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HydeNobuyuki
06-12-2008, 07:46 PM
Reposted from my Blog:


Cut Together Video: http://www.livevideo.com/video/C63BE290C0FE4577A17902ADA8D74CD6/japan-first-ride-wakayama.aspx

Video Music Courtesy of the PodSafe Music Network.
Artist Attribution:
http://music.podshow.com/music/listeners/artistdetails.php?BandHash=bcd26803274d04274d5d253 b2a9f7fff
Dashboard Confessional - Hands Down
http://music.podshow.com/music/listeners/artistdetails.php?BandHash=e7b87a225ee98c09bc1357e 44561b39a
Wintersleep - Drunk on Aluminum
http://music.podshow.com/music/listeners/artistdetails.php?BandHash=90ecb5d7d62a9c48c24066c 7b952f308
Tricky - Evolution Revolution Love

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-15.08.39CA393873.JPG.jpg_595.jpg
Wakayama Ride - 2008 May 21 - 2008年5月21日

Prologue
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
it's strange my fingers range from numb to hurt

thumbs hurt a lot
index fingers hurt a bit
middle fingers are a little numb and a little hurt
ring fingers are numb
and pinky fingers are really numb

hurt i can understand, but numbness is a little worrysome

But my first long (7.5 hours) ride in 2 years and in a new country, Japan.

Part 1
^^^^^^^^^^^
I set out for my first *real* ride in Japan.

Although, unlike DNA, I didn't have the luxury of local guides nor the
luxury of not having to worry about being home in the evening and at work
the next day.... However, after riding my bike home from the shop (finally
getting my NANIWA --aka Osaka-- license plate) on the thursday, I set out
on the following Wednesday for Wakayama... the luring mountainous hairpin
filled supposed paradise for bikers.

For those who dont know any Japanese, the YAMA in Wakayama means mountain.
It is truly a prefecture (like province but smaller) completely covered
in mountains.

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-09.14.45CA393861.JPG.jpg_595.jpg
"Packing for the trip"

So, the night before I started doing some planning with my mapple (bike
oriented regional map book) and the NAVITime Navigation mapping/routing
website. Armed with these two resources and a recommendation from an
online forum, I plotted a route from home through the mountains of
wakayama to a place called koyasan. From koyasan, a highly recommended
skyline highway, and loop around back up another mountain highway back to
koyasan where I could take a variety of routes north again back to Osaka.

Now, the timing of this was critical...
This week was the ONLY feasible week for me to go on a ride since after
this time I won't have any free time until June 12th (when the rainy
monsoon typhoon season would likely start). Plus, I can't really ride on
ANY day I have to work since the probability of me getting horrifically
lost is just WAY too high making the chance of me being late or missing
work FAR TOO great =(

Plus of course after the rainy season is the scorchingly hot summer
season.... hot, humid, 35-48C weather :(

Furthermore, of the two days off in this week, Wednesday was supposed to
be nice with 23C weather and Thursday was to be getting cloudier and
moving towards rain (although about the same temperature).

So, the day was set and the route was plotted.

My first Japanese Riding (outside the city) adventure was about to begin!!

Part 2
^^^^^^^^^^^
10:00am

My first task would be to find the gas station...
Luckily, I've managed to plot a gas station on my route
but with the huge number of the one ways streets and places where you can't cross roads because they have traffic diversion

My first time getting gasoline was surprisingly easy.
In Japan almost all the gas stations are full service and unlike in Canada, the people working there actually know how to pump gas for motorcycles.

If you visit Japan, all you really need is
"Regular mantan" or "High-Oc mantan"
Japan has only really two octanes...
"mantan" means to fill it up all the way

Finally, they will ask if you want to pay by cash or card.

Now that I was fully gassed up at the overly expensive 165 per litre,
I was ready to tackle the Osaka streets of anti-navigational horror

In the first 10 minutes after leaving the gas station I made several wrong turns... the biggest problem with navigation is the lack street names and signage. Streets only have names if they are really big roads... and even then, the street isn't necessarily marked with its name. Instead, navigation is given using Intersection names. That might good except you can't always see the intersection names until it's too late or the intersection may not even be marked. Dru suggested that our best bet is just to memorize your area.

Actually, in my route planning I used distances between intersections and the configurations of the intersection where i need to turn (like roughly if the turn is shallow, steep, and what cross streets go through it) and this saved me several times.

11:15am

Even though I followed my directions, and managed to double back everytime however I STILL managed to find myself lost eventually hitting a river area. Several elderly people seem to be farming even though we were still in the city.

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-11.11.44CA393862.JPG.jpg_595.jpg (You can see the farmers here... on the outskirts of Osaka City Proper)

After 2 hours I finally made it out of the city.

I was really surprised that so many of the speed limits are really slow like 40 and 50kph! However, out of the city the traffic started to tie down and the speeds finally started to pick up.

A great sense of relief and that sense of mobility and freedom that I had longed for since leaving riding and my home country 2 years earlier, began to grow as I headed down the highway.

Off in the distance I spotted a VERY odd site and my renewed sense of adventure also began to return.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r245/hydenobuyuki/DSC00200.jpg
"Tondabayashi PL Peace Tower"
(Note this picture is not mine)


Crossing Over
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This area is filled with mountains... hell, wakayama --my destination prefecture (like a province)-- and koyasan --my destination-- both have the character for mountain right in them.
For those of you not familiar with how Japanese works, they have borrowed chinese-like characters they fit into the language... yama and san both mean mountain in this case and use the same character.

So, to get from my home prefecture, Osaka, into Wakayama, I have to go through a rather daunting tunnel.

Now, keeping in mind my previous bike was a ZZR250 that weight perhaps 320lbs and my current ZZR400 weights probably about 450lbs...
I was concerned about the winds pushing my bike laterally, but the new bike wouldn't have it...
She stuck to the road not letting those japanese gods of wind and thunder have their way.

However, this tunnel was something else.

In Vancouver, we've all been through the George Massey Tunnel countless times... and in comparison that tunnel is miniscule.

Upon entering the tunnel, it started to strike me... I couldn't see the exit and it was rapidly getting VERY dark.

Since I use an orange high-contrast visor I also wear sunglasses... however, there is no where near as much lighting in this tunnel as the George Massey Tunnel.

This tunnel spans a few kilometers and quickly became extremely disorienting. A very narrow tunnel where I can't see and with no dividing to "protect" me from oncoming traffic ended up being my least favourite part of the ride; even worse than stop and go traffic.

However, once I made it through the long night of a tunnel, I would find my self in Wakayama... the kind of place that is 99% mountains and in the dreams of most of the riders in the region.

Of course, not wanting to take on some adventure on an empty stomach, I made a pit stop at the teenager filled yet not smokey McDs.

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-12.59.16CA393864.JPG.jpg_595.jpg "McD in Hashimoto"

Finally, it was on to the twisty stuff.

Now, keeping in mind I hadn't ridden in 2 years and I had promised my girlfriend that I'd take it easy in the mountains...
It took a REALLY REALLY long time to get through the twisty mountain paths to my destination.

On the bright side I got lost much less in this leg of the trip (away from the cities).

I started out in 1st or 2nd, still unsure of my new bike's powerband and I couldn't help but recall riding back in Canada with
no hesitation revving the bike up or counting on the little 250cc engine to control my speed with ease.
On my new bike, however, it was time to start getting to know her... a little wining and dining if you will...
a process that took far longer than I had anticipated

New Destination
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Koyasan wasn't really supposed to be my final destination for the outward bound portion of my trip; I had hoped to have taken the
supposedly beautiful 371 Skyline Highway from there, looped around like a little duffy loop but it had taken so long just to get out of the city that I had to head back.

So, Koyasan, a quiet mountain village with tons of temples nestled into the mountains became my last rally point before making the return journey.

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-14.16.20CA393868.JPG.jpg_595.jpg
http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-14.18.08CA393870.JPG.jpg_595.jpg "Koyasan"

Now, back in the twisty mountain path on my new journey home.

By this point, I was much more comfortable being on a bike again in the twisties... but a far cry from when I was riding every day rain or shine with nearly daily jaunts up the mountains on the north shore (vancouver)

This time, being behind another vehicle allowed me to set my pace much faster...



The worst part about Japanese Mountain roads are that every corner is blind with only big mirrors that are hard to see anything in.... and everyone from the granny driver, GIANT tour buses, to the street/mountain racer will cut almost EVERY apex crossing over into my side of the rode. Many many times, a giant bus or some car would come flying around the corner nearly hitting me as they drove me almost off the rode.

http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-13.44.42CA393866.JPG.jpg_595.jpg "Mountain Path"

You know, they say that these mountain paths don't have anywhere where the guardrails aren't scratched up from car grinding them....

I don't know how true that is, but it is certainly easy to find scratched up railings here


http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200805-Kansai/20080521-wakayamaride/2008-05-21-13.29.48CA393865.JPG.jpg_595.jpg "Mountain Path Guard Rail"

Once you get over the threat of flying cagers, you can really start to enjoy the mountain scenery, the still silence (when you've pulled over and turned the engine off), the nice twisting paths.

Furthermore, unlike what I might see near Vancouver, the twists are continuous; there are no straightaway on this stretch longer than about 80 meters?

Finally oddly enough, this leg took about 60% of the time it did going in.

The route home I recorded most of it and used it when cutting together the video.

Not surprisingly, I got horribly lost even before leaving Wakayama Prefecture...
several map checks plus mobile phone GPS checks later, I was finally on my way back.
The tunnel was no better this time around except I knew what to expect this time.... still disorienting though.

Once I emerged from the tunnel, I found myself back in my home prefecture, but still a long ways from home.

Not surprisingly, I got lost several several times more and stuck in stop and go traffic...
but I figured as long as I am headed in the right direction I should be okay...

But the funny thing about Japanese roads is that they are not straight and you can start heading in a completely other direction before you know it.

Stuck in traffic, I rarely split lanes or filtered through traffic... the combination of still trying to get used to a heavy sport touring bike and paranoia
about police ticketing me for crossing a line kept me waiting in the hot hot heat and stop and go traffic. Of course, I don't doubt that in time I will be
filtering with the rest of the bikes since cagers would probably expect that.

Final thoughts on my ride...

I was great to be on a bike again... but it is something I need to devote an entire day to.
I cannot go for a ride on a day I work since the risk of getting horrifically lost is too high and I would be late for work.
People generally have poor spatial awareness... while cagers are more used to bikes being around them, they will drive
all over the place without concern for how much space is needed.
Kosoku, raised toll expressways are ridiculously expensive but don't always save you time.
Gasoline has risen to about 178 for regular and is expected rise again next month...
GPS Navigation is really expensive but since we get lost SOOO easily is very popular


but in the end, it's worth it.

J_Scott
06-12-2008, 08:42 PM
Back in the saddle Derek, Good to see! :D

DNAspark99
06-12-2008, 09:44 PM
おめでとう!
おもろいこと

damn I scheme a little bit more every day on how to get back there!

I miss those mountain roads, BC really is bland in comparison. If it makes you feel any better our gasoline prices are doing a similar dance... but at least over there you get the full service to make it seem more worthwhile :p

I had fully meant to mention in my ride report about the constant threat of having a bus swing around a corner, cutting halfway into your lane... that added some extra fun to the rides for sure :p
And the tunnels... in Tokyo I was in one tunnel for a couple minutes - and we were easily doing 180+ - that twisted and turned every which way, seemingly with no end in sight... definitely a bit disorientating!

And I love how almost no one in Japan knows where they're going or where anything is outside of their immediate area. It made finding our way that much more fun :) I'm sure you'll figure out the main routes soon enough tho! Infact I expect no less...so next time YOU can be the 'tour guide' and navigate us from one end of the island to the other, and back! See you in april :p

*edit*: oh, and Wakayama is beautiful... loved it, though my experience was limited to the city of Tanabe... lots of fun, being out of the big cities...


あばよ

Maverik
06-12-2008, 10:31 PM
Nice report.

When I was a college student, I had a part time job at a rent a car company. I went to deliver a station wagon on a loader to near Koyasan. The road was called Ryujin (dragon-god) Skyline, I had a lot of fun driving that road even on a truck! Not sure if you covered that, it connects from Koyasan towards south, then it changes its name then eventually reaches Pacific Ocean. I guess the name 'dragon' has something to do with twisties, just like Deals Gap in the USA.

I really miss those round mirrors on blind intersections and curves, I don't know why we don't have them around here.

Now, broken white line means passing permitted? I always wondered why it's broken white even in blind curves.

It's a shame you ended up having lunch at McD. One of the good things about riding/traveling in Japan is local foods, I guess it's true pretty much everywhere 'old world', while here food generally sucks as you go out of no where.

Here, 87 gas is hovering around 1.45/L, 91 is probably close to 1.60/L so you're not paying too much more there. South of the border, the cheapest gas around Bellingham is US$4.20/gal ($1.10/L). I don't understand why people still go riding north of the border.

When you're in Vancouver, have you ever gotten lost?

HydeNobuyuki
06-12-2008, 10:32 PM
right after posting up that video/blog ride report, I went for another ride.
Can't believe after after nearly a month, it's still only my 3rd ride on the bike...

This I took the kosoku toll expressway north out of Osaka and towards Kobe.

9$ to go 20 something kilometers to Ashiya (The Beverley Hills of Japan) but it got me there pretty quickly.

The above ride took 2 hours just to leave the city limits;
This time around since I was heading NorthWest, I could take the expressway and take only about 5 minutes to get out of the City proper.

From Ashiya, I could head north into the mountains...
In the past I really wanted to go to those mountains (Rokko San) but could never find the cablecar to get up there and ended up on Rokko Island instead.

Island vs Mountain... big difference!

I was surprised how steep and how tight the switchbacks were today...
Reminded me a little of Mt Baker but with less traffic, MUCH greener, and no annoying gravel.

Although somewhat concern are they big spike looking things in the middle of the road to dissuade drivers from driving over the centre line in some places... but i'd imagine hitting one of those with a bike would be pretty nasty

HydeNobuyuki
06-12-2008, 10:39 PM
@Scotty... bout time, eh!
us both riding at the same time... only catch was we had to be in different continents... well i'm too slow to ride in a group with you anyways ;p

@Maverick

The skylines are supposed to be beautiful highways...
I had to stop just short of something similar heading up the mountains since I didn't want to pay even more tolls.

local food? well, since i live here i get that...
but in that case, mcD was right there and my bladder was screaming at me to pull over.

Broken White lines = maybe they are cheap on paint? You can pass if you need to.

Solid White lines (Japan only.. NOT canada) you can cross over them if you have to but it's strongly discourage...

Yellow lines = Very strongly discouraged from crossing.... you can still pass people as long as you don't cross over the yellow line...

if it's solid, then it's go to jail, get a lot of points on your license, hefty fines, mandatory expensive safety school, etc...

I luckily filled up with Gas today at 172/L for regular.
$4.20?! wow, it was only $4.05 last week in Hawai'i

In Vancouver, no I don't typically get lost...

in vancouver we have a mountain sense....
we can sense where the mountains are... and that gives us a sense of which way is north and which way we are going....

in japan, it's a whole other ballgame of navigational nightmares ;p

DNAspark99
06-12-2008, 11:06 PM
local food? well, since i live here i get that...
but in that case, mcD was right there and my bladder was screaming at me to pull over.


yeah RIGHT! you gotta be the only guy in all of Japan who doesn't like to eat seafood! :p

..and crossing yellow lines == jailtime? damn, I'm glad no one could (or tried to) explain that while I was riding there... lol... we probably violated all the major traffic laws... we'd STILL be locked up!

Maverik
06-12-2008, 11:08 PM
I don't think I paid more than $10 for my truck for toll at Ryujin Skyline, it should be cheaper for bikes. It's a lot more worth than $9 Hanshin Kosoku to Ashiya, IMO.

Local food...no, I'm not talking about 'Japanese' food, but something like Wakayama food. They consider themselves they have different dialect and food from Osaka and neighboring regions. If you browse any of bike forums there, they love to talk about food, while on bcsb, I'm the only one who does....

The gas prices had jumped since last week both in Canada and US, I think I saw $4.10/gal in Bellingham last week as well. I'm quite surprised that gas in Hawaii isn't that expensive than I thought, at least a lot cheaper than here or California: http://www.washingtongasprices.com/Price_By_County.aspx?state=WA&c=usa

I don't really get lost most places in Japan or Canada, I was wondering if you're not simply good at directions. When I rarely do, it's usually during night or cloudy/rainy.

OK, time to fill up my tank tomorrow, I'm off to Mt. Baker. I'm quite surprised that you say Rokkosan road is better than Mt. Baker??

HydeNobuyuki
06-12-2008, 11:44 PM
@DNA

well, jailtime is a bit harsh... but as a foreigner it wouldn't surprise me if they locked us up for 28 days with out pressing any charges or allowing us to see a lawyer... with constant interrogation and coersion to sign some sort of confession and get us kicked out of the country.

Although the actual odds of that are slim unless you are drinking or fighting.

Today people typically were driving 20-30kph over the limit and the police largely did nothing... but being a bike amidst the car would give them reason enough to target me for the ticket.

People wander all over the lines no matter what colour they are and whether they're solid or not.. and generally, police won't do anything... but sometimes they will... i don't want to take any chances considering my work permit expired on wednesday and I'm currently waiting for my new one (hence the time off to actually go riding... and to shikoku leaving tonight)

@Maverick

Near Osaka, the toll was 700 yen when I entered the hanshin kosoku and another 700 on my return.

In Ashiya, the toll to exit/enter was 200 yen.

I'd love to check out the wakayama skylines but might need to make that a multiday trip riding around wakayama and mie

Today, I only had a few hours so didn't want to spend endless hours just trying to get out of the city... while expensive, the expressway was a fast option.

To get to Koyasan last time took me 4 hours....
Although hopefully in the future, I can cut that time down and not have to worry about times.... today however, i have to catch a ferry tonight for shikoku which needs some planning, mapping, etc...


oh, that kind of local food... yeah...
i'm definitely setting out to do that this weekend in shikoku.

hopefully in the future, i'll have time to do that in many regions

i'm not really the getting lost kind of person in Canada... but we have a LOT more signage in Canada. When you are on the highway though, it's pretty easy here... it's just trying to get through the city that is extremely problematic....

Mt Baker is good and all; just when I went to baker there were tons of gravel in the hairpins and we were sliding around a bit.

Rokko San area right before the toll Royu芦有 Drive Way(http://www.royu.co.jp/)
http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200806-Kansai/20080613-RokkoRide/2008-06-13-14.03.51CA393961.JPG.jpg_595.jpg
http://media.derekwallace.com/cache/2008/200806-Kansai/20080613-RokkoRide/2008-06-13-14.04.29CA393962.JPG.jpg_595.jpg
http://media.derekwallace.com/2008/200806-Kansai/20080613-RokkoRide/image/595/2008-06-13-14.05.20CA393963.JPG.jpg

Maverik
06-13-2008, 12:07 AM
I know many people gladly pay toll on expressway there, not only because they save time, but also save them self of hassles of getting lost. I've never used navigation system, but I can imagine it's kinda difficult to drive with.

I went to Takamatsu in Kagawa-ken (in Shikoku, I'm sure you know), just for udon, and glad I did. Their udon is totally different from rest of udon in Japan. The texture is so chewy. They have much more udon stands than ramen places. It's a 'must' experience when you're in Kagawa-ken (their historic name is Sanuki, I"m sure you've heard of Sanuki udon). Have a good ride.

HydeNobuyuki
06-13-2008, 12:24 AM
Yeah, the expressways are much easier and faster except that you have to know where the exits and entrances are since they are not always in the same place.
(entrance vs exit or which direction of the highway to get onto)

yeah, i'm taking the night ferry tonight to matsuyama, then renting a car and driving across shikoku to takamatsu and other areas in kagawa.
We've even signed up for one of the many make your own sanuki udon courses

tanoshimi!

I'd love to ride through shikoku... or even bicycle...
but I don't want to take passengers and I only have a mamachari...

so this time around it'll be a rental car with navi.
navi in japan is 4th generation or something like that, so apparently they're pretty decent.... I just don't like the built in TV Tuners that people watch while driving (no matter what the warning says, you know people will still do it)

I was thinking about getting a Garmin Zumo... people on gaijinriders seem to like it except only the japanese version will give you turn-by-turn instructions (whereas the american version is still good for mapping, but not turn-by-turn instructions since the basemap is for a different region)
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r245/hydenobuyuki/garmin_zumo550_front300.jpg