GSP Goes to MotoGP: A Trip Report

[GSP]

We now interrupt your regular programming for a post about riding bikes. I hope that some of you enjoy coming along for the ride.

Day 1

Start: Chilliwack, BC
End: Condon, OR
Mileage: 960km

And so it begins...

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84305669-M.jpg

Our mission was to attend the MotoGP race at Laguna Seca and take in numerous quality roads along the way. My riding partner, Glenn, lives in Castlegar, so we agreed to meet in Twisp at 11am on the Monday before the races. I've ridden tens of thousands of kilometres with Glenn--our riding styles are similar and with the long days ahead, that would make things a whole lot easier. Glenn used to own the VFR I ride now. It's been a very reliable bike--except for the time it broke down at the track the last time it was ridden to Laguna Seca. It was the dreaded Honda regulator/rectifier failure and the current R/R was at the same mileage that killed the first one...

I rolled out of Chilliwack around 7am and made my way to Sumas. After an uneventful border crossing, I followed Hwy 9 south and turned east on 20. Traffic was light on the North Cascades Hwy--not a bad way to start a trip! A pic near WA Pass:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84305767-M.jpg

I reached Twisp right on time. It was already hot, and would remain so for the remainder of the trip. I'm sure we rode through temperatures of 100 degrees during part of every day of the trip. How hot was it? This was once the site of a waterfall far bigger than Niagara Falls (we didn't see any honeymooners):

Dry Falls:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84305989-M.jpg

A little further down the road, we stopped in a shady spot above Sun Lakes State Park and met John. John was out for a spin on his recumbent bicycle (he was sneaking a few cigarettes away from the family). After a brief discussion, he offered to let Glenn try the bike. I scrambled for my camera in hopes of catching a crash (just so you don't think I'm a bad person--I was hoping that the injuries sustained wouldn't be serious enough to disrupt my trip :laughing), but he made it around the turn-out without incident.

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84306425-M.jpg

We felt there was time to add some mileage to our route and take in some of northern Oregon's roads, so we worked our way towards SE Washington and crossed into Oregon at Umatilla. After the drone through the orchards and grain fields of central WA, it was good to ride some good roads again. Unfortunately, by the time we got to Heppner, it was getting dark. This is the second time we'd been caught in the same area at night, and I really, really missed the big PIAA lights I used to have mounted on my previous bike. The final 40 miles were some of the longest I'd ridden--I vow to come back here and ride the same route during daylight hours, as it promises to be spectacular. A late evening pic of Glenn's Triumph Daytona 955i:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85250203-M-1.jpg

We got to the Condon Motel at 10am. The owner was just locking up the office, but she'd already taped the key to the door in anticipation of our late arrival.

[rivet]

:coffee .........Great pics.

those white VFR's clean up pretty nice :D

[Tengu]

Almost didnt notice you were gone.:laughing

Whats in Condon? :devillook . . . . How were your border guard friends?

And come out Wednesday!

[counter_strike]

what happened on Day 2,3,4...? keep them coming please :)

[tractor]

what happened on Day 2,3,4...? keep them coming please :)

Hey GSP , Whenyou got to John Day you were in an area with many roads some even twistier , I go down into that area for a week every year and there are some amazing roads, there is a map the locals put out of all the roads (most not on a regular map) in that area for motorcyclists. You were Thaaaat close to motorcycle Nirvana.
If you go from John Day to halfway there is a road called Hells canyon going north to Joseph, awesome. Enterprise to Lewiston is incredible, Fossil has good roads, and so on. that is an awesome area.

[silverD]

Hey GSP , Whenyou got to John Day you were in an area with many roads some even twistier , I go down into that area for a week every year and there are some amazing roads, there is a map the locals put out of all the roads (most not on a regular map) in that area for motorcyclists. You were Thaaaat close to motorcycle Nirvana.
If you go from John Day to halfway there is a road called Hells canyon going north to Joseph, awesome. Enterprise to Lewiston is incredible, Fossil has good roads, and so on. that is an awesome area.
My neighbour speaks highly of this area as well, we need to talk..., well you talk, I'll listen and take notes :laughing

[GSP]

Hey GSP , Whenyou got to John Day you were in an area with many roads some even twistier , I go down into that area for a week every year and there are some amazing roads, there is a map the locals put out of all the roads (most not on a regular map) in that area for motorcyclists. You were Thaaaat close to motorcycle Nirvana.
If you go from John Day to halfway there is a road called Hells canyon going north to Joseph, awesome. Enterprise to Lewiston is incredible, Fossil has good roads, and so on. that is an awesome area.

I've done trips through there in each of the past 3 years. Unfortunately, I keep getting caught on that Heppner-Condon road in the dark. :laughing We would have spent more time if there was more time to spend.

I didn't know about the map, though. Thanks for the tip. We did hit a few more OR roads on the way back, but not the Rattlesnake Grade or Hells Canyon this time. I'd love to spend a week in that area (including some of the routes in Idaho/Montana) when it's a little cooler, but my schedule doesn't permit it.

[scooter]

Good stuff Brent.

Yeah the long stretch along the grain fields in Eastern Washington are a little tedious. Thanks for the info on Hwy 395.

Tractor

I concur the area has some great roads. I was in Heppner this year completing a 3500km ride. I picked up that map you are talking about.Definatly wanting to take in more of the area. Very different terrain with few trees in some areas and lots of elevation changes. Not a lot of population in those areas. Motorcycling Nirvana

Keep it coming Brent.

[GSP]

Here's the full Day 2:

Day 2
Start: Condon, OR
End: Carson City, NV
Mileage: 1000km

The lone gas station on Condon opens at 5am, so there were no worries about getting gas before leaving. Despite more diplacement and horsepower, Glenn's Triumph gets significantly better mileage than my VFR. I'm sure the aerodynamics of my trusty GIVI bags don't help, but the disparity between our odometers revealed that my mileage was even worse than I'd first believed. At least it burns regular. :rolleyes

North-central Oregon is full of valleys and canyons. A typical ride in Oregon involves winding up (or down) valleys or canyons to a high plain, followed by more winding up or down as the terrain dictates. Traffic is light. So is law enforcement. This is a good thing, as some of Oregon's traffic laws assign rather stiff penalties to those choosing to disobey the low speed limits. Luckily, the one police car we passed early that morning must have had his mind on steak & eggs somewhere up the road.

Typical Oregon road (Hwy 19):
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84311742-M.jpg

After a typical filling American breakfast in John Day, we continued south on Hwy 395. Unlike many of the main routes in BC, the Oregonians have yet to blast all the corners out of the road, so the first 40 miles or so was good riding. However, this was to be the last taste of the twisties for some time. Actually, this was to the last taste of many things for some time--there isn't much along Hwy 395 in south-central Oregon. Next town: Wagontire. Population: 2.

You like straights? 395 has got 'em. The temptation to squeeze that last bit of top speed from your bike is tempered by the ever-present vultures circling overhead.

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84311931-M-1.jpg

This is a different kind of riding; it's not about the twisties, but about drinking in the vast landscape. I enjoy it, but can see how it wouldn't appeal to everyone. The problem I have is the inability to take pictures that capture the scale of what you see in person--I guess that's why we travel these roads to begin with.

Albert Lake (the escarpment rising out of the lake in the distance is ~2000ft high)
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84314904-M.jpg
Looking across Albert Lake:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85277844-M-1.jpg

South of Lakeview, OR, there is a pleasant break from the straight roads as you cross over Cedar Pass to Cedarville, CA. But there was construction...and it's too damn hot to wait for pilot cars!!! I stopped for gas while Glenn got a head start cooling himself in the air-conditioned comfort of a local restaurant.

South of Cedarville is one of my favourite middle-of-nowhere roads: the road to Gerlach, Nevada (site of the Burning Man festival, and sacred ground for endurance riders). I wanted to try the famous ravioli at Bruno's, but I was still full from the recent meal in Cedarville. There is a section of twisty road north of Gerlach, but it has caught out more experienced riders than I, so we kept a reasaonable pace. I don't know that there are good places to crash, but some are better than others--it'd be a *long* wait for medical attention out there.

Train tracks running out across the Playa at Gerlach:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84315110-M-1.jpg

Glenn north of Nixon, NV, on the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84315487-M.jpg

Yours truly:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84315666-M.jpg

More high desert scenery:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84315776-M.jpg

We gassed up in Fernley for the final push to our motel in Carson City. As we enjoyed a healthy truck stop snack in the parking lot, the wind (always strong out here, it would seem) intensified, blowing a great deal of dust. The clouds above were doing there best to dump rain on us, but it was evaporating before it hit the ground. The end result was some rather impressive colouring:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85282286-M-1.jpg

We rode into Carson City under the cover of darkness to our room at a Motel 6. I was on the wrong side of the Motel 6 sign and insisting to the desk clerk at the wrong motel that I did indeed have a reservation. Oops.

With a shorter day planned for Wednesday, we were able to enjoy a late dinner and a few beers.

Next: Chasing gold in the Sierras

[baboon's ass]

beautiful pics dood!

[canuck75]

nice pics. glad you had a good time. you definately took a more scenic route than we did. lookin forward to seein' the rest of your pics.

[ninja911]

beautiful pics, keep em coming

[Mighty Kentor]

Good stuff Brent, can't wait to read more.

[SpideRider]

I echo everyone else's anticipation at further photos and stories. :thumbup

[tackle_me_2]

Wow, such great pics. Thanks for posting them! :)

[tractor]

My neighbour speaks highly of this area as well, we need to talk..., well you talk, I'll listen and take notes :laughing
Next time I am on a ride with you i will explain it more. I believe i have been on a couple of ST Nicks rides with you. What do you ride is it the V-Strom or are the one on the CBR100xx. I will be going back next June but would go for a trip in September if I can get away from kids hockey long enough. I got instructions on this area from some guys from Portland, it is an unbelievable area and the towns are straight out of the 50's. I go with my brother (ST1100) and a buddy who usually rides a BMW k1200, this year he rode an R1200GS and really liked it. Either way it is a very special area for bikes.

[GSP]

Day 3

Start: Carson City
End: Walker
Mileage: 400km

The long push on the first two days was designed to leave a little more riding time for this day. My understanding was that these passes have some tight spots, so average speeds would be low. Little did we know…

The day started with yet another filling American breakfast--my heart will certainly be remembering these trips when I get older—before a quick ride down 395 to the start of the climb to the first pass of the day. At least it would have been a quick ride if not for the endless strip mall/big box store developments along this stretch of 395. I don’t think we hit one green light all morning. Needless to say, it was already hot. Sitting at traffic lights isn’t my preferred riding environment. But enough with the bitching…this turned out to be one of the most enjoyable days I’ve spent on a bike.

As we turned onto the road to Monitor Pass, the road immediately curled into a rock cut. It just kept curling ever-upwards until the top of the pass at 8314 ft.

Here we are partway up the road to Monitor Pass. All three of the passes we rode on this day were blessed with signage dissuading those driving large (slow) RV’s from using the roads.
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84451414-M.jpg

Next up: Ebbets Pass

Ebbets had me giggling like a school girl. As the corners became tighter and tighter and the grades steeper and steeper, the centre line disappeared altogether. This road is popular with cyclists, and the fitness lever attained by those riding these altitudes and grades must be incredible if their hearts don’t explode first.

The pictures really don’t do this road justice. It is very steep and not for the faint of heart. Mistakes here will be punished harshly.

Typical tight turn on Ebbets:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84451479-M.jpg
It just goes on…
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84451659-M.jpg
And on….
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84451831-M.jpg
Hmmm, maybe the cows aren’t allowed to cross the pass?
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84451713-M.jpg

These roads don’t get used in the winter, so the pavement quality remains good. Also, the very nature of the higher parts of these passes makes them rather inefficient as travel routes, so traffic tends to be light. Many parts of the road are like a roller-coaster; the engineers just laid the road over top of the existing topography rather than blasting through it. This road would be a riot on a motard!!

[GSP]

Day 3 cont'd:

Next up: Sonora Pass

It was brutally hot as we made the short ride over to the bottom of the road over Sonora Pass. We passed through a few towns including Sonora. Sonora is a pretty town—maybe a touch too “touristy” with too much traffic, but why bitch about that when you’re a tourist? Lunch at the Rattlesnake Grill was excellent, and it was time to start climbing. Traffic wasn’t nearly as light on the western side of the mountains, but it began to thin at higher elevations. The signage probably helps:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85623784-M-1.jpg

More road pics:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85626227-M-1.jpg
The out-of-focus sign says “9624 ft”:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84452211-M-1.jpg
Another wild roller-coaster ride down the east side of the pass:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84453606-M-1.jpg
Scenic shot at the bottom of the pass (taken rather close to the “No Stopping Anytime” signs posted here—there is a US Marine Corps Winter Warfare Training Centre on the other side of the highway. We resisted any temptation to wave the Quran and burn US flags):
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/85627861-M-1.jpg

We settled in for the night in the town of Walker at the Walker Motel. Many of these little motels now have wireless internet, but we were without a computer. After a burger and *real* ice cream shake at the Walker Burger, it was time for some sleep.

Glenn wondering why we’re booked at the Walker Motel when the motel across the street has a pool for only one dollar more:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84453493-M.jpg

The answer: having been stuck on the road looking at endless “no vacancy” signs, I tried to book everything in advance this time. Unfortunately, not every little motel in every little town has a web presence, but that’s changing fast.

[scooter]

Oh now its getting good.!

I was a little concerned about the straight streches in the earlier photo's.

Monterey here we come.

Brent, Colins been asking for you in Loadedpoloza IV.

[mikeelliot]

Cool.
Saw you on Hwy1 west bound west of No 3 rd at about 6pm...hahaha

White VFR with a Yellow lid, must have been you!

[heisenberg9]

Wow! Your photos really give a sense of being there™ and the understanding with the motorcyclist's gestalt.

I'm gonna grab my wife now, pull her to the monitor and say "Look, this is what it's all about!!"

Gotta do Laguna Seca before I turn into a geezer!






Wait I am a geezer.

[heisenberg9]

Ohhhh your "Dry Falls" photo is remarkable!

[greenboy]

Brent, sweet pics. Keep 'em coming, more more!

[NapoleanInRags]

Very nice! The bike looks like it can do another 180K!

: popcorn

[Hiroki]

Asomwe trip thanks for teh commentary and wicked pics!!!!!!
:thumbup

[Vansterdam]

in for the rest of the pics

[jeckyll]

Brent: I always like your trip reports.

Looking really good so far! That road through the mountains looks amazing!

[SpideRider]

How do you convince the wife to let you leave for these trips every year? :) I need some pointers...

[GSP]

Day 4 Walker-Salinas

Start: Walker, CA
End: Salinas, CA
Mileage: 550km

The original plan for Thursday had involved a ride over Tioga Pass to Yosemite Park. However, since we’d done that pass before, we opted to ride Sonora Pass again. The only downside would be missing out on a meal at the Mobil gas station in Lee Vining. Yes, it’s just a gas station café, but the food is incredible.

Not that it would be a hardship to ride Sonora Pass again! We left good and early with the hope of missing out on the hottest part of the day when crossing the central part of California.

Just another shitty day of riding in the Sierras:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84453633-M.jpg
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84453690-M.jpg

Following a quick breakfast at the Pine Cone Café, we started our journey across the rolling Sierra foothills and the flat valley that runs down the centre of California. To make things more interesting, I decided we should stick to the back roads. A good plan in theory, but it didn’t work out too well in practice. I made a couple of wrong turns (at the least we backtracked on a good section of road!) and then there was the problem with the maps and the signs. The rather infrequent signage on these back roads didn’t include the locations on my trusty AAA maps; the locations shown on the map weren’t on the signage. After asking several people for directions, there we were: tending to a flat tire within site of Hwy 99 south of Modesto. At least there was shade, and a well-stocked tire repair kit.

Free air. Remember when every gas station had free air? It’s not so much that you have to pay for it—I know most stations no longer have garages (and the ever-present compressor) on site, but shouldn’t it work if you have to pay for it? Aaarrrggghhh!! After visiting a couple of stations, I finally found an air hose that would seal properly on the bike and got the rear tire back up to proper pressure. After 20 miles on the highway and a pressure check, we resumed our regular pace.

It’s a small world after all. We stopped for gas and fluids at Los Banos, and Glenn’s boss (also from Castlegar) walked across the lot to greet us. Bill was riding his 916 on a tour organized by Revoluzione out of Calgary.

We were getting close to our hotel (and pool!), so we decided to push on. Traffic was moving at a steady 20-25 mph over the limit, so our progress was swift. Many of the hillsides along the road were blackened by fire, and one of the hillsides was on fire. It hadn’t spread far, but the wind was strong. Oh well, not much of value to burn on that stretch.

As we had grown tired of the 100 degree+ weather, it was a relief to find that as we crested the Diablo Range and dropped into the valley that we’d follow to Salinas, the temperature dropped about 20 degrees. Perfect!

We checked in at the Motel 6 in Salinas, tested the pool, and went out for some dinner (we took a cab to give ourselves a break from the bikes). At an average of $50/night, the price was right on an event weekend—Salinas was also hosting a major rodeo on MotoGP weekend.

[nursebiker69]

Fantastic pictures. Did you see any cars???

[GSP]

Fantastic pictures. Did you see any cars???

Thankfully, not too many on the passes. Also, many of the drivers would pull to the side at the first opportunity to let us through.

[Triplepete]

California IS motorcycle heaven! Looks like an awesome trip as usual Brent - reminds me of my Cali trip in reverse almost.

Shit. I wish I could have been there with you guys. Might be doing Hell's Canyon the weekend of the 12th - 4 dayer.

[GSP]

Days 5

Friday would be our first day at the track. We got up early so as to have some time to utilize our paddock passes before things became too busy. The “motorcycle only” entrance was on the Salinas side of Laguna Seca, so it didn’t take long to get in. We had MC parking passes, so we were able to use a paved lot about 30 sec from the track—much better than parking out in the dirt. My action shots didn’t turn out very well, so I won’t post any here. Besides, there plenty of professional photos out there that detail the racing action.

The MotoGP bikes are awesome to see and hear in person. Unfortunately, the only thing the paddock passes allowed you to see were the backs of the MotoGP garages. On a more positive note, traveling through the paddock made it easier to get around the crowds, and the AMA teams had the usual assortment of bike posters available for wallpapering the garage at home.

The MotoCysz bike was there—I don’t know if they’ll ever find the money to produce something worthy of running in MotoGP, but it’s certainly full of non-conventional ideas.

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84454749-M.jpg
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84454812-M-1.jpg
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84454920-M.jpg

Headed for a MotoGP grid in the near future? If some tire is good, more must be better:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84454703-M.jpg

We left mid-afternoon for the comfort of the swimming pool before riding over to Monterrey for dinner at Fisherman’s Wharf.

[ridenaked]

wicked pics, thanks for sharing your trip !

[GSP]

Day 6: Prophecy Revealed

I went out to the track around lunch time on Saturday. My plan was to watch MotoGP qualifying, the Formula Extreme race and the AMA Superbike race. Glenn had the good sense to recommend buying a flat of H2O to bring to the track and that was a good idea—with water selling at $4 per bottle, it made sense to buy a case of 30 bottles for the same price.

Following the FX race, I took another trip through the paddock area and got a picture of Saint Nick’s favourite motorcycle(trivia: Who put a 500cc two-stroke on pole in the MotoGP class for the last time?):
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84454422-M.jpg

Despite a re-pave, Laguna Seca was very bumpy and giving the MotoGP riders fits as they struggled to set up their bikes. Pole went to Chris Vermuelen, who had won both World Superbike races at Laguna a couple of years earlier. The Suzuki is definitely the loudest bike out there, but it doesn’t sound the best—more like a clapped out gixxer running a D&D can with the packing blown out. To my ears, the Ducs sounded the best (although they weren’t running well on this track). Hayden was on the second row—he certainly wasn’t dominating qualifying as he’d done a year earlier.

The AMA race was good, but let’s face it: everything else is a side show compared to the MotoGP circus.

Glenn got too much sun the previous day, so he decided to do a loop ride south of Salinas that would take him out to the coast south of Big Sur. As it turns out, he couldn’t find the road he wanted, and ended up backtracking in sweltering heat. He then got lost in Salinas. He asked for directions to the Motel 6, but it was the wrong one (there are two in town)! When I finally arrived at the motel, he was somewhat frazzled.

The salad I’d had for dinner didn’t do the trick, so I went out to a California institution for a burger and to ask the gods of fast food for confirmation of my choice of Nicky Hayden for the win in Sunday’s race:
http://drinkerthinker.com/images/sanfran_042005/in_n_out_burger_small.jpg
My order slip: merely a ticket to burger bliss, or prophecy of a win for young Hayden?
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84487830-M-1.jpg

[Granny22]

Brent,
Really enjoying your post. It's kind of like reading one of those multi book novels, you just keep wanting more!

[avsagain]

what, that's it?
there must be more. come on gimme gimme gimme!
excellent report.
one question though. did you go last year and this year? if so, most people were griping and groaning about traffic in and around the event last year. i read there were plans to alleviate the congestion and long waits in traffic for this year, and was curious what you thought about it.
seems like the motogp race was just a cherry on top of an enormous cake. i will have to set aside a week or 2 next year for a trip to california.

[bafflebrain]

Following the FX race, I took another trip through the paddock area and got a picture of Saint Nick’s favourite motorcycle(trivia: Who put a 500cc two-stroke on pole in the MotoGP class for the last time?):

Gary McCoy

[Remy]

absolutly amazing

just fucking kick ass man, seeing the pictures and reading it all, makes me acutally want to go for a long road ride now to ... :(

damn you *shakes fist*

[GSP]

Gary McCoy

See the pic for hint. ;)

[GSP]

Day 7: Race Day (Prophecy fulfilled)

As it turns out, skipping the morning activities at the track on race day was a wise decision. The MotoGP organizers were worried about the deteriorating asphalt on the track, so most of Sunday morning’s action was delayed until later that day.

We decided to try the loop that Glenn had hoped to ride the day before. We were off to an early start and headed south on Hwy 101 before heading west and arriving at the gate to Fort Hunter-Liggit. There, you show your ID and receive a visitor’s pass which you turn in when you leave. The road through this military area would have been a great ride, but the low speed limit discouraged spirited riding, and we didn’t feel the need to incur the wrath of the military. Once you exit the Fort, the road becomes very narrow and twisty all the way to the coast and Hwy 1.

I’d been south of Carmel on Hwy 1 before, but it was in a cage when I took my wife down several years ago. During that trip, we stopped for a tour of Hearst Castle, which is situated above San Simeon. Hearst used to own *80 miles* of coastline here. I highly recommend a visit if you’re ever in the area, but try to book in advance so that you’re guaranteed a spot on a tour (there are several to choose from because the house is too big to see in one visit). Glenn and I didn’t go that far south or take a tour, but I took a few pics when I was at the Castle with my wife. Not a bad place to spend time on a hot day:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/3620283-M-1.jpg

Hwy 1 in the Big Sur area. I didn’t have my camera on this morning, so this is a pic from the time I drove the road. The fog was starting to roll in:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/3620425-M.jpg

Rather than suffer through the over-priced track food, we opted to eat lunch before going to the track. We stopped at the Rio Grill in Carmel Highlands. The food was excellent--not much more than that on offer at the track—and they were showing World Superbike races from Brno on the TV above the bar.

It was (surprise, surprise) hot again on race day. Maybe the track could do with a few more shaded areas? Oh, and let’s improve the pedestrian bridges over the track. From what I’ve read about last year, things have improved, but there is still a long ways to go. Water had dropped from $4 to $1 per bottle on race day, and was later being given out for free. That’s a good thing, as the medical staff kept busy as numerous fans succumbed to the heat. Good thing that alcoholic drinks were so expensive, or it could have been a nightmare. The MotoGP race was definitely worth seeing, but I had to wonder at the people riding away from the track as we were arriving to watch the race. Why leave now?

Much to the crowd’s pleasure, Hayden pulled through for victory.

Many of you will have read the rumours about Rossi crossing over to F1 from bikes. I decided to cross over from local SV Cup action at Mission to race in Napcar. Here is a photo from my first public appearance (at Laguna Seca):

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455013-M.jpg

[GSP]

w
one question though. did you go last year and this year? if so, most people were griping and groaning about traffic in and around the event last year. i read there were plans to alleviate the congestion and long waits in traffic for this year, and was curious what you thought about it.
seems like the motogp race was just a cherry on top of an enormous cake. i will have to set aside a week or 2 next year for a trip to california.

I didn't go last year, but can say that getting to and from the track was easy on a bike. It helped that we stayed in Salinas, because the "bike only" entrance was on the east side of the track. The pedestrian bridges were hopelessly overwhelmed at times, but I'd just look for a shady spot with a breeze and wait for the crowds to clear. I'll probably go again in two years.

[Jaybo]

cmon Joe. It was Mcwilliams at Phillip Isle.


i win!

[GSP]

cmon Joe. It was Mcwilliams at Phillip Isle.


i win!

:cheers He really had to hang it out in windy conditions to secure that pole--I have huge respect for the guy.

[Jaybo]

oh yeah Mcwilliams gets huge respect. a talented rider, who always tried damn hard with less than stellar equipment.

[GSP]

Day 8: Back on the Road

Start: Salinas, CA
End: Arcata, CA
Mileage: 800km

Sometimes it’s not the destination, it’s the ride. It was time to get back on the road, and we both agree that this day turned out to be one of our best riding days. Ever. We rolled out of Salinas in darkness and made for the coast. Not many travelers on the road so early in the day, but we did see a few bikers and cagers camping in the pull-outs at the side of the highway. It was a pleasant change to be cold on the bike, but it never got to the point that I was reaching for the electric vest.

Obligatory lighthouse shot:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455430-M-1.jpg

We’d hoped to follow Hwy 1 all the way to San Francisco, but the road was closed due to a slide (not at all uncommon) north of Half Moon Bay, so we had to turn inland for the freeway. The road closure produced a traffic snarl in Half Moon Bay, so we stopped for breakfast and waited for the traffic to thin out. It did, and we made our way through San Francisco and onto the Golden Gate Bridge. Surprisingly riding into San Francisco from the south barely raised my blood pressure—nothing like confronting traffic in Vancouver. As usual, the bridge was obscured by fog (it’s never been clear when I’ve used it), but we stopped to take some photos at the rest area on the north side.

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455718-M.jpg

The heat along the 101 was oppressive, so we made for the cooler weather of the coast. As expected, things cooled considerably—there was still some fog lingering in the late morning.

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455813-M.jpg

Traffic along Hwy 1 wasn’t too bad, but it wasn’t long before I got the urge to explore some side roads. Glenn was game, so why not? Looks like a promising start:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455839-M.jpg

This turned out to be a great little detour, but we probably should have taken one of the earlier turn-offs that led back to the main highway. Eventually, the road graveled out:

http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455866-M.jpg

It went on for some time, winding its way down the mountain. I suspected that it must be going down towards the ocean, but as it was getting narrower, rougher, and steeper, I wanted to be sure. We stopped and asked a couple of hikers, and their trail map showed us to be on the right trail to get back to the coast. It was but a few miles further up the coast that I saw a road sign for a road I’d heard about many times before: Stewart Point-Skaggs Spring Road. Hey, why not? The road started as more of a paved goat trail—fun, but not the greatest of motorcycle roads. Little did the start prepare us for what was waiting on the eastern side of the road: smooth pavement, wide lanes, some good sightlines, and plenty of elevation change as the road dropped into Sonoma wine country. What a great, great stretch of pavement. Given more time, I’m sure we would have run it a few more times. Other traffic? Very sparse, and willing to pull over for a couple of motorcycle tourists seeking nirvana in the hills.

Skaggs Spring Road:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84455975-M.jpg

It didn’t take long for the heat to start beating us down, so we took a welcome respite from the elements in an air conditioned restaurant, before taking yet another road back to the coast. Hwy 128 was another great ride and once again the cagers were willing to pull over and let us through. 128 deposited us on the coast just south of Mendocino. Should I ever become filthy rich (unlikely, I know), this section of coastline is one area I’d like to live in. Until then, I’ll be content with passing through every couple of years. As we continued north on Hwy 1, the traffic began to thin, and bikes became the majority. Many of the riders we spoke with were also returning from the races, and some of the speeds people were traveling two-up were breathtaking. The final 30 miles of Hwy 1 leading into Leggett were incredible--the road never seemed to straighten and the 20-30mph curves bore many a scar from hard parts touching down. Back on Hwy 101, we passed one of several vehicles trailering bikes. WTF? Some of the best riding anywhere, and your bikes are sitting on a trailer!?

We’d timed today’s ride well—it was only starting to get dark about 20 miles from our stop for night in Arcata. While we swapped out our tinted visors and added a layer of clothing, we saw Glenn’s boss ride by on his 916. We later learned that his son-in-law had totaled his RC51 in that final 30 miles of glorious pavement on Hwy 1. Luckily, he wasn’t injured seriously, but I saw the bike a few days later in Castlegar, and there wasn’t much left.

We checked into our Motel 6 around 10pm, and after eating some dinner, got some well-earned sleep. I wish the staff at Motel 6 would actually finish making up the rooms before going home, but maybe that’s the price of relatively cheap and accessible accommodation.

[BigWilly]

nice pictures. id love to do a ride like that ive driven to miami twice 52 hrs straight through in the 300zx twin turbo back in 94 usually takes 72. well have fun and dont where your asses out to much, your asses gotta be getting sore by now it probably the the heat that bothers you the most though

[Fookyboy]

WOW..... you cant but that view. unbelievable.....
WOW...

[GSP]

Day 9 More Curves, More Heat, and Crater Lake

Start: Arcata, CA
End: Redmond, OR
Distance: 700km

We were off to another early start as we headed west on 299 out of Arcata. It’s a good road, with more traffic than I would have expected so early. Fortunately, the highway patrol wasn’t too interested in us, as we were certainly traveling at a pace worthy of a roadside chat. 60 km later, we turned onto Hwy 96, which we would follow for the next 250km until we reached I-5. Hwy 96 follows a sparsely populated route along the Klamath River, twisties are plentiful (if not as spectacular as what we’d grown accustomed to on the previous day), and traffic was very light. One of the few times we were held up was behind a line-painting crew. Now, most of us are used to these trucks moving very slowly. However, this truck was moving at a good clip—probably 80km/h or faster. The impact this rapid progress had on the quality of the lines was predictable, and there was plenty of evidence of this crew’s past work. Two lines often became three, or four, or just one big line down the centre. I guess nobody bothers to check on the quality of the line painting up here!

Following a brief nap at a rest area, it was time for some quality time on the Interstate. We were back to the familiar heat, and due to a lack of sleep the night before, I was really feeling it. At the races, I’d been on the lookout for an evaporative cooling vest—basically a vest that has some sort of water-absorbent medium in it that you wear under your riding suit. There were none for sale (someone could have made a small fortune), and I’d given up on the idea. So here we were at gas station just off the I-5 in the middle of nowhere, and Glenn sees a notice on a bulletin board: “Why be hot on your motorcycle?” It turns out that someone nearby was selling the vests. We called the number, and 20 minutes later, a woman shows up with two vests (charged with cold water) and a credit card machine. $35 each, and we were on our way. The effect is much like wetting your shirt, but it lasts much longer. You just need to ensure that you have adequate ventilation in your riding gear, or you’ll just feel clammy.

Lookin’ stylish in our cooling vests ( people that ride with me know I’m all about looking fashionable :laughing):
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456075-M.jpg

Despite the cooling effect of our new vests, I was still feeling very tired. When we stopped for gas in Medford, the shade and grass in front of the Shell station was just too tempting, so I grabbed a few more winks. Glenn did the same:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456104-M.jpg

We now had our sites set on Crater Lake. We stopped at the small town of Prospect to fill up before going up to the lake, as we didn’t know when the next gas would be available. It turns out that “Prospect” really means “No Prospects”. As I was on the pay phone securing a room for later that night, a couple of guys arrived in a beat-up Dodge Ram 4X4 (not the big Power Wagon type; the small 4 cylinder ones that were made by Mitsubishi).

“Betcha this truck’ll do 120mph. I’ll betcha a hundred dollars.” As this offer was being tendered, another local was exiting his tired Chev ½ ton, so he chimed in (with a smile): “I’ll bet my truck’ll do 75mph…maybe 80.”

Even if we took the bet from Ram-driver, we suspected that verification was going to be a problem. I didn’t think that either one of us was anxious to experience said truck at maximum velocity. Hmmm, could be that he values the truck at less than $100 and would just push it off a convenient cliff. Are those banjoes playing? (Cue the flashbacks to the movie “Deliverance”: “Run Ned, run!”)

We left.

Crater Lake is simply spectacular. Pictures will not do it justice—I’d suggest you go there in person, and preferably on a bike (just because that’s the best way to travel. Right?). For those who don’t know, Crater Lake was formed when Mt Mazama erupted and collapsed some 7000 years ago, leaving a 6 mile wide caldera, which is now filled by the lake.

A pic of the lake and Wizard Island. There’s still snow along the shore in Mid-July; this area averages over 500 inches of snow every year:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456148-M.jpg

Glenn takes a pic:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456224-M.jpg

Another view:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456198-M.jpg

There isn’t much to report after Crater Lake as we were relegated to riding the mostly straight Hwy 97 to Redmond.

[Redyota]

Crater Lake is Awesome, I rolled through there in early june, definatly looks a little nicer with some snow :rockon

[RiceRocket]

...
I'm gonna grab my wife now, pull her to the monitor and say "Look, this is what it's all about!!"

Gotta do Laguna Seca before I turn into a geezer! ...
My thoughts exactly.


How do you convince the wife to let you leave for these trips every year? :) I need some pointers...
Send those pointers my way when you get them.


absolutly amazing

just fucking kick ass man, seeing the pictures and reading it all, makes me acutally want to go for a long road ride now to ... :(

damn you *shakes fist*
Me too.

Like everyone has said, nice writeup and pics. This is what riding is all about for me. One day...one day...

[Simple]

Best post I've read in a long time. Thanks for sharing Brent.

I would love to ride to Leguna Seca next year. Send my your pointers for the wife. I think I need to start begging this week and wear her down over the next 11 months.

[GSP]

Day 10: Homeward Bound

Start: Redmond, OR
End: Castlegar, BC
Mileage: 950km

If you’ve read this far, you’re probably glad that I’m almost finished! :laughing

First things first: breakfast at the Black Bear Diner is enough to keep you going for the entire day. Of course, it might be a short day if your heart gives out trying to push this sludge through rapidly hardening arteries. We ate in Madras, Oregon, but there are many locations throughout Oregon, Nevada, Arizona, and California. I recommend “upgrading” your pancakes to the granola almond variety and all of the orange juice is fresh-squeezed. The most pleasant surprise was that you could get such a huge portion *with* good quality.

Glenn likes to eat. A lot. Had we stepped out of this restaurant and into a nuclear holocaust, he would have died a happy man:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456440-M.jpg

The central and eastern parts of northern Oregon continue to be one of my favorite riding areas. The Antelope Hwy was a new road to me, and it didn’t disappoint. I rode Glenn’s Triumph for a time, and while I appreciated a suspension with damping (as opposed to the well-worn “spring-only” suspension on the VFR), I just can’t get used to the racer crouch on the road. Despite its shortcomings, I’m just too comfortable with the VFR to give it up. And too broke.

Just another winding road in yet another Oregon coulee:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84457359-M.jpg

Got Wheat?
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456836-M.jpg

We passed through Condon, OR (where we stayed on night 1) before heading up 206 and back to Hwy 97. Just out of town, there is a sizeable wind farm. I guess there are problems with the spinning blades making life miserable for errant birdlife, but its cleaner than burning coal.

The old VFR—still going:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84456865-M.jpg

“Blow me!”
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84457109-M.jpg

John Day River:
http://beeceegs.smugmug.com/photos/84457297-M.jpg

By this point, I think Glenn was tired of stopping for pictures, so the camera went into the tank bag for the rest of the day. We were both ready to be home, and there was still an entire state between us and our destination.

If there is any concern about energy security in the United States, it wasn’t evident when crossing WA State. The roads were thick with huge 5th wheels—often traveling in excess of 80mph. A 1 ton truck or one of those huge RV’s with a big gas V8 would have to cost 40-50 cents/mile in fuel alone at those speeds. Ah well, at least it was easy to blend into the traffic and make swift progress. I was passed by a State Trooper while traveling at 85mph, and didn’t get so much as a dirty look.

We arrived in Castlegar later that evening. There was more riding to be done in the Kootenays before returning home, but Castlegar marks the end of this journey.

[GSP]

How do you convince the wife to let you leave for these trips every year? :) I need some pointers...

She knows that I would become (even more?) unbearable to be around if I didn't get my riding fix. It's good for *our* mental health. :laughing

[grandshervee]

I finally finished the thread. An absolute joy to read. Thank you SOOO much for sharing. :thewave :spinsmile :thumbup

[snowshark84]

That looks like an amazing adventure. Maybe I'll do something along those lines next year. Thanks for sharing that with us.

[navarcht]

I'm jealous. Not because of the trip; that was great I did Laguna last year and had a blast. -it's because you have a centre stand for your VFR! I'll trade you the kickstand coverplate you're missing for your centre stand. -walking the bike to oil the chain sucks.