GREENBOY ( AKA STEVE ) Northern Adventure !!!! [Archive]

Thumper 8

05-19-2007, 06:03 PM

A couple of hardy, wet souls saw Steve away this morning.

Jeckyll, Countryslicker and Steve's girlfriend (the very, very understanding Patricia) and I joined Steve at the Westmount Chevron, and got to see Steve start this great adventure. Couple of pics below from the Chevron - our crew consisted of 3 red KLR's plus a Ninja 636 and a Gixxer 750.

A quick boot up the S2S to Squamish where 'Jeckyll the puss' bailed. Something about not being able to ride in the rain without his purple Barney jacket... some kind of bizarro security blanket thing with him. The man has issues.

The remaining four of us swam up to Pemberton on our bikes and had a great brunch at Big Sky Golf Course. We joined a lot of golfers in the restaurant complaining about the rain.

Steve and his sense of direction (or lack thereof!) are legendary, so I gave him a going away present - a snazzy $0.99 compass/keyring. This is his sole navigation device and will serve him in lieu of a GPS system or any maps. As you read this, Steve is either headed for Alaska or the Baja.

Patricia turned around at Pemby, so the remaining 3 soaked nutbars had a quick rip through the Duffey through rain, wet snow, a splash of sunshine and more rain, where the 2 remaining KLR's put the Gixxer to shame. Between Lillooet and Lytton, the Gixxer 'stretched its legs' a little and left the lowly KLR in it's dust.

We went our separate ways at Lillooet - Steve heading north to Mexico and Countryslicker and I heading south to Lytton.

Couple of other pictures of Steve rolling through the Duffey, and a couple of pictures from the Lightfoot gas station in Lillooet. Great ride back through the Canyon and Fraser Valley with Countryslicker - with at least half a dozen marked and unmarked police cars in the Canyon.

Steve, it was great to send you off (and to meet Patricia) and I hope you log in as much as possible to give us updates, and let us know how you are doing.

Good luck and godspeed buddy!

Thumper 8

05-19-2007, 06:07 PM

2 more pics:

Although it was a wet start to the day, it was a great day for a ride. Those who didn't make it missed a great day.

CountrySlicker

05-19-2007, 06:25 PM

What a great send off for Mr Greenboy! Today's ride was great; I thought for a bit there we were going to get some rain showers, but no, it was pretty well steadily pouring rain all morning, first coming straight down and then blowing so hard in Pemberton that the rain was horizontal. Not until we headed toward Lytton from Lillooet did we see any extensive sunshine.

Good luck Steve, ride hard and have fun.

For anyone else thinking of riding the Duffy Lake route, take a KLR...it is so freaking broken up with potholes and broken pavement that it was like a dualsport ride.

waterman

05-19-2007, 06:26 PM

Thanks Thumper et al for braving the elements to see Steve off in style! My bike has water-based paint, so I was forced to keep it parked. Of course, no sooner had I made the decision to bail on this ride, than the sun came out in all its glory. You have to love BC in the springtime!

Good luck, Steve. We all dream of tackling something like this, but don't actually do it.

Thumper 8

05-19-2007, 06:45 PM

This pic came out smaller the first time. This is what Steve will be doing for the next 3 or 4 weeks - rolling through gorgeous countryside on a fully loaded KLR :rockon

Hiroki

05-19-2007, 06:49 PM

Have fun Steve, I know you will.
Rubber side down and warm winds on your back.
:thumbup

Ok so whats the secrete blue cylinder ting in the front of the bike.

Skookum

05-19-2007, 06:59 PM

Happy trails Steve, looking forward to your stories on the next ride.

alternateimpact

05-19-2007, 08:42 PM

Hope your trip is off to a good start Steve:) I will check in on your thread here while I am away myself on vacation. you better take tons of pics!:rockon
And dont worry, Clare and I will ease Patricia's worrys while your gone:)

Torch

05-19-2007, 10:08 PM

Hey Steve, Missed the send off ride today, had to work. Enjoy the ride, there is some really nice scenery up there. Post pics...and of course your stories! I'm riding up to Edmonton on June 10-12th, maybe we'll fluke a meet during my BC return........yeah, that's likely. :laughing Will have to do a northern ride some day.

Enjoy your trip.

greenboy

05-19-2007, 10:14 PM

Hey all!

Thanks for the well wishes. It remains to be seen how far I actually make it before any combination of weather/temps, road conditions, breakdowns, animals, tipovers, luck and stupidity get the better of me. I am prepared to turn around at any point if necessary.

I arrived in Prince George soaking wet at about 8:20 p.m. this evening. Was that some mixed rain/snow on the Duffy we saw today? That wasn't too bad, I got pounded in a short intense hailstorm in Williams Lake too. Fun stuff. It was all sun - cloud - rain - repeat cycle, after I split with Tony and Stacey out of Lillooet. The sunny bits were pretty stunning. I can't post any pics though because the hotel computer is locked up, and there's only a screen on a desk.

So the truth is I have no idea what I'm doing. I ignored or forgot most of the great advice given to me (too much information). My GPS consists of 2 maps, a broken compass (thanks Tony, I turned it upside down and it worked just fine:) - I should be in Mexico by Friday), torn pages out of a Milepost, and a rabbit's foot.

Anyway I 'm sticking to the main roads.

I'm also battling the end stages of a chest/sinus cold, and probably should have delayed this trip a few more days ... Naahhhh. If it rains tomorrow I'm just going to stay another day in Prince George, catch up on some sleep and regain my strength. Otherwise I'll be heading to Dawson Creek tomorrow.

Thanks for the sendoff Patricia, Tony, Stacey ... and Bjorn (sort of, you wanker). Sorry the rest of you couldn't/didn't make it but no sweat.

Today's observations:

1. It's colder up here than in the Lower Mainland.
2. KLR gas mileage stinks (360 km / tank) when you have the throttle cranked all day. I'm going to have to re-learn this. No point trying to go fast on a bike that, well, isn't fast.
3. Don't skimp on the rainsuit.
4. Bring more than 2 sets of gloves.
5. Saw a lot of pine-beetle infested trees on the way up today. I think that's what they were. Really large scale damage, I'm suprised nothing's being done about it.

Steve

greenboy

05-19-2007, 10:23 PM

Hey, it's still there and hasn't vibrated off. I think I'll put my welding rods back in it. :laughing

Pete it contains secret maps, national security stuff. If I tell I will have to kill you.

jeckyll

05-19-2007, 11:02 PM

J_Scott

05-19-2007, 11:51 PM

Sorry I couldn't make it this weekend Steve, taking a bit of a breather from riding for a couple days.

Hope you have a great trip and we look forward to your stories. Oh.. and take this advice from a farm boy; if you see a bear play dead but don't lay down on your stomach with your ass in the air... when it happens, you'll know why. ;)

Machinist

05-20-2007, 06:31 AM

greenboy

05-20-2007, 06:52 AM

Hi Steve,Glad to hear you Made it to PG, Don't forget about the PICTURE
** Mr PG :laughing :laughing **
That pine bettle Damage is incrediable , Unless you go up there and see it you can't appreciate what has happened up there .
Take care of your COLD , ** Mines just about Gone **
Have fun :rider

Hey Chris, I'm staying in Prince George today to sleep off the rest of this cold hopefully. It gets a bit better every day, and the weather's looking kind of foggy and bleak right now anyway.

Yesterday I rode 800+ km. Tomorrow I'll be off to Dawson Creek, it'll be shorter as I imagine a lot of my trips will be on this little adventure.

Scott, that story about the bear sure explains a lot of things about you that a bunch of us didn't want to ask. I guess those Winnipeg bear statues I saw all over their streets in summer 2005 weren't smiling for nothing. :laughing It all makes perfect sense now, thanks for sharing.

greenboy

05-20-2007, 07:00 AM

LOL

Steve, you're nuts of course.

Glad you made it to PG. I'm going to have to invest in some proper raingear I guess :D

Oh and I saw 8 cops between Squish and the ferry terminal... I guess they were serious about the increased enforcement this weekend.

My brand new rainsuit is sporting one small hole on the left butt cheek, and a not so small hole where a seam is separating. Both ankle straps broke too. I looked at a BMW Rallye2Pro suit but it was insanely expensive, so I opted for a PVC suit that cost about 1/36 as much (seriously) instead. BMW bikes and gear, as nice as they are, aren't really my thing. Plus I have a full roll of duct tape and plenty of dollar-store elasticized velcro straps, so all is well.

JustinF

05-20-2007, 07:06 AM

Good luck, take care, and ENJOY!

rscudiver

05-20-2007, 07:09 AM

GO STEVE GO! We should have put a GPS tracking device on him.

I'd love to dual sport the northern part of Scotland and Ireland.

Take lots of pics and keep an eyeout for wildlife.

jeckyll

05-20-2007, 07:58 AM

Steve: From Dawson it's going to be damn boring for a while until Ft. Nelson. Be careful heading into the mountains north of Ft. Nelson. There is so much wildlife and the weather can change in an instant.

Hope your gear hangs in there!

Bjorn

dothedr3w

05-20-2007, 01:09 PM

holy crap thats a long trip, good luck man, ride safe

Thumper 8

05-20-2007, 05:59 PM

Maybe you'll post something interesting enough for a certain BCSBr' to change his signature line. :devillook

Huh???

Kakashi

05-21-2007, 12:23 PM

Pete it contains secret maps, national security stuff. If I tell I will have to kill you.

Oh poo. I was hoping that you'd say surface-to-air missile launcher. Could also be used to tackle the mosquitos up there. :laughing

Steve: From Dawson it's going to be damn boring for a while until Ft. Nelson. Be careful heading into the mountains north of Ft. Nelson. There is so much wildlife and the weather can change in an instant.

Hope your gear hangs in there!

Bjorn

Dawson Creek itself is boring. Total hole :(

greenboy

05-21-2007, 05:22 PM

Test photo.

I just figured this out. I have been taking all my pics so far on "Large" setting, and I can't reduce them to post up on here. Even on "Small" setting I have to reduce it a bit. What a pain in the ass.

Anyway, I'll start taking pics on "Small" now and hopefully will have better success in the future. In the meantime, feast your eyes people on my camera case and the hotel keyboard.

Today I rode about 500 km from Prince George to Fort St. John, where I am now. Sunny all day, but cold in the a.m. Saw a dear and some bears off the side of the road. One bear was huge.

I also went on a few dirt/logging/whatever road excursions until things got to hairy for my lousy offroad skill level.

greenboy

05-21-2007, 05:45 PM

OK, class is in session. Today's lecture will be followed by a practical application the next time it pisses rain out.

On the left we have Sample #1, a pair of Tecknic Powerskins insulated weatherproof gloves, advertised as "waterproof", "100% waterproof", or words to that effect. Cost = about $80 plus taxes; time to soak through in the rain = 20 minutes.

Scan right. Sample #2 are a pair of cotton reinforced work gloves and a pair of PVC work gloves (water and possibly chemical proof). Total cost = $3.62 including taxes. Time to soak through has not yet been field tested, but test subject is eagerly awaiting next miserable rainfall to measure the results.

True, Sample #2 has no road abrasion qualities, and would probably shred like toilet paper on contact with asphalt. But:

1. Sample #1 is generally loose-fiting and would probably come off in a slide anyway.

2. Sample #2 is pretty sexy looking, you have to admit.

3. Ask your soaking wet, frozen-to-the-bone hands and fingers what they prefer.

To be continued ...

Machinist

05-21-2007, 05:48 PM

Steve, The Word is DEER not DEAR !!!! , Missing your Girlfreind allready ?? How do you like the north country so far ???? Going over PINE PASS was probably a nice ride :flashy You tryed a Logging Road :laughing .
If you really want to get excited go Down one of the Sizmic lines North of
Pink Mtn.:horse

Test photo.

I just figured this out. I have been taking all my pics so far on "Large" setting, and I can't reduce them to post up on here. Even on "Small" setting I have to reduce it a bit. What a pain in the ass.

Anyway, I'll start taking pics on "Small" now and hopefully will have better success in the future. In the meantime, feast your eyes people on my camera case and the hotel keyboard.

Today I rode about 500 km from Prince George to Fort St. John, where I am now. Sunny all day, but cold in the a.m. Saw a dear and some bears off the side of the road. One bear was huge.

I also went on a few dirt/logging/whatever road excursions until things got to hairy for my lousy offroad skill level.

greenboy

05-21-2007, 06:02 PM

Chris, spelling wildlife has never been one of my strengths. Also, is "bear" both single and plural??

I visited Prince George Man yesterday and took a few photos but can't download them because they're too big. Also some nice frozen lake shots today, lots or blue skies overhead and it barely rained. My two boring pics above are encouraging though, hopefuily I'll be able to post up something more exciting than my hotel room and a computer.

Steve

Machinist

05-21-2007, 06:31 PM

The Male Bear is A BOAR and a Female is a SOW :2guns Just so you Know in Advance when you see a MOOSE the Male ( Has Antlers ) is A Bull and the Female is a Cow ( No Antlers ) :horse To Confuse you even More Most Bull's wont have much for Antlers at this time of the year so you will have to look for the other thing :laughing :laughing

Chris, spelling wildlife has never been one of my strengths. Also, is "bear" both single and plural??

I visited Prince George Man yesterday and took a few photos but can't download them because they're too big. Also some nice frozen lake shots today, lots or blue skies overhead and it barely rained. My two boring pics above are encouraging though, hopefuily I'll be able to post up something more exciting than my hotel room and a computer.

Steve

heisenberg9

05-21-2007, 06:33 PM

I've tried the rubber gloves over thinnish leather gloves. Couldn't stop thinking about what would happen to my hands if I went off the bike.

A buddy of mine who's a fireman suggested I try fireman's gauntlets. I still have to take him up on the idea. If they look like the ticket I will post up.

anoxion

05-21-2007, 06:47 PM

try uploading your photo's to photobucket. www.photobucket.com there is no real size restriction and its very easy to link them to the forums (they provide copyable links under each picture).

definately sounds like a great trip tho, i am crazy envious

anoxion

05-21-2007, 06:49 PM

also, try latex gloves under your riding gloves, can probly pick them up at any hardware store. i have yet to try this but apparently they work similar to a wetsuit, where the moisture from your hands gets warmed up and stays put keeping your hands wet but warm

jeckyll

05-21-2007, 09:27 PM

Steve: When you get to Liard River, stop off at the hot springs if you get a chance. :)

greenboy

05-22-2007, 07:30 AM

jeckyll

05-22-2007, 08:42 AM

Chris, I'll just ask the animals myself. :happysq

Anoxion, thanks for the tips re: photobucket and latex. ..

Man, when you quote that out of context it sure sounds bad.

:evilgrin

whirlygirl

05-22-2007, 08:52 AM

greenboy

05-22-2007, 02:54 PM

Good Luck today - I'm currently sitting about 90 miles east of Fort Nelson (Lovely Rainbow Lake, AB, if anyone cares) and woke up to 4 inches of fresh snow this morning... it's supposed to stop around noon, though. God, this place sux...

I rode in wet snow for about 1.0 hour coming out of Ft. St. John, then it was on-off cloudy/sunny/dry/wet for the remaining time to Fort Nelson. I think I missed the big one that I heard dumped last night between Ft. St. John and Fort Nelson. Clear sailiing to Fort Nelson by the time I arrived around 2:30 p.m.

counter_strike

05-22-2007, 02:59 PM

I rode in wet snow for about 1.0 hour coming out of Ft. St. John, then it was on-off cloudy/sunny/dry/wet for the remaining time to Fort Nelson. I think I missed the big one that I heard dumped last night between Ft. St. John and Fort Nelson. Clear sailiing to Fort Nelson by the time I arrived around 2:30 p.m.

Steve, are y surfing online more often than actually riding?
Where are all the photos you have been taking? Lets see them...

greenboy

05-22-2007, 02:59 PM

Actually, it looked like a good day for a ride, so I loaded up and set off into the sunny, moderately tropical temperatures this a.m. from Ft. St. John. I rode in shorts and a T-shirt, and had to put on #30 sun block because it was so damned hot. How I longed for slightly cooler temperatures, and even a bit of precipitation would have been nice.

I made it to Fort Nelson in the afternoon, sun-burned and dehydrated. Here are some pictures at the beach.

VictorEric

05-22-2007, 03:04 PM

I rode in wet snow for about 1.0 hour coming out of Ft. St. John, then it was on-off cloudy/sunny/dry/wet for the remaining time to Fort Nelson. I think I missed the big one that I heard dumped last night between Ft. St. John and Fort Nelson. Clear sailiing to Fort Nelson by the time I arrived around 2:30 p.m.

So can you remind me again why you are doing this?!?

I rode through a hail storm yesterday, but I don't feel sorry for myself anymore.

greenboy

05-22-2007, 03:08 PM

Hey Chuck. Yep, I am riding, just doing my pace, on my time. It's freaking cold and semi-miserable out, and I'm still sick. So I am in no hurry to do 800+ km days.

Here's some widlife at the gas station at Pink Mountain.

greenboy

05-22-2007, 03:15 PM

After the wet snow let up, most of the day looked like this. Not too many twisties between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson.

Eric, I was thinking the same thing, about my own local weather riding complaints, as I rode through the wet snow. None of it was sticking, and the biggest obstacle was horrible visibility, faceshield constantly snowing up. I stayed warm and dry though except for my feet.

You can learn a lot about road/weather conditions just talking to stopped people travelling in the opposite direction from you (eg. at a gas station). Everyone wants to know where'd you come from, and how was it so far. Good system, except the weather patterns seem to be changing daily around here.

silverD

05-22-2007, 03:18 PM

Chris, I'll just ask the animals myself. :happysq

Anoxion, thanks for the tips re: photobucket and latex. I have a few pairs of Nitryline (sp.?) gloves already and will try those first.

It's looking grey, miserable, windy and cold out there but still dry at the moment. This will be a less than ideal day for riding. I'm off to Fort Nelason now, see you all soon ...

Say hi to Fort Nelson for me, I spent more than a few months there many moons ago...

And you can give my regards to Watson Lake when you get there as well, Then Whitehorse, Faro, Cantung, Yup I been to all the big places...... LOL

sushigrl

05-22-2007, 03:40 PM

looks like a great advanture, steve. have a safe trip and keep us updated.

Mutate Now!

05-22-2007, 06:03 PM

How I longed for slightly cooler temperatures, and even a bit of precipitation would have been nice.

That's craaaazy. Caked up snow/slush on your bars/mirrors/headlight/helmet... Stay warm, my friend.

scubaphil

05-23-2007, 07:56 AM

keep the pictures coming... ride safe steve and stay warm!

jeckyll

05-23-2007, 08:01 AM

Good Luck today - I'm currently sitting about 90 miles east of Fort Nelson (Lovely Rainbow Lake, AB, if anyone cares) and woke up to 4 inches of fresh snow this morning... it's supposed to stop around noon, though. God, this place sux...

Steve, you obviously should have gone East at Fort Nelson and met up with whirlygirl for a coffee. I mean common, a woman who rides sportbikes and flies helicopters? That's cool :evilgrin

No offence whirlygirl :D

greenboy

05-23-2007, 08:27 AM

The skies are looking a lot better this a.m.

Goodbye Ft. Nelson. Say hello to Watson Lake, Yukon next.

So what's new in the Lower Mainland this week? A fight broke out on Granville Mall in Vancouver? Noisy motorcycle pipes reported along Marine Drive in West Van? Any Hollywood starlets spotted at Jeckyll's place?

whirlygirl

05-23-2007, 09:22 AM

Steve, you obviously should have gone East at Fort Nelson and met up with whirlygirl for a coffee. I mean common, a woman who rides sportbikes and flies helicopters? That's cool :evilgrin

No offence whirlygirl :D

Ha ha - none taken! And sadly, there are no roads here from Fort Nelson... just miles of stunted spruce trees and swamp (aka: mosquito nurseries) I'm starting to forget what pavement looks like... :surrender

Stay warm, Greenboy!

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:03 PM

Unbelievable day. Saw nothing but sunshine, dry roads, animals, beautiful lakes and more stunning mountains than you could spit at. Here's the closed motel/restaurant/gas station at Steamboat, B.C.

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:07 PM

The roads just south of, and for a while north of, Muncho Lake, B.C. are outta this world. Nice twisty sections, drop-dead beautiful lake to my left, the sun on my back and mountains in my mirrors. I think the Gixxer would approve. :thumbup

Machinist

05-23-2007, 06:09 PM

Steve ,
Now you see how Fantastic it is up North :eek So you can see why I go up there every Fall for two weeks and Ride around in the Back country on my Quad :tredmill

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:10 PM

But you have to watch your speeds around the lake. Not so much the rocks on the road. Rocks don't move and run in front of you, and you can ride around them.

The bigger danger are the Muncho Lake Corner Marshals out in full force today, these guys are pretty strict about slowing you down in the middle of corners.

silverD

05-23-2007, 06:14 PM

Hmmm, brown flag, yup, best slow down.

Beautiful country eh Steve!!!

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:20 PM

Here are some of the locals (Ft. Nelson to Watson Lake), coming out to say hello to some goof on a motorcycle. I've kept my distance, and so far most of the animals are either curious, indifferent or just scared, in which case they run away.

I thought the bear in the ditch was injured, but then he got up and walked away. He was just cooling off in the ditch water I guess.

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:25 PM

These are some of the typical views I've been looking at all day.

The long straight stretches, and huge 0.5 km long sweepers, are dangerous IMO. I had two "zone-outs" while riding these because nothing was happening.

The second to last one is me .. you guessed it ... crossing into the Yukon.

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:31 PM

Not much to do in Watson Lake. Only two restaurants open. Good thing the library is still open. I have no idea what this display is, a bunch of road signs from all over the world, especially the USA and Deutschland.

Chris, do you come up this far on your hunting trips?

VictorEric

05-23-2007, 06:41 PM

Nice pics. Glad you finally got some good riding weather. Watch out for the Zone-Outs though.

greenboy

05-23-2007, 06:52 PM

Hmmm, brown flag, yup, best slow down.

Beautiful country eh Steve!!!

Is there such thing as a brown flag??? OK, OK I get it Don. Check out the red and yellow earrings on one of the marshals. That one was tagged, and she something that looked like an antenna attached to the sde of her head. Or maybe it was a radio to call in to the pits.

Machinist

05-23-2007, 06:58 PM

You probably seen a Turn off to the North adout 100 Km's from where all of the Signs ( Licence Plates are ) That goes to Smith River , We Have been up in there 4 times .:gun

Not much to do in Watson Lake. Only two restaurants open. Good thing the library is still open. I have no idea what this display is, a bunch of road signs from all over the world, especially the USA and Deutschland.

Chris, do you come up this far on your hunting trips?

Machinist

05-23-2007, 07:38 PM

Looks like Blackie was enjoying A Nap in the Sun , until you Came Along :devillook
This Picture was Taken not far the Yukon Border , We offered this Blackie a
Cold one But he was not accepting :eek

Thumper 8

05-23-2007, 07:50 PM

Nice adventure so far, but not too dangerous. I am going for true danger... on Friday I am riding my bike to Richmond - the land of the zone-outs!

j/k - nice to see blue sky in your pictures. Keep on going and giving us updates - and you may not want to sneak up on sleeping bears. I think J_Scott said that may not turn out so well :laughing

Fjr eh

05-23-2007, 08:25 PM

Nice pictures, been as far as Hyder on the FJR.

Been enjoying my (new to me) KLR, heading to the North End of Vancouver Island this weekend.

Fjr eh
Klr eh

RiceRocket

05-23-2007, 09:53 PM

Steve, good to see you finally got some good weather. Take some pictures when you're in Whitehorse, my birthtown. It'd be nice to see what it looks like b/c I was too young to remember anything.

dog44

05-23-2007, 11:37 PM

Whoa, glad I didn't miss this thread. Steve, I am so envious! Okay, well actually I'm not the least bit envious ... but good for you, ya crazy bastard!!!

Come back in one piece. Miss ya buddy.

rscudiver

05-24-2007, 06:05 AM

SO Steve 'ENERGIZER BUNNY' where do you change batteries?

Seriously though, how are the bugs....really? I heard they skin mosquitos for their fur and make gloves out of them.

sushigrl

05-24-2007, 11:32 AM

more pictures pls :)

jeckyll

05-24-2007, 12:33 PM

Great pictures Steve. Glad you got some better weather :)

greenboy

05-24-2007, 02:32 PM

Nice pictures, been as far as Hyder on the FJR.

Been enjoying my (new to me) KLR, heading to the North End of Vancouver Island this weekend.

Fjr eh
Klr eh

New to me too, December, 2007 to be precise. Today I reached about 9,000 km (?).

Here's a milestone below.

The KLR may not be an FJR in terms of power, comfort, handling, brakes, luggage capacity, wind protection (holy crap, I'm feeling inadequate), but all in all it makes a pretty decent touring machine plus it can negotiate gravel and light trails fairly OK (if you know what you're doing - I don't).

greenboy

05-24-2007, 02:39 PM

Today's roads from Watson Lake to Whitehorse were not terribly interesting, mostly huge straightaways and long, long sweepers. But I've been blessed with good weather, although I have learned quickly that a sunny morning, even a warm morning (when-standing-not-riding), does not make for a warm ride. Until about 12:00 noon multiple layers, heated vest, hippo hands and insulated gloves are a must.

Anyway can't complain. Here's some of the never-ending views I keep having flashbacks of mile after mile after mile.

greenboy

05-24-2007, 02:45 PM

Here's Teslin. Of note is the long-ass steel bridge, and a massive partly frozen lake.

I passed another possily even larger frozen lake about 2.0 hours later, I forgot the name of it. It was near Atlin I think (?). No pics though, I got lazy.

A big lake up here is really freaking big.

greenboy

05-24-2007, 02:53 PM

Here's a little closer to Teslin Lake, from a short dirt road I found, one of many leading off the higway.

There's a make-shift bush party campsite nearby, but I didn't take any pics of it. No passed-out revelers to be seen.

Also, today I saw almost no animals on the road although there were moose warning signs everywhere. I guess they're all vacationing in Portugal. I hear it's warm and temperate there right about now.

greenboy

05-24-2007, 02:59 PM

SO Steve 'ENERGIZER BUNNY' where do you change batteries?

Seriously though, how are the bugs....really? I heard they skin mosquitos for their fur and make gloves out of them.

So far so good with bugs. There were two mosquitoes in my room at Watson Lake, and I killed them both. One tried to bite me unsuccessfully.

I think it's probably still a bit too cold for the bugs to come out in full force, but it's only a matter of time now.

In summer 2005 I rode through Manitoba bug swarms, but I don't remember any biting me. Just hundreds of dragonflys and other winged critters splattered all over my leathers, giving it that fresh just-dog-barfed-on-look. It's not as bad here, not yet anyway.

Saint Nick

05-24-2007, 03:33 PM

So far so good with bugs. There were two mosquitoes in my room at Watson Lake, and I killed them both. One tried to bite me unsuccessfully.

I think it's probably still a bit too cold for the bugs to come out in full force, but it's only a matter of time now.

In summer 2005 I rode through Manitoba bug swarms, but I don't remember any biting me. Just hundreds of dragonflys and other winged critters splattered all over my leathers, giving it that fresh just-dog-barfed-on-look. It's not as bad here, not yet anyway.
Steve,
Many different types of mosquitoes exist, some only attack
animals, some thrive in below freezing temperatures!!!
They will eventually get you Stevie!!!

ORYX

05-24-2007, 07:26 PM

Looking through your pictures makes me want to go out and buy a dualsport, keep up the endurance rides!

counter_strike

05-24-2007, 11:23 PM

Steve

do you see other motorcycles on the road or you are the only one within 10000 miles radius?

CoolDaddyGroove

05-25-2007, 05:00 AM

Wow Steve, you plan on selling the bike and flying back? LOL

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:10 PM

No Frank, I ain't selling the bike and flying back. So far it's been pretty good, ony rained on twice, snowed on once, and the rest has been mostly clear blue sailing but cold in the mornings.

I left Whitehorse at 7:00 a.m. this morning, and rode under clear skies but in a semi-hypothermic state for about 3 hours. By 11:00 a.m. I was stripping off layers and feeling warmer. By late afternoon, around Tok I was suffering from near heat stroke. WTF??? In Fairbanks, everyone's in shorts and I was sweating bullets. I read a sign that said 88 degrees F (is that even possible? maybe just my fazed frame of mind by then).

950 km in 12 hours with stops, and getting mildly lost.

Here's some morning shots. Beautiful to gaze at from the saddle, the sheer immensity of it all. Not so fun to ride through though, more long straights.

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:15 PM

OK, this was the highlight of the day, just past Haines Junction in the Yukon. Biggest lake I have ever seen, it just went on and on for I don't know how long.

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:18 PM

Love this place. Too bad most of it is frozen, or broken ice flows, so you don't really want to swim it and can't boat in it either ... not now anyway.

marclapierre

05-25-2007, 09:23 PM

Whoa steve, it look beautiful up there!
How was the weather overall? looks sunny, but was it warm?

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:23 PM

I don't really know the town, so I didn't know what to take pics of. Did you know that May, 2007 is Asian Heritage Month in Whitehorse? Mostly Japanese who were settling here early in the 20th century, and only a few Chinese in the beginning.

I couldn't resist the restaurant name, but I didn't eat there.

Crap, is everything expensive the farther north you go. I was buying apples @ $4.99/lb. and bananas @ $3.99/lb. in Whitehorse.

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:28 PM

Crossing over from Beaver Creek into Alaska. The scenery and vegetation definitely changed, as did the road quality. Here's few views from the saddle.

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:30 PM

Mmmm, bugs for lunch. After a while there's little point in scraping them off anymore.

greenboy

05-25-2007, 09:31 PM

Forest fire. I hope it wasn't man-made. The only blight on the landscape all day.

Hiroki

05-25-2007, 09:54 PM

Man I envy you. When i younger and went way up north for "everclear" it was a test for me.
I see now I missed the whole point of getting there.

Way to go, I'll be doing it again Steve at a comfortable pace the next time.

:thumbup

PilotPete

05-25-2007, 11:57 PM

I've been following your thread and I must say thanks very much for sharing your experiences with all of us. I have flown over many of the destinations you are talking about, but never have I even considered getting there via a motorcycle! This is definitly different from the average sunday loop ride!!

I'm humbled by your ride "up North"!

Pete

Thumper 8

05-26-2007, 07:27 AM

Pluto

05-26-2007, 07:40 AM

From the looks of the road quality in the pics so far, it looks like to could have taken a sportbike so far?

Thinking of catching up, maybe? :D

waterman

05-26-2007, 08:23 AM

...multiple layers, heated vest, hippo hands and insulated gloves are a must.....Don't tell me a copy of the Watson Lake Gazette stuffed down the front of your leathers isn't adequate! Magnificent pics, Steve.

Squire

05-26-2007, 08:30 AM

Thanks for the updates Steve... brings back memories of my (car) trip up to Whitehorse. We returned down the Cassiar Hwy to Stewart - I think you mentioned that you'd be heading back that way. It's such beautiful country. Did you stop at the Liard Hot Springs???

Looking forward to the next installment. Be safe.

greenboy

05-26-2007, 09:21 AM

Nice pics Steve - good to see the weather gods are smiling on you.

So, how is the bike holding up? How is tire wear - and has your gas mileage improved? I suppose you may do an oil change in Alaska - I imagine your only maintenance so far is the occasional chain adjustment?

I guess on those long straight stretches, you wish you had an extra 20 or 30 hp? If it wasn't for the scenery, I am sure boredom must be a factor - did you take an mp3 player with you?

From the looks of the road quality in the pics so far, it looks like to could have taken a sportbike so far?

Stay safe.

Tony:

1. Bike's doing well, but it's mostly dirty although I washed it yesterday, heh. Rear tire at just under 4,000 km to Fairbanks is hitting the first part of the wearbars. I'll be good to Prudhoe Bay and back (maybe), but will need new shoes once I get back to Fairbanks (about 1,600 km round trip). I'm going to look for an oil change place today.

2. HP doesn't mean squat. I'm cruising on the clearest stretches at 110 - 115 km/h only. With stock windshield, and a.m. windchill factors, I don't really care to be going much faster than that. You can also enjoy scenery slightly better at lower speeds (what a concept - !).

3. So far I'd say about 92.3% of the roads to Fairbanks are passable with an ordinary road bike, but the remaining 7.7% you just don't want to do it: 15 km stretches of gravel with oily muck added in for good measure; potholes, ruts and rollercoaster whoop-de-doos, some well-marked some not marked at all. The Killer's great for those and I couldn't imagine sport-biking it through those sections unless I suddenly decided I was going to win the lottery today, or narrowly miss being struck by lightning. Oh yeah, and my a.m. snow day earlier this week would've been a little testy on a sportbike, not to mention the rain to say the least. Oh, and luggage you say? On a GSXR600? Har har. Maybe a sport tourer.

___________

Today I'm cooling my heels in Fairbanks. Doing laundry, looking for an oil change, looking for a church, planning the last leg to Prudhoe Bay. It was bright out at midnight last night, and the sun just sort of sits there on the horizon and keeps everything a soothing dim-but-not-so-dimly-lit sky. If I'm up again that late I'll take a picture.

silverD

05-26-2007, 09:26 AM

Great journey so far Steve!!

Mutate Now!

05-26-2007, 10:10 AM

Oh, and luggage you say? On a GSXR600? Har har. Maybe a sport tourer..

Hey! At least my GSXR has a trunk, and not a wallet/insurance holder like all these new bikes have... As a matter of fact, I have fit a full sized styrofoam take out container with room to spare in there!

Your trip updates are awesome, Steve! It almost feels like I'm there with you, except I enjoy the roads/towns/scenery from the comfort of my home, free of bugs, snow/rain, cold, and the soreness I get comes from sitting in front of the laptop for too long...

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:10 PM

Considering how good I've had it in the past few days, including today, it's hard to believe tomorrow I will be in rain, snow and mud as I approach Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay. The town of Deadhorse is about 20 miles from Prudhoe Bay itself, which is an oilfield on the Arctic Ocean coast. The permanent population is less than 100, but there are a few thousand oilfield workers going through here all the time. And a few nutbar motorcyclists (I don't know any).

I called the Prudhoe Bay Hotel and the Cariboo Inn, and secured a room for 2 nights and a Memorial Day tour of the oilfield at Prudhoe Bay itself. I'm told can't actually go in the ocean though because of freezing and sh*t visibility. Usually all us stupid tourists go running into the ocean just for the sake of it. This could be anti-climatic but who cares, I'm here and I've got time on my hands. I'm sure you'd all do the same.

So today I am kicking back in Fairbanks and sort of mentally steeling myself for some pretty adverse riding tomorrow. Will go to church tonight too to ask someone to watch over me. The hotel staff at Deadhorse tell me it's 29F / 20F with windchill, and lots more mud than usual, but "it's getting better" (:eek ).

Here's a few snaps I took today of Fairbanks.

The first is city hall and the main police station. The second is the veteran's memorial park. Monday is Memorial Day in the USA in case you didn't know (I didn't).

The third and fourth are the church I found.

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:16 PM

Most of these pics I took are either on or just off Cushman Street, which is a main business district route. Not like Georgia and Burrard in Vancouver, but a hub all the same.

The first is a typical street scene.

The second and third are, I believe, the new and the old court houses (?). The old court house, if that's what it is, is combined with a post office.

The fourth is the Fairbanks fire station, or at least one of them. I wonder what these guys do in the winter when it's so cold that flames probably freeze?

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:22 PM

Don't tell me a copy of the Watson Lake Gazette stuffed down the front of your leathers isn't adequate! Magnificent pics, Steve.

The heated vest is a bit of a joke, but nice to have anyway. Newspaper actually works better. With a vest, your core is still cold, and all you really feel is the surface of your chest and back being warmed, and even then only a little. Don't depend on electrics, it's the layers that really count and yeah, newspaper is still king!

Here's a KLR sighting in Fairbanks, hiding in the shadows. Good to see the Red Tractor Club has some remnants up here. There are a few bikes up on the highways, especially when it's sunny and the cruisers come out.

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:26 PM

I don't know what that blue thing is, it has two wheels, plastics and the knobbies are all worn off. But somewhow I got this vague deja vu feeling when I walked by it. Must have been something in a different or former life - :p. Anyone know what it is?

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:31 PM

Whoa, glad I didn't miss this thread. Steve, I am so envious! Okay, well actually I'm not the least bit envious ... but good for you, ya crazy bastard!!!

Come back in one piece. Miss ya buddy.

Hey Dog:

It's been pretty warm so far for Eskimo Boy ... when I'm not moving.

Please post up a picture of the latest Fluff du Jour, I've been staring at much natural scenery recently. :cool

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:37 PM

This is a pic I took on Sunday May 20 in Prince George. Machinist insisted, so here you go ...

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:41 PM

The first pic is the Dawson Creek Safeway, with one of my healthier lunches. Getting ready to tackle the first part of the Alaska Highway, built by the Americans in the 1940's in a really short time, considering its length (to Fairbanks - ? - don't quote me).

The second pic is a typical tourist trophy pic, 2 minutes from the Safeway. I couldn't resist.

I'm pretty sure I took these on Monday May 21.

greenboy

05-26-2007, 01:57 PM

Machinist

05-26-2007, 03:41 PM

This is a pic I took on Sunday May 20 in Prince George. Machinist insisted, so here you go ...

Good to see you with Mr PG :D The trip so far looks like it Has been Great :rider Keep the Pictures comeing :thumbup

TheDudette ZX9

05-26-2007, 06:35 PM

Thanks for leaving this thread here. Machinist started it and I don't really know where it belongs.

The thread was started with the original intention of me keeping a few people I know on here, and not on BCSB, informed that I am still alive and breathing. And I didn't want to e-mail and call eleventy dozen people regularly. Now I've just turned it into a picture log, and am having fun with it.

There really isn't a sport bike angle to this thread, except maybe if you look at it from the perspective of someone making the trip (me), who is a sportbike rider at heart. I could have joined and posted up on many of the excellent dualsport or adventure rider forums out there. But I chose BCSB instead, because this is where all my riding buds hang out, and I'm not much of an adventure rider (or sportbike rider for that matter).

Steve

Hey Steve....can you believe that I just found out a few days ago about this thread......duhhhh!!! I've been too busy working to even log on.
But what a pleasure to read your adventure and look at your great pictures. Specially the one of the lake just past Haines Junction......didn't it look just like the pictures I showed you but the mountains on mine were way more "snowy".
I'm so happy for you and so proud....yes ...proud....of your determination.!!! :bowdown Great challenge and great "endurance". I can't wait to hear about the ride to your final destination.
Whatch out for the "fn" truckers....they're all mentals..... :evil
Can't wait for your return and get to see more pictures and hear more stories...take care and be safe!! :thumbup

greenboy

05-26-2007, 08:54 PM

Linda!!!! I saw a small convoy of two huge trucks and two small pilot vehicles, got me thinking ...

Actually, the truckers at the stops have been pretty helpful, telling me what to expect up ahead on the road, when we've been travelling in opposite directions. When on the road though and I see one coming from behind I just get the heck outta the way, and so far all is good.

I'm off to Deadhorse tomorrow, giving myself 12 hours to cover about 800 km. The funny thing is it never seems to get dark out, it was still light out at midnight last night in Fairbanks. That means you can basically ride most hours of the day and the night. Weird stuff, really screws with your head at first.

I'm booked in at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel, and also for an oilfield/Arctic Ocean tour for Monday.

You were right. The area past (northwest) of Haines Junction, Yukon is un-freaking-believable, especially the Kluane National Park area.

____________

Here are some shots in Fairbanks this afternoon. Today's lesson is:

BATH + FRESH OIL & FILTER + 80 degrees F = ONE HAPPY KLR.

(Ask me again tomorrow).

dog44

05-26-2007, 09:16 PM

It's been pretty warm so far for Eskimo Boy ... when I'm not moving.Thou art made of sterner stuff than most. What's next on the Greenboy Masochistic Todo List?

[Okay, new pics are up in the usual place]

RiceRocket

05-26-2007, 09:34 PM

Steve, great to see that your trip has been great so far. I'm envious. Thanks for the pics of Whitehorse. Next can you take some pics of igloos and eskimo pie.

MaverickPrince

05-26-2007, 09:34 PM

Hey Steve, a fantastic adventure you've got going and thanks for the constant picture log updates.

So what kind of $$$ budget have you set aside to do a trip like this? Would be inspiration (and evaluation) for the rest of us that would consider something like this in the future...

TheDudette ZX9

05-26-2007, 09:48 PM

BATH + FRESH OIL & FILTER + 80 degrees F = ONE HAPPY KLR

I bet it was happy....and with this kind of temperature, I'm sure it wasn't only the KLR that was smiling!!!
The gixher is still sleeping. MEA CULPA...MEA CULPA...MEA MAXI CULPA!!!

jeckyll

05-26-2007, 10:25 PM

Steve: Glad the weather is holding out! 80F is unbelievably warm.

Ride safe.

Bjorn

sushigrl

05-26-2007, 10:46 PM

a palm tree, flower basket, white buildings ….. something wrong with this picture. steve, you sure you are up north?

Torch

05-26-2007, 11:08 PM

Hey Steve, WOW! Thanks for posting up the photos. After viewing those I may just have to plan a trip up there some time. Weather looks like it has really been cooperating for you, hopefully you will continue to see sunshine at midnight. I love the fire station pic, those americans do build them right don't they? My station is the main one here and we are only a quarter that size.

Hope you continue to have a great trip, I'll continue enjoying reading of your adventure and seeing those midnight shots.

Drive safe, see ya when you get back,
Torch:thumbup

Thumper 8

05-27-2007, 08:10 AM

a palm tree, flower basket, white buildings ….. something wrong with this picture. steve, you sure you are up north?

He must be using my $0.99 compass. I think he will be in Cabo tonight or tomorrow :D

TheDudette ZX9

05-27-2007, 10:15 AM

He must be using my $0.99 compass. I think he will be in Cabo tonight or tomorrow :D

You knew it would be a great tool for him!!! Obviously he knows how to use it just fine.............:banghead

greenboy

05-28-2007, 09:53 AM

So yesterday I rode about 800 km from Fairbanks, and arrived in Deadhorse 13 hours, several climate zones, every conceivable type of road surface, and one crash, later.

Deadhorse is an oilfield town, the main population is pretty small, with a few thousand migrant oilpatch workers going through here. All the 4x4's here are coated in calcium chloride and other various muck, very different than your typical Landrover parked at Park Royal Shopping Centre.

The housekeeper up here at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel, Richard, confirmed to me that I am the first rider up this season, wooo hooo!!! :band People all ask if I ride a BMW, I tell them no, I'm on a Kawasaki budget.

I can't post any pics today, no USB port, so I'll just do a write up. I will post up pics of the Dalton Highway when I get back to Fairbanks. I have a few hours to kill until my obligatory Arctic Ocean tour. You can't go there by any other means, the oil company controls the area pretty carefully, I presume for security reasons. I had to go through a drivers licence security clearance first to make sure I'm not a convicted mass murderer, or member of a terrorist operative cell.

greenboy

05-28-2007, 10:21 AM

The Dalton Highway starts about 100 miles north of Fairbanks. In those first 100 miles out of Fairbanks, lots of sunshine (cold though) and nice twisties finally. I actually saw almost no widlife today, the whole length to Deadhorse which was totally unexpected. At Coldfoot, I was warned of a 1,000 lb. blonde Grizzly who had no fear of semi-trucks up the road about 5 miles, but he never appeared.

Anyway, at about 100 miles out of Fairbanks, is the beginning of the Dalton Highway, a 414 mile stretch to Deadhorse. Welcome to riding like I have never experienced. I came across all temperatures and weather systems including:

- sunny and warm
- freezing and miserable
- strong winds with no vegetation to block or impede its flow
- rain and frozen rain, sometimes sideways
- snow
- fog and frozen fog (the latter, really weird stuff)
- mixtures of any of the above.

At the same time, the road surfaces would shift from:

- paved (haha, it's a relative term)
- unpaved
- dirt
- gravel ranging from fine (close to sand), to coarse, to just plain nasty
- big rocks, small rocks, mixed rocks
- dry calcium chloride, used for dust control, great when dry
- wet calcium chloride (CCCRRAPP!!!!!! :eek :surrender :knife).

Now imagine riding through the above weather and road conditions, each of which shifts and changes within minutes, sometimes without warning, sometimes within a matter of minutes or even 100 feet, and you get a remote idea of what the road's like. This is not your ordinary Sunday ride to Starbucks.

The only constant was that throughout the day it got colder and worse. I distinctly remember Atigun Pass as the seminal turning point when I said to myself for the first time, "What were you thinking coming up here, you f*cking idiot!!" That's when the temperature felt like it dropped from moderately cool to bone-chilling freezing on a small climb about 3 minutes in length. It was like being on another planet, no one around forever at times. The last 244 mile stretch from Coldfoot to Deadhorse (before Atigun Pass) is the longest stretch of miserable riding imaginable - there are no stops, and almost less traffic.

A bit about wet calcium chloride over what used to be a dirt road. If you want to replicate the feeling, try spreading mud and clay over your favourite ice rink surface (not flat of course, and make sure you engineer in some turns too). Then mix in ample quantities of oil slick and voila, go to town! Especially fun on downhill descents, straight or curved. Repeat for 100 km at a time, turn the temperature down to freezing, with wickedly strong winds, and you're good to go. Yep, I have no idea why I set out to do this, and just can't wait to get out there again tomorrow for the return trip back. :(

For those I ride with at home, you will probably never hear me bitch or gripe aout weather or road conditions in the Lower Mainland again. I think I just grew a new pair yesterday. I really don't need to do this again tomorrow for personal fulfilment, but unfortunately there's no other way out.

Peace.

Machinist

05-28-2007, 10:44 AM

As I was reading about Today's Adventure I could not help but think to Myself :alien You get to do it all over again on your way back :D
Keep up the Good work :hangman

VictorEric

05-28-2007, 10:54 AM

Stevie, the Real Trooper award goes to you! :bowdown Keep it up.

You know I'd be there with you if I could get away. :lolup

greenboy

05-28-2007, 11:03 AM

Oh yeah, that. I'll post some pictures later, it really wasn't that bad. The tumble happened about 80 miles onto the Dalton Highway, while the temps and skies were still friendly. At that point, what happens is that the road transitions from paved to dirt and paved again, time after time after time. Everytime a vehicle goes off the paved portion onto the dirt portion, when it's dry as it was at that moment, a dust cloud kicks up (no calcium chloride used at that point for dust control).

So anyway I was riding behind a semi-tractor trailer, I thought far enough behind, but obviously not.

(A note on semi-tractors on the Dalton Highway. I didn't bother passing even one of them. The few I saw they were all faster than me, and all came up from behind me and not vice versa. Even when they slowed for the uphill portions, there was no point passing them because they would pick up again with ease, even through the curves and no matter what the road surface. Only the uphill portions slowed them down, pretty much nothing else.)

80 miles onto the Dalton Highway, the semi in front of me went from paved to unpaved surface as described above and kicked up a huge dust cloud which I suddenly found myself in. I think we were travelling about 100 km/h when this happened. Anyway I was completely blinded by "brown out", and so braked to slow in case the truck decided to stop. I must have panicked and grabbed too much front brake (idiot) because down I went. The bike ended up on its left side, I tumbled ahead of it and I think I either rolled or face-planted based on damage to my (previously) brand new helmet, which is now missing a clip, scratched on the front visor, and cracked on the chin vent piece.

The leather versus rubber glove debate also came to a crashing halt. The inside palm of my left hand, clad in leather, did its job well. Rubber would have not been a pretty sight. So the rubberware is going into the garbage tonight, or maybe one of the oilpatch guys up here can use them.

The KLR faired about as well:

- cracked and broken off left rad cover (plastics only, the aftermarket rad guard underneath did it's job well, and is worth its weight in gold - the rad and fan assembly are both fully preserved)
- scratched everything including left handguard and front fender
- bent or mis-aligned forks
- slightly bent handlebars (I wanted to get some Renthals anyway)
- torn left nylon hippo hand.

I'm impressed with my Wolfman Expedition soft bags, considering the bike went down and slid on gravel a short distance on its left side including with lots of weight directly on the left side of the Wolfman bag, which is no worse for wear as a result.

I rode for a distance to Coldfoot with bent handlebars and bent/misaligned forks. After about 50 miles, the askew handlebar and instrument cluster getup at the 11 o'clock position just felt normal. I had time to think about it for a couple of hours, and decided the best thing to do would be to turn around and go home ... yeah right, I had you there I bet. As I rode I reverted back to my third grade schoolyard days thinking. Do you remember how you used to crash your first bicycles and bend the handlebars out of alignment? The way to fix it back then was to push the front wheel against the side of a building while wrenching on the handlebars until everything re-aligned perfectly. I ended up doing just that against the side of a backhoe bucket in Coldfoot, while its owner Brent looked on and eye-balled the re-alignment which I could actually feel moving. We had a good laugh, and I mostly re-aligned everything for now except that the handlebars are still bent.

I don't think I was injured. Immediately I felt as if someone had clocked me on the chin with a clean uppercut. And for the rest of the day my throat was sore (bruised?), in the exact same spot where my cold had produced a dry tickly spot, only now it was actually hurting especially when swallowing. No musculoskeletal injuries to speak of (absence of signs of reduced range of motion, neurological deficits, spasm or deformity), just a slightly stiff left wrist and neck this a.m. But I imagine that could easily be just from the fatigue of riding yesterday.

May 27, 2007 goes down in my personal history as the roughest ride I have ever done in my life. Compliments of the Dalton Highway, Alaska. I can't believe I have to do it all again tomorrow. What have I learned? First, slow down. Second, stay far, far away from semi-trucks. Third, dress warm earlier than I think I need it, with more layers than I think I need. 'Tis better to bake than it is to freeze.

Cheers.

jeckyll

05-28-2007, 11:14 AM

Glad you're in one piece Steve!

greenboy

05-28-2007, 11:18 AM

a palm tree, flower basket, white buildings ….. something wrong with this picture. steve, you sure you are up north?

Damn! Busted while I was kicking back on Miami Beach stealing other people's photos off the 'net.

No really Anna, this was taken in Fairbanks the other day, as with the 80F sign picture. After riding the Dalton Highway yesterday, I thought I'd landed on a different planet.

bacchus40

05-28-2007, 11:21 AM

crap!!! damn i'm glad you're okay buddy, this is just too weird, :(

my buddy went down on his vmax on saturday afternoon tween meritt & spences bridge, my folks got rear ended by a guy clocking 200 clicks down in the us headed to Boston early this morning!!! what the heck is going on!!!

the count so far, one busted up vmax, bent handlebars same as yer KLR; said KLR re-aligned by expert kid with chops!!! lol... and one very busted now DECEASED Acura TLS!!! rear bumper rubbed shoulders with the tires over 2 feet away.... geez... at least all are okay, that makes it FIVE humans still walking around with one more tale to tell {and noh thats not counting the idiot who rear ended my uncle and folks!! bastard rott in hell!!!} THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD!!!!:thumbup

greenboy

05-28-2007, 11:22 AM

Glad you're in one piece Steve!

My bike is so filthy now, it'd do you proud Jeckyll. Have you been doing any sportbike rides lately? Chris told me you guys went for one recently. How I'd like to do one ride like that tomorrow instead of what awaits me. :D

greenboy

05-28-2007, 11:25 AM

crap!!! damn i'm glad you're okay buddy, this is just too weird, :(

my buddy went down on his vmax on saturday afternoon tween meritt & spences bridge, my folks got rear ended by a guy clocking 200 clicks down in the us headed to Boston early this morning!!! what the heck is going on!!!

the count so far, one busted up vmax, bent handlebars same as yer KLR; said KLR re-aligned by expert kid with chops!!! lol... and one very busted now DECEASED Acura TLS!!! rear bumper rubbed shoulders with the tires over 2 feet away.... geez... at least all are okay, that makes it FIVE humans still walking around with one more tale to tell!!! THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD!!!!:thumbup

Thanks Digby. My crash wasn't too bad, I didn't hit the back of the semi or go cliff-diving which were my worst fears. I think I might have hurt the gravel and dirt with my bike and body though.

Hope your friend and family are all doing well.

Steve

jeckyll

05-28-2007, 11:47 AM

T.....I distinctly remember Atigun Pass as the seminal turning point when I said to myself for the first time, "What were you thinking coming up here, you f*cking idiot!!" ...
The last 244 mile stretch from Coldfoot to Deadhorse (before Atigun Pass) is the longest stretch of miserable riding imaginable - there are no stops, and almost less traffic.
.....

Yep, I have no idea why I set out to do this, and just can't wait to get out there again tomorrow for the return trip back. :(

If only you'd had friends who would have warned you (repeatedly) and told you not to go this early in the season :itchyscra

For those I ride with at home, you will probably never hear me bitch or gripe aout weather or road conditions in the Lower Mainland again.....

I'm going to hold you to that ;)

Seriously, be smart & careful on the trip back tomorrow.

RiceRocket

05-28-2007, 12:25 PM

Wow, glad you're ok...you crazy nut! Can't wait to read your writeup on the Arctic Ocean tour and return on the Dalton Hwy.

I had to go through a drivers licence security clearance first to make sure I'm not a convicted mass murderer, or member of a terrorist operative cell.
Inquiring minds want to know...how'd you erase your record?

Phibber

05-28-2007, 01:19 PM

Hey Steve...sorry to hear about your tumble. I'm glad your OK , but hey it will be lasting memory years down the road! Have fun the rest of the way and stay away from those Semi's.

Saint Nick

05-28-2007, 01:52 PM

I guess you're not gonna be on our team after this little stunt..

sushigrl

05-28-2007, 02:11 PM

80 miles onto the Dalton Highway, the semi in front of me went from paved to unpaved surface as described above and kicked up a huge dust cloud which I suddenly found myself in. I think we were travelling about 100 km/h when this happened. Anyway I was completely blinded by "brown out", and so braked to slow in case the truck decided to stop. I must have panicked and grabbed too much front brake (idiot) because down I went. The bike ended up on its left side, I tumbled ahead of it and I think I either rolled or face-planted based on damage to my (previously) brand new helmet, which is now missing a clip, scratched on the front visor, and cracked on the chin vent piece.

we’re are all on this trip vicariously so don’t you be doing this again! glad you’re ok, more or less.

TheDudette ZX9

05-28-2007, 02:50 PM

(A note on semi-tractors on the Dalton Highway. I didn't bother passing even one of them. The few I saw they were all faster than me, and all came up from behind me and not vice versa. Even when they slowed for the uphill portions, there was no point passing them because they would pick up again with ease, even through the curves and no matter what the road surface. Only the uphill portions slowed them down, pretty much nothing else.)

Didn't I warn you about these fn mental drivers!!!????? :D

But really, I'm so happy you reached your destination but even happier that you're okay.....

greenboy

05-28-2007, 04:15 PM

Linda, the driver didn't do anything wrong or even aggressive. Purely a result of my own stupidity. As you know, it's not like toodling long behind a truck on Highway 1 from Hope to Abbotsford.

Thanks peeps for your replies.

Thumper 8

05-28-2007, 04:59 PM

Linda, the driver didn't do anything wrong or even aggressive. Purely a result of my own stupidity.

You really didn't need to go that far to dump the KLR - I found a nice soft, muddy resting spot near Squamish where I could easily show an equivalent level of stupidity, although I was killing myself laughing at the time (methinks you were not laughing?) - picked it up and still had time for a coffee afterwards at you-know-where :D

Glad to hear you are OK - it could have been much worse, but those KLR's do crash well, don't they? Nice job straightening the front end.

Good luck on the return trip - take it easy and make it home in one piece.

As I read this, I keep thinking about the old saying about "Mad dogs and Englishmen", then I remember where you were born......... London, UK!

Take it easy and we will hoist a brewed cup in your honour tomorrow night at you-know-where :thumbup

TheDudette ZX9

05-28-2007, 05:08 PM

Purely a result of my own stupidity.

I was being facetious..........:imwithstu :D

michael

05-28-2007, 06:00 PM

helluva an adventure.
appreciate you're posting this.

Machinist

05-28-2007, 06:30 PM

I recieved a Phone Call from STEVE Today and Despite his Misshap on the DAULTON Hwy he is in Good SPIRITS and feeling good , He will be returning to FAIRBANK'S tomorrow.:rider

Hiroki

05-28-2007, 06:32 PM

Keep on going Steve don't give up!

Torch

05-28-2007, 06:39 PM

Hey Steve,

Good to hear you are okay and can continue your trip. Talking about building memories!!

Enjoy your (safe) return trip.

Torch

dog44

05-28-2007, 07:23 PM

We are not worthy!
:bowdown

greenboy

05-28-2007, 07:29 PM

I wish I could post up my pics, but still can't. I'm not sure whether to edit the previous posts, or just add on new ones, will wait and see. Any thoughts? By the time I get back to Fairbanks I will have added about 100 pics, but of course not everything will get posted.

Here's what I did and thought about today in Deadhorse.

Oilfield Tour

So I took the Cariboo Inn Hotel tour to the Arctic Ocean today. It was on an old school bus but it's the first vehicle I have been in with doors and a heater in a couple of weeks. What a concept. The tour bus was filled with tourists who had come via luxury coach from Fairbanks. The tour guide was apologizing that the school bus was not nearly as comfortable as their Holland America tour bus. As far as I was concerned it felt like I was in a presidential Rolls Royce limo and I had to resist the urge to drop to my knees and kiss the floorboards. One lady compained that some dust got in through the ventillation, and she held up her glasses to show everyone. It was all I could do to exercise self-control and muster the inner strength not to strangle her on the spot.

Anyway, the ocean is still frozen, but we went to the "beach" anyway. The ice is expected to break up and flow away in about a week.

The whole tour started off with a 20 minute video presentation put on by the oil company that arranges the tours. Nice little propaganda flick about how the oil companies as good corporate citizens time their drilling and exploration activities to cause as little disruption to the local wilife and tundra as possible. Their biggest (stated) concerns are their workers' safety and the environment, complete with pictures of Russian snow geese flying low across the frozen tundra to eskimo music in the background. Very touching except there was no mention about global warming or shareholder-value-versus-unsustainable-inflation, and I thought best not to ask.

Before 9/11 anyone could drive to the beach but not anymore for security reasons. There was even a little Checkpoint Charlie run by British Petroleum that we had to pass in and out of. All along the way are the various wells and drilling sites, but all way off in the distance. I learned there are about 1000 different oil wells out here, and that the perma-frost is 1,500 to 2,000 feet thick. I slept on the bus most of the time, out of sheer comfort and not boredom. Not your average day at the beach.

Memorial Day

Today is Memorial Day for the USA. These are a pretty proud people, and whether you agree with their foreign policies or not, it's still their sons, fathers, daughters, etc. who are giving, or who have given, their lives for a way of life they believe in. It's ironic that I should be taking an oilpatch tour this day, some would say that's what the fight's all about these days. On the other hand, the Alaskan oilfields and ultimately the pipeline were developed in the 1970's in response to the perceived oil crisis during that time. One perspective is that the Americans are trying to power their (and our) capitalistic tendencies and massive consumerist appetites with resources in their own back yards, as opposed to relying on Middle East supplies.

Medical Note on Dehydration

I read an interesting medical bulletin in the hotel lobby about dehydration today. I typically associate dehydration with sunshine, high temperatures and tropical zones or temps. However, the bulletin pointed out that it's a big issue up north here. The reason is simple, the further north you go, the less humidity there is in the air nearly to point of zero where I am now. In fact it's dry as a freaking desert now that I think about it. That would explain my dry cough the last few days even though my cold is gone (?). That would also explain my hallucinations yesterday on the road when I kept seeing a semi truck following me way off in the distance, but never catching up with me, more apparent as the day wore on and the more desolate the terrain. It also explains the vast quantities of water, Gatorade, V8 and other juices and fluids I have been consuming these past few days.

Mortgage

On a selfish note, today is a personal banner day for me as the mortgage on my modest townhouse was being paid out as I lay on the snow-covered beach on the Arctic coast.

Squire

05-28-2007, 07:57 PM

Steve, I'm so glad to hear that you're okay after your mishap yesterday... you really are a trooper. :thumbup

Thanks for the updates - get back to us soon & safely. Oh, BTW, have you thought about hitting Russia while you're up there - just a hop, skip & a jump from where you are now!! Yeah, forget about it!! :laughing

Give a call if you get a chance... (collect)

AND... congrats on your mortgage-free day!! What an accomplishment.

jeckyll

05-28-2007, 09:09 PM

Mortgage free?

Does that mean it's time to buy yet another bike ... and another car? ;)

greenboy

05-29-2007, 11:17 PM

Back in Fairbanks today, from Deadhorse. Tons of pictures to load, will take some time but I'm kicking back in Fairbanks again for 2 nights, as I don't feel like getting up super early for the 950 km run to Whitehorse. The Dalton Highway really takes it out of you, I feel like some thugs beat the crap out of me.

If you ever get the chance, you should ride that highway. The scenery is incredible, words can't describe it, and in fact I don't think photographs do full justice to the immensity and beauty of it all.

Here's some before and after pics from the Fairbanks hotel I'm at. The first is when I left on Sunday a.m., the second is when I got back in this evening. Zip ties and duct tape forever!!!!!

greenboy

05-29-2007, 11:29 PM

So here's what you see setting out of Fairbanks northbound. The Hilltop Gas Station is your last chance until Coldfoot, about 240 miles away. Better fill 'er up. The next four photos show the first 100 miles or so, where the pavement and scenery are a lot like B.C. or Washington state. I say both places because although the site lines around the turns are good, the road surfaces are totally changing and unpredictable in the fashion most B.C. Lower Mainland riders have become accustomed to.

greenboy

05-29-2007, 11:34 PM

And then you reach the beginning of the Dalton Highway, 414 short miles to Deadfoot, with only one gas station/stop in between. The last pic is my KLR taking a rest from the trip.

greenboy

05-29-2007, 11:41 PM

Well, OK that's not entirely true. As a I mentioned before I crashed the KLR in a dust storm because I was following a semi truck too closely.

The first pic is another semi truck, moving in the opposite direction, giving you an idea of the dust these puppies can kick up when there's no calcium chloride dust control.

The rest are assorted photos of damage and such. The after-market radiator guard saved me from being totally stranded, I'm pretty sure the rad would have been torn off or at least bent and leaking, judging by the damage to the guard.

I f*cked up my brand new Arai XD helmet, missing pin bolt thing, cracked chin vent, cracked windshield, and strangely scratches on both sides of the upper visor. Face plants suck, if that's what I did I don't know I was too busy panicking and rolling around on the ground to take a picture.

The handlebar pic is, believe it or not, how it looked with the front wheel tracking straight. The cluster is fixed to the fork assembly, and should be level. This is before I fixed it, using my elementary school third grade technology.

greenboy

05-29-2007, 11:52 PM

Here's Brent's backhoe at Coldfoot. He let me use the side of the front bucket to jam my wheel against and crank the fork alignment back into place. The next day in Deadhorse, I re-attached the left side radiator cover using an equally high tech application of zip ties and duct tape.

She's good as new and ready for the showroom.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 12:04 AM

Atigun Pass is out of this world, you really feel like you're on another planet. Here's some pics I took on the way up north on Sunday, and back down south today.

The answer to dust, calcium chloride, has an unfortunate side effect. When wet, it's like riding on thick oily clay.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 12:15 AM

You know it's damned cold out when:

1. Your windshield ices over. No problem, you flip up the shield and and ride without it.

2. Problem still there, goggles freeze over.

3. Check out my iced jacket. Even my camera bag on my left jacket clip was iced.

Ironically, I never felt cold this morning. Seven layers helps. The only time I felt a chill is when I stopped to take a drink. When I removed a glove my hand nearly froze on the spot, and it took about 20 minutes gloved up to warm it up again.

These pics were all taken just south of Deadhorse. Yup, it's gonna be a cold one today (warm by their standards actually).

greenboy

05-30-2007, 12:27 AM

You should have seen this stuff yourself.

frontside5

05-30-2007, 12:55 AM

So the truth is I have no idea what I'm doing. I ignored or forgot most of the great advice given to me (too much information). My GPS consists of 2 maps

Steve I don't think we've met but you are an inspiration; man do you have some balls. I've immensely enjoyed following along here, especially liking the glimpse of what small town Alaska's like (a place that's always intrigued me but will probably never visit). Thanks for taking so many pics and keep at 'er! :thumbup

dog44

05-30-2007, 04:29 AM

Cold Weather Riding Re-DefinedYah dood, I can relate to your pain. Today by the pool an ice cube fell out of my girl's margarita and into my lap. Too harsh.

:D

Mutate Now!

05-30-2007, 06:58 AM

Glad to know you're okay. Have you been keeping track of the number of times the KLR has gone out from under you?

Out of curiosity. One of the pics (the one that has a Rough Road sign in it) appears to have the road on the left parallel to some sort of squiggly road(?) on the right. What's that?

And then you reach the beginning of the Dalton Highway, 414 short miles to Deadfoot, with only one gas station/stop in between.

Thumper 8

05-30-2007, 07:23 AM

Steve,

Glad you made it back to Fairbanks - Bjorn and I raised a couple of frosty brews in your name last night. Keep the updates coming...

jeckyll

05-30-2007, 09:27 AM

Steve,

Glad you made it back to Fairbanks - Bjorn and I raised a couple of frosty brews in your name last night. Keep the updates coming...

I believe our exact words for the toast were "May the dumb fuck make it back to Fairbanks alive"

:evilgrin

Glad you made it back to Fairbanks and great pictures!

Bjorn

GSP

05-30-2007, 10:50 AM

Out of curiosity. One of the pics (the one that has a Rough Road sign in it) appears to have the road on the left parallel to some sort of squiggly road(?) on the right. What's that?

That should be the pipeline.

Thanks for sharing, Steve! :rockon

Hiroki

05-30-2007, 04:17 PM

Steve your just like the energizer bunny.

:thumbup

greenboy

05-30-2007, 04:53 PM

That should be the pipeline.

Thanks for sharing, Steve! :rockon

And Brent wins the prize!!!! The pipeline comes and goes along the Dalton Highway. I think there are 11 main pump stations along the way which keep the oil moving from Prudhoe Bay south to Valdez (???), where it can be tankered out. Or maybe not Valdez, I'm not sure, some other ports instead. You can't actually go up to the pipeline and lick it or touch it, there's gates preventing that. Mind you there's so few people out here and the gates aren't super hard to ride around or climb over, so I probably could have. I think however the Alaska highways people would freak for security reasons if they saw anyone swinging naked from the pipelines.

I'm glad that all of you, including those I haven't met, can enjoy the pics too. But truthfully, words and not even pictures can begin to express the feeling of northern Alaska. It's like a huge living picture and you're right in it. It's frightening, it's beautiful, it's cold and lonely, all those things changing from moment to moment, mile by mile. The weather, although at its worst for me so far between Coldfoot and Deadhorse, changes in minutes from blue skies to rain to frozen fog, while the road surface beneath your tires constantly shifts from dry and course to oily slick and everything in between. Pavement is a rare commodity the further north and closer to Deadhorse you get.

We often talk as riders about respect for the road and how none of us can never really "own" it. In northern Alaska, at this time and for me, this is all too real. The Dalton Highway permitted me to pass over it, and even then it threw me off my ride twice just so I didn't ever even begin to entertain any thoughts of forgetting who's in charge.

Here's some pictures of:

1. me on the oilfield tour at Prudhoe Bay on May 28, 2007, the end of the line (just another day on the beach when the water is frozen solid but the ice flows should start to break soon - suntan lotion optional, Kitsilano beach bunnies replaced with Russian snow geese and a musk ox herd too far away to be photographed);

2. part of the three times daily food spread at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel, which is home to mostly the migrant shift oilpatch workers - these guys (and a few gals) eat like kings - there is an outright alcohol ban, and theft and littering are dealt with harshly, you get fired and black-listed for life if guilty of any of these infractions.

3. Fairbanks at 12:30 a.m. last night, yep 30 minutes after midnight - it was even brighter in Deadhorse 500 miles to the north but I forgot to snap any pics.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 04:59 PM

Here are a few pics of the place of pilgrimage.

Note the special attention to city planning.

The third pic is of me foot-racing the town Ferrari and I won, Wooo Hooo!!!!

The Arctic Ocean Access Restrictions came into play shortly after 9/11. The oilpatch would be a high risk target I presume. Before then, you could just ride, walk or drive around yourself. Now you have to pay the oil companies / hotels $36 USD for the privilege.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 05:31 PM

Red Tractor Club Takes Position No. 2 as Well

First two photos.

When I woke up yesterday (May 29, 2007) in Deadhorse, I went out to my bike and lo and behold look what I saw!! Biker #2 of the season, another red KLR. He apparently got in the evening before, and I was leaving that morning, so I never met him. There was no plate on the bike (probably fell off), but the hotel staff told me the rider was from somewhere in the USA and I don't mean Alaska. I left the rider a note with a message of goodwill and safe travels.

It was absolutely freezing and miserable when I left Deadhorse, and stayed that way for at least the first 4 hours. It took me about 7 hours to reach Coldfoot, about 245 miles south.

Campers, Semis, Highways Department People, Motorcyclist and Bicyclists

The above heading pretty much describes all vehicular traffic I saw travelling the Dalton Highway, especially semis, highways people and campers. I paced a Virgina couple pulling a camper trailer for half the day yesterday. Nice to know someone is always 5 to 20 minutes behind in case anything goes bad.

I saw three motorocyclists heading north as I was heading south yesterday. They were two BMW 1200GS-looking things, formally escorting a KLR650 in full JFK presidential fashion. Good to see everyone knows their place. :D

My hats off goes to the True Nutbars of the Highway though, the three lone separately travelling cyclists I saw on the Dalton Highway. The first of them I saw when I set out north from Fairbanks to Deadhorse on May 27. Two days later when I was returning back south, he was still travelling north. How these guys pedal, especially north of Coldfoot when the temps and winds and mud slick get absolutely brutal, will remain one of those mysteries I will never comprehend in this lifetime, or even the next. They made me feel like I was travelling first class via private Lear jet in comparison. I think there's a special wing just for bicyclists in the psychiatric ward. Re-adjust what you think is normal, or even brave - it's all relative.

The Killer Gets New Shoes

Last three photos.

Back in Fairbanks today, I visited Alaska Fun Centre on College Drive. New rear tire installed, an Avon Gripster. This is the KLR-equivalent of giving your wife/GF flowers when you've messed up. In this case, it was for all the wicked abuse hurled at my KLR over the past few days. Hopefully she loves me again.

A plug for Alaska Fun Centre in Fairbanks. They're a full Yammy / Kawi dealership, and provided great service. I told them I was passing through (again) and they took me in on practically no notice and installed my tire. On May 26, 2007 the day before I left for Deadhorse they sold me oil and a filter and lent me a drain pan so I could do my own oil in their parking lot as they were too busy that Memorial Day weekend. Cool people, they run a good ship. My experience at Lister Motor Sports, a Kawi dealer in Whitehorse, was the total opposite.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 06:39 PM

Here are a few more random shots, most if not all between Deadhorse and Coldfoot if I remember correctly:

1st is ... slick semi-wet road surface, loads of fun to ride on

2nd is ... cool mountain range, the peak on the left really is pointy

3rd is ... semi-iced frozen gravel hardpack, slightly more predictable than the wet slick stuff but tricky because just when you thought you had traction ...

4th is ... nice break in the weather, temps starting to rise a bit - one of my favourite pics, don't know why

5th is ... Atigun Pass, the elevation is about 4,600 feet - at those heights and that far up north, the earth's gravitational pull is all askew - the KLR is actually standing up perfectly normally on its side stand.

greenboy

05-30-2007, 06:51 PM

Three pics of the bustling urban pace of Coldfoot, Alaska. You can feel the life and electricity in the air; people in the streets, cigar girls in the cabarets; the commerce, music, arts and culture; the lights and the never-ending sounds of activity.

There's Berlinerluft, and there's the air in Coldfoot.

The next two pics are of my filthy KLR, for Jeckyll because I know he likes looking at dirty pictures and because he probably thought it an utter impossibility that my KLR could ever be fouler-looking than his.

jeckyll

05-30-2007, 07:06 PM

Steve: Good job man.

I'm sitting here with my wireless connection on my bachony in Kits looking a the cute girls walk past, and the squids out on the bikes in shorts and t-shirts thinking "Damn that Steve is nuts, I'm glad he's doing it, but wouldn't trade with him. And finally that KLR looks like it should" :D

I'm actually really looking forward to finding our how you like the gripster. I'm planning some longer rides next year on the KLR and am curious how you like it. It's currently my tire of choice.

Do you know yet when you'll be getting back to town? If possible I'll ride up a ways to meet you and 'escort you back' into Vancouver. Well, if it's not on a weekday (some of us have to work you know!).
Once you're back we'll have to get together with Tony and hear all your KLR - Adventure stories :D

Bjorn

greenboy

05-30-2007, 07:24 PM

Bjorn, I'm anticipating mostly road duties now on the trek home.

I was going to go back to Whitehorse tomorrow, but in the last 48 minutes I just decided I'll go through Denali National Park to see Mt. McKinley, then maybe stay in Anchorage. Or I might change my mind again when I wake up tomorrow, not sure at this point. You know that life is good when the biggest decisions of the day are: what should I eat for dinner? where should I ride to tomorrow?

Weeks ago I had originally planned to go to Inuvik from Whitehorse, time permitting, which conceivably it is. However I am thinking I've had my share of Arctic rides (one only, thanks very much) for this trip so I won't be doing it. That's partly why I went back to a road-oriented tire, and the Avon Slipster was the closest thing the bike shop had to the Kenda 761 it just replaced and which I quite liked. The Kenda lasted about 5,000 km including high highway miles to start off with, and then unusual abuse on the Dalton Highway which left a lot of strange little cuts and things on the remaining tread. Chances are the rear tire was fine for another 1,000 - 2,000 km but today I went out and purchased some peace of mind. I am keepng the front tire for now as it still has lots of life.

Did you know a new knobby or semi-knobby probably raises the KLR about 1.0 inch? I think I knew that in the back of my mind, but I nearly fell off when mounting my ride out of the bike shop parking lot.

Say hello to the Kits bunnies walking in front of your balcony. Please splash some water on them for me.

anoxion

05-30-2007, 07:32 PM

man i am so envious! looks like an amazing trip, have a safe rest of the journey

Machinist

05-30-2007, 07:37 PM

The next two pics are of my filthy KLR, for Jeckyll because I know he likes looking at dirty pictures and because he probably thought it an utter impossibility that my KLR could ever be fouler-looking than his

Your's still looks Better than his :rider But I prefer the way yours looked in My Garage when we Tuned up the Brakes before the trip :hopmad

Mutate Now!

05-30-2007, 08:31 PM

You know that life is good when the biggest decisions of the day are: what should I eat for dinner? where should I ride to tomorrow?

Amen to that, brother. Stay safe.

Hiroki

05-30-2007, 08:50 PM

They have internet way the f**k up there? :D

heisenberg9

05-30-2007, 08:59 PM

Great story, great pics but I am shaking my head. :) Hoping your bike stays upright for the remainder of the trip.

CountrySlicker

05-30-2007, 09:05 PM

They have internet way the f**k up there? :D

That's why they call it the "world-wide-web" it is all over the world! Wacky stuff!! :D

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:43 AM

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:44 AM

They have internet way the f**k up there? :D

And hot running water and electricity too! Pete, you'd be amazed.

Actually Fairbanks is a regular small-sized city. It's only when you get north of here that it gets kind of ... uhh ... desolate.

RiceRocket

05-31-2007, 10:07 AM

Damn, I don't know if I should be envious of you (because your biggest decisions of the day what to eat for dinner or where to ride to tomorrow; and mortgage free to boot) or envious that Bjorn is sitting on a balcony in Kits with a luscious view.

To the both of you (and your KLR clique rides)...:flip :flip :flip

Great to see your doing well Steve and taking time to venture off and explore other areas.

mark

05-31-2007, 10:42 AM

Slim Shadetree

05-31-2007, 01:11 PM

phew ! I just read the entire thread, thanks for the updates, pictures, stories and adventures. Stay safe and enjoy every moment. :cool

TheDudette ZX9

05-31-2007, 07:18 PM

Leaving Fairbanks this a.m., off to Anchorage via Denali National Park. If it's clear out, I'll take a picture from the peak of Mt. McKinley, a small hill located in the park.

Have fun at work, kids. Cheers.

Steve

Steve,

If you go to Anchorage, find the micro brewery on 5th street. I can't remember the name but beside good beer they have a "you won't believe the menue" for this kind of establishment. And on your way out, you'll see the glacier on which I ski-dooed for a few hours. If you need a place to crash, I have my friend who happens to have 3 cabins (very simple should I say) but I'm sure I could get you in contact with him. He's the one that has the glacier as a backyard. He's about 80 miles east of Palmer. And in Palmer there's a nice little family restaurant where you can have reindeer sausage for breaky.....pretty good...indeed!!

By the way, I was looking at your pic in your mirror.....now you know exactly what I was trying to do when I took mine. Isn't it just unreal up there??? I will be back....maybe not on a bike...but I will be back!!!

Take care and have a safe trip. Anchorage is pretty cool actually!!!

See you soon,

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:02 PM

Just got into Anchorage a couple of hours go, I won't be staying and taking in any sights though. Tomorrow I'm planning on riding to as close to Whitehorse as possible (about 1,000 km if I can complete it).

Hey Linda, I like taking the mirror pics so you can get an idea of what's behind too. Probably easier to do on a stopped motorcycle where I can manipulate and angle the mirror as I please, as opposed to a car/truck fixed mirror.

All paved roads today, with some strong winds being the biggest hazard. My plan was to ride to see Mt. McKinley but I didn't pull off into the park entrance because I was told that unless it's a perfectly clear day, you won't see the mountain. By the time I reached the park it was getting cloudier and cloudier and then it started raining.

Mostly an uneventful riding day, which after the past few days, was not such a bad thing. Here's a few shots, all south of Fairbanks but before reaching Denali National Park. I didn't bother taking any rain pics, it was too wet and I didn't feel like stopping, and had my camera packed away to keep it dry. So there.

The last two were good for a chuckle, it's of a motel and store called "Skinny Dick's Halfway Inn". :jerkoff Someone's got a sense of humour up north.

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:09 PM

Some more sights between Fairbanks and the Denali Park entrance, really windy around here. And not just one or two gusts but full on for about 1.5 to 2.0 hours. At times I had to slow right down to less than 80 km/h to gain some stability on otherwise perfect road surfaces.

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:16 PM

Hey Steve, WOW! Thanks for posting up the photos. After viewing those I may just have to plan a trip up there some time. Weather looks like it has really been cooperating for you, hopefully you will continue to see sunshine at midnight. I love the fire station pic, those americans do build them right don't they? My station is the main one here and we are only a quarter that size.

Hey Richard:

Here are two more Alaskan fire stations for you.

The first two are of a volunteer fire station in Ester, about 20 miles west of Fairbanks. I guess the volunteer stations don't get the same funding as the full city station in nearby Fairbanks. :p

The second two are in Willow (Willow Creek?), which is between Denali National Park and Anchorage.

Hope you enjoy.

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:22 PM

OK, kind of anti-climatic considering I never actually saw Mt. McKinley which is over 20,000 feet high and I think the highest mountain in North America (?).

I wish I had taken more pics of some of the weirder buildings I came across.

TheDudette ZX9

05-31-2007, 08:26 PM

Compare to where you've been the trip back to Whitehorse may be boring to you.....hi hi hi!!

Have a safe one and enjoy the ride!!!

greenboy

05-31-2007, 08:59 PM

Steve I don't think we've met but you are an inspiration; man do you have some balls. I've immensely enjoyed following along here, especially liking the glimpse of what small town Alaska's like (a place that's always intrigued me but will probably never visit). Thanks for taking so many pics and keep at 'er! :thumbup

I never thought I'd come up here either. It just kind of came together that way, in the last 6 months or so. It's worth it.

dog44

05-31-2007, 10:11 PM

Tomorrow I'm planning on riding to as close to Whitehorse as possibleHere's wishing you clear skies and smooth sailing the rest of the way, my friend!
:cool

Hiroki

05-31-2007, 10:53 PM

Steve I've got a cold beer and Hamburger waiting for you at my place AFTER you make friends with the GF again.
Keeeeeeeep on going man!!

:thumbup

Torch

06-01-2007, 12:11 AM

Hey Richard:

Here are two more Alaskan fire stations for you.

The first two are of a volunteer fire station in Ester, about 20 miles west of Fairbanks. I guess the volunteer stations don't get the same funding as the full city station in nearby Fairbanks.

The second two are in Willow (Willow Creek?), which is between Denali National Park and Anchorage.

Hope you enjoy.

Steve, I love the photos, particularly the firefighter board giving directions. Those firehalls are very typical of the volunteer halls everywhere...think of the one in Acme. The countryside up there certainy looks amazing, if I do a trip up there though I think i'll go in late August!!! Either that or I'll take with me a heated vest, hand grips, boot warmers, leg warmers, left and right ear warmers, sunglass defrosters and left and right airbags to give the bike a gentle resting place when it decides to take a rest.

Keep the rubber side down the rest of the way home,

Richard

greenboy

06-01-2007, 07:26 PM

I made a pivotal decision at the Tok junction in Alaska today. That's the point where you decide whether to enter the Yukon via Beaver Creek (and on to Whitehorse), or slightly north to Dawson City.

I chose Beaver Creek. If I had gone to Dawson City, I would've then tackled Inuvik, but something just told me it might not be wise. So for once I made a rational decision, and opted to forgo a second Arctic trek. It was the thought of something screwing up badly in the Arctic zone that did it for me. I felt like that most of the time travelling north of Coldfoot to Deadhorse in Alaska, and it's not a warm fuzzy feeling at all. It's the only time in fact that I have ever ridden and felt scared to death. I'd do it again, but not alone. Or maybe when it warms up.

Anyway I rode about 700 km today, from Anchorage along the Glenn Highway to Tok to the Yukon border, and then to Beaver Creek which is the first town this side of Canada. I can't post any pics though yet because this computer has no USB port. I'll do it later.

The Glenn Highway east of Anchorage is a real treat. It's about 200+ km long, half of which is great turns, road surfaces and as always, scenery that'll make you drop to your knees. I saw the edge of the Matanuska (sp.?) Glacier too, pretty cool stuff.

I am now starting to see motorcycles on the road, and I don't mean the local yocals. They're all headed north while I toodling back down south. Kind of a funny feeling.

Another observation. I have not seen much wildlife at all on this trip, which is not what I expected.

I'm heading to Whitehorse tomorrow. Stay tuned.

TheDudette ZX9

06-01-2007, 10:50 PM

The Glenn Highway east of Anchorage is a real treat. It's about 200+ km long, half of which is great turns, road surfaces and as always, scenery that'll make you drop to your knees. I saw the edge of the Matanuska (sp.?) Glacier too, pretty cool stuff.

Isn't it one of the nicest road to travel??? I'm surprised that you didn't see mooses. They were all over the place when I was there. Have a safe trip back to Whitehorse.

sushigrl

06-02-2007, 09:28 AM

I felt like that most of the time travelling north of Coldfoot to Deadhorse in Alaska, and it's not a warm fuzzy feeling at all. It's the only time in fact that I have ever ridden and felt scared to death. I'd do it again, but not alone.

not to quote tony's exact words, i too can't believe you're doing this trip on our own. on the other hand, you'll have something to brag about. good for ya! thx for keeping us updated :)

incognegro

06-02-2007, 09:57 AM

all the power to you Steve...i look forward to hearing some good stories when you get back...cool runnings!

greenboy

06-02-2007, 03:59 PM

The day started out looking kind of dreary, but in typical fashion so far that changed several times during the day.

These shots are of the Matanuska River, between Anchorage and Palmer. Made me want to go ride down in the shallow parts of the flow but there was no way of getting down there except maybe flinging the bike off the rail, not an option.

The second grid bridge thing is I think a rail bridge.

PS. I'm in Whitehorse now, again. Short ride today, 460 km. I went to the Westmark Inn Hotel, and they wanted to charge me $30 extra because I am not a resident of Alaska or the Yukon. Then I overheard the couple next to me, from Juneau Alaska being quoted $30 less. They were two guests, and they were getting a king room as opposed to the standard room I was getting. I told the check-in girl politely I didn't feel it was fair I was being penalized for being a B.C. resident, and asked her to cancel my room. So off to the Stratford Motel I went instead, which is where I stayed last time, and which costs $70 less (although probably not as nice as the Westmark - I just don't like feeling like I'm being taken, if you know wot I mean).

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:09 PM

After, or at about, Palmer I took an interesting highway exit sign that said Old Glenn Highway. It eventually hooked up to the (new?) Glenn Highway at the Tesoro gas station at the intersection below, about 80 km in. I nearly blew straight through the intersection but decided to get a drink instead. The people there told me to turn right, which I did not know at all. I could have ended up using Thumper 8's busted up compass after all.

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:17 PM

Unbelievable roads and scenery here. I stopped at a high peak for all of these shots. A couple in a car took the last pic of me.

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:26 PM

The Matanuska Glacier, something else to see. There were a few "access roads" to the glacier but I skipped them and kept moving. I don't know how close you can actually get to the glacier.

I'd pay any of you $1 to lick the edge of the glacier to see if your tongue would stick - any takers?? Shouldn't take too long to melt, you'll be home in time for dinner.

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:29 PM

Here's a few views after the glacier.

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:33 PM

After a great week or so in Alaska, it was actually a nice feeling getting back over the border even though I'm still pretty far from home.

FYI gas in Alaska averages from $2.99 to $3.50 US/gallon, which is what, 80 to 90 cents/litre? Once over the border, minimum $1.20/litre anywhere. So if you really want to save money on gas, take a short trip up here. :laughing

Thumper 8

06-02-2007, 04:43 PM

Welcome home - kinda!

Just a thought... if you are heading to Mexico through the Canyon etc, lemme know and I will see if we can get a welcoming party to greet you in Cache Creek or ??? and escort you to the border :)

BTW, nice to see the bike on its centre stand again!

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:52 PM

This is where I ended up yesterday for the night. Here are some shots of the local fire station, the Catholic church, a business and an abandoned building.

Not a bad place, the people who run the town (ie. gas station, RV park, motel, town laundry) are all the same folk and were pretty cool.

Can't say the same for the guests where I stayed though. The guy in the room next door to me snored so f*cking loud all night he may as well have slept in my room. I dunno know how his family put up with it, he was there with wife and kids.

And then there was the couple in the suite directly above me who awoke at about 3:00 a.m. for some wham-bam-thank-you-ma'am. The woman was a moaner, you could tell she was holding back with faint whimpers but once in a while, just as I was drifting back to sleep, she'd let a scream rip. I wish she would have just let it out, all at once and got over with it. Her partner was no better, just grunted like a hungry bear or some Neanthradal trying to decipher calculus. I was going to go upstairs and ask them not to hold back, the sooner they orgasmed (him anyway), the sooner the rest of the motel guests could go to sleep. They were just prolonging it by being coy and trying to be quiet. They didn't laugh or anything - it was all business, baby. I felt kind of sorry for Snoring Man, I wonder what he told his kids what was going on. Naaah, I don't feel so sorry for Snoring Man ... :laughing Naturally he slept through it all, and kept on snoring.

I think they should re-name the motel there the Thin Wall Inn.

greenboy

06-02-2007, 04:58 PM

Here's White River, which I forgot to photograph when I came by here 1.5 weeks (?) ago. I'm now travelling east.

The gas station is the same Fast Gas restaurant (how apt), where I stopped when travelling west. The lake surface at that juncture was frozen the last time I took a pic of it, now it's free-moving water. Go to page 7 of this thread (Reply #97, last photo) to see the difference.

This is all in the Yukon.

scooter

06-02-2007, 08:31 PM

Welcome home Steve.

Keep on chugging along.

SkipTkt

06-02-2007, 08:59 PM

F*n brilliant, Steve! You put us all to shame. Well, most of us. :angel

:coffee
Ride Safe

RiceRocket

06-03-2007, 01:39 AM

...And then there was the couple in the suite directly above me who awoke at about 3:00 a.m. for some wham-bam-thank-you-ma'am. The woman was a moaner, you could tell she was holding back with faint whimpers but once in a while, just as I was drifting back to sleep, she'd let a scream rip. I wish she would have just let it out, all at once and got over with it. Her partner was no better, just grunted like a hungry bear or some Neanthradal trying to decipher calculus. I was going to go upstairs and ask them not to hold back, the sooner they orgasmed (him anyway), the sooner the rest of the motel guests could go to sleep. They were just prolonging it by being coy and trying to be quiet. They didn't laugh or anything - it was all business, baby. I felt kind of sorry for Snoring Man, I wonder what he told his kids what was going on. Naaah, I don't feel so sorry for Snoring Man ... :laughing Naturally he slept through it all, and kept on snoring.

I think they should re-name the motel there the Thin Wall Inn.

Oh man, that cracks me up. :roflmao :roflmao :roflmao :noevil

masonjarz

06-03-2007, 05:48 AM

You should not have been surprised to hear some fucking...you were in Beaver Creek!

Mitch awsome

06-03-2007, 09:32 AM

http://www.bcsportbikes.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=56928&stc=1&d=1180828770

That's funny I did some design work on that bridge, and one of the guys from my old office had to go up to Beaver Creek to supervise the retrofit of that bridge.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 12:39 PM

I slept in today so I am staying another day here. Got up late, went to church, changed oil, washed bike and had a late breakfast. I love having too much time on my hands, I wish everyday was like this.

Gotta love Cambodian Tire too. Everyone else is closed, including their service shop. The parts desk guy however agreed I could do my oil change in the parking lot, and give him back my 2 litres of used oil to be dumped in their recycling drum when the service shop opens again tomorrow. No oil filter, total cost = $13.50 including tinfoil baking tray and paper towels, and 45 minutes of my time.

I drained the old oil back into the new oil bottles, good for measuring that I put as much in as I took out. I'm getting good at this I think.

Tengu

06-03-2007, 12:45 PM

I f*cked up my brand new Arai XD helmet, missing pin bolt thing, cracked .

I'm considering this helmet have some opinions to share?
Especially at speeds of 115ish.

Great story & photos as always.
Keep it up! :cheers

greenboy

06-03-2007, 12:47 PM

I still have all these images replaying over and over in my head of the Dalton Highway (aka the Haul Road) between Deadhorse and Fairbanks. Without a doubt that made the greatest impression on me on this trip.

I'm adding a few more pics from that leg of the journey last week, hopefully I didn't already post them up.

The last one is one of my favourite (???) places, Atigun Pass.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 01:00 PM

I'm considering this helmet have some opinions to share?
Especially at speeds of 115ish.

Great story & photos as always.
Keep it up! :cheers

Hey Crass:

The Arai XD is a great helmet. It's the only MX helmet I know of that has a faceshield. I was going to cheap out and wear my regular open face MX helmet and goggles, and I am glad I didn't go that route or I'd have frozen my nose and cheeks a long time ago.

I picked up the XD about 1 or 2 days before I left for the trip and it's basically trashed now, but it did it's job well when I landed on my head/face at the start of the Haul Road. It took a mean blow to the chin area and held up well. My face shield is scratched like a 2 year old helmet even though it's not even 3 weeks old yet. I've got cracked, missing, scratched and torn (liner) parts, but it's done everything it was meant to do. I will definitely buy another one.

On this particular trip at speed, I don't really like cruising on the KLR at over 110 km/h because of: weight; economy; scenery - at the best of times. At 110 km/h the XD is fine but when the winds blow hard, if I tilt my head up the visor catches but not so badly that my head gets ripped off. I'm sure the XD will cruise 140 km/h comfortably as long as you don't tilt your head back and gaze at the constellations.

___________

I'm a huge fan of the Kluane Lake area in the Yukon, so you all get subjected to more photos from that area, which I passed through yesterday from Beaver Creek to Whitehorse. Enjoy.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 01:04 PM

More Kluane Lake, most beautiful lake in the Yukon ... until I see the next one. :)

greenboy

06-03-2007, 01:12 PM

Check out the purply flower things. They grow all over the side of the highway, but only right up against the edge, as if someone planted them there on purpose.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 01:16 PM

I found this little side excursion just east of the Destruction Bay Fast Gas restaurant, to get closer to the edge of Kluane Lake. I rode down a short distance onto the "beach" itself. Very cool feeling, riding through shallow little river inlet things.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 01:21 PM

You should not have been surprised to hear some fucking...you were in Beaver Creek!

:laughing :laughing I didn't quite make that connection, but yeah you're probably right.

Tengu

06-03-2007, 01:30 PM

the visor catches but not so badly that my head gets ripped off. I'm sure the XD will cruise 140 km/h comfortably as long as you don't tilt your head back and gaze at the constellations.
.

Thanks for the review Steve as I havent heard of any first hand experience with them. Wind at speed was my only concern on the hwy, and it sounds like it'll be fine.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 07:07 PM

Crass, BTW I have worn Shoei almost forever, and still do for a road helmet. The Arai XD fits perfect. They're both mediums.

That was my biggest concern going from Shoei to Arai, whether the Arai would be comfortable or Chinese torture, after 2 - 3 hours on the road (showroom fit tells you nothing). It hasn't been a problem at all.

____________

Here are some more pics of Whitehorse I took today, including around Robert Service Way and 2nd Avenue. I took a 4 hour nap in the middle of the day, can't remember the last time I did that. I must be wiped out or something.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 07:19 PM

From last week again, Atigun Pass on the Dalton Highway (Haul Road) south of Deadfoot, Alaska.

My personal vote for Best Place in the World to Lose Yourself and Feel Like You've Stepped into a Scene from Planet of the Apes.

silverD

06-03-2007, 07:31 PM

Fantastic journey and story Steve!!

mooove_over

06-03-2007, 07:44 PM

Fantastic journey and story Steve!!

incredible really....im sooo jealous

awesome pics. Thanks for sharing

mooove_over

06-03-2007, 07:50 PM

greenboy

06-03-2007, 07:52 PM

Hey Donny, thanks!

I was thinking the other day a V-Strom would have made this trip well, under the conditions I have ridden in anyway which have been favourable about 70% of the time.

It would be a bitch to pick that thing up on your own though, but then again most other adventure riders up here I have seen (not since I headed south from Deadhorse, heh heh) have been on BMW GS things which are also tanks. More cruisers showing up on the road now the further south I get but I don't know where they're headed. I saw one nutbar on a flame job orange CBR600RR with luggage, he was heading west to Fairbanks anyway.

At the Destruction Bay Fast Gas restaurant I chatted with 3 people on two BMW 1150GS's, damn nice bikes with heated everything including grips, rider and passenger seats, and nipple rings. They were shocked my KLR only puts out 38 bhp. They told me the BMWs are closer to 90 bhp, but then again one of the two bikes, with passenger and full gear, was tipping the scales at about 1,000 lb. the rider told me.

greenboy

06-03-2007, 08:05 PM

Hey, i might have missed something over the many pages of text here, but what kind of range are you getting with that bike....any issues with trying to find fuel? My bros did the alaska trip years ago with a '62 vw micro bus. had to fill with a gas can he had brought along inbetween gas stations at one point.

The KLR650 under normal conditions at home gets just over 400 km / 240 miles to the tank. That's about 60 mpg. The worst tank I had, to dry, was about 390 km but most times I did not let it go that far to reduce the risk of sputtering out in the middle of nowhere. I generally filled up at every 100 - 200 km as and when gas stations showed up on the highway. Many were closed this time of the season too.

I only ran out once, that was 390 km from Deadhorse, just shy of Coldfoot. It was the only one time I resorted to the 2 gallon jerry can I purchased in Fairbanks, which you can see in many of my pics.

The further north you go, the fewer gas stops there are. Fairbanks to Deadfoot is the worst, it's basically 800 km with Coldfoot at almost exactly the 1/2 way point, and nothing else in between. Everything else has been OK so far.

I can't bring myself to throw away my jerry can even though I doubt I need it anymore. It still has extra oil in a Pepsi bottle duct-taped to it, complete with dents and scatches from my first crash on the Haul Road one day after I purchased it brand new. If I still have it when I get back home, it's getting mounted and hung in the garage as a keepsake.

dog44

06-05-2007, 04:14 PM

Hey, what's goin' on? I need my fix!

Where are ya, buddy? Please tell us you're ok.

sushigrl

06-05-2007, 04:21 PM

Hey, what's goin' on? I need my fix!

Where are ya, buddy? Please tell us you're ok.

ya has he forgotten about us?

Mutate Now!

06-05-2007, 05:35 PM

He probably went off to bag a moose with a slingshot, so he can add to the list of things he has accomplished that no one with a sane mind would even attempt to do. :roflmao

greenboy

06-05-2007, 08:11 PM

Hey, what's goin' on? I need my fix!

Where are ya, buddy? Please tell us you're ok.

I'm gone for a day and you all get hot and bothered? Yesterday I was in Watson Lake in the Yukon, and the library was closed so I couldn't get to a computer.

I didn't feel like taking too many pictures on the ride yesterday, but I'll put up what I have in a moment.

I learned two things in Watson Lake (I don't vouch for the accuracy of any of this, so shoot me me if I'm wrong):

1. The sign post set up (see page 5 of this thread, Reply #74) started in about 1942 when some local fellow got home sick and so put up a sign from his local hometown. It grew from there and today there are an estimated 50,000 or so signs from every part of the world. So if you are ever going to Watson Lake, make sure you bring a local street sign to post up.

2. A trick the locals in pubs play on travellers is to chat them up, buddy-buddy style, and say Hey Let's Go for a Drink, I'll Buy You One. Then they take the traveller to the bar, order rounds and rounds, and when the bill comes they pretend it isn't there, and the traveller ends up picking up the tab. No, I didn't get taken in this fashion. I noticed though that both times I arrived, the local drunks were super-friendly, and said those words to me almost verbatim. Both times happened right at the motel front desk, and both times I did not take them up on the offer. The second time, the motel receptionist let me in on the ploy. Anyway, I didn't feel like drinking with them.

greenboy

06-05-2007, 08:30 PM

As I mentioned, I was not much in a picture taking mood yesterday. The ride was a relatively uneventful one, lots of long straights and sweepers, and pretty much good weather all day.

The first three pics are of the Canol Road, with an explanation. There was a200+ km route to somewhere (?) on it, but I wasn't feeling that brave so I stuck to the asphalt.

jeckyll

06-05-2007, 08:34 PM

Steve: How's the Gripster working out sos far?

:)

Bjorn

greenboy

06-05-2007, 08:46 PM

Today I rode the Cassiar Highway from north (Junction 37) to south (Kitwanga). The plan, if you can call it that, was to go to Prince Rupert but at the Kitwanga Junction the road westbound was blocked. The guy at the roadblock told me the slide near Terrace was no longer the problem (even though they found a vehicle and 2 bodies in the slide), but now there was major flooding happening.

So east I went and ended up in Smithers instead. I have a whole two bedroom suite to myself at the Capri Motel, for only $67 and taxes. Nice and clean, and huge-normous. What a deal.

The top of the Cassiar Highway is Junction 37, pics below.

_____

Hey, look what I found in Watson Lake! The local grocery store had 4 of these floss holders left. My last one broke about 1.0 month ago and I have been lamenting the absence of any replacements in the Lower Mainland. I bought up all the store had left. This find was as satisfying as when I discovered about 1.5 years ago you can still buy Schick Injector razor blades in Everett, Washington, another item which local Lower Mainland stores have stopped carrying for years now. What is it with stores phasing out the best items that actually work and replacing them all with flashy non-functional over-priced crap??

This totally made my trip to Watson Lake. :)

I love having too much time on my hands. Can't wait for retirement.

greenboy

06-05-2007, 08:53 PM

The first half of the Cassiar Highway ranged from nice turns, beautiful skies and half-decent (for dualsport) roads, to mud and washouts and long construction lines. In other words, something for everyone.

The muddy parts are the first difficult surfaces I've ridden since the Dalton Highway, and many places similar except without the freezing temps.

greenboy

06-05-2007, 09:02 PM

Here are some pics of the Cassiar Highway before I put my camera away because it was getting too wet. So much for my nice clean KLR, and blue skies.

It got a lot worse, but by then I was more concerned with staying upright than taking pictures. The worst was actually following the pilot vehicles at the several construction stop zones. The pilots drive so slow in the mud it was harder to stay upright.

_____

Oh, when the weather was dry I must have seen about a dozen black bears today, but every time they took off into the bush. Usually they would look up, eyeball me as I approached them, and then scurry off. After a while I started coasting towards them in neutral, and I could get closer, but never close enough to get a good shot at them.

greenboy

06-05-2007, 09:06 PM

After the Bell II Lodge, the roads got dry again and the rain disappeared.

Machinist

06-05-2007, 09:15 PM

greenboy

06-05-2007, 09:17 PM

I took these pics of the Skeena River at the junction in Kitwanga where you either go west for Prince Rupert, or east for Prince George.

This was one serious water flow. I am thinking the flooding in the area was caused by the river being more swollen than normal - ? In any event, this was not some pond where you would want to drop your keys in, or fall in the water for that matter. Whatever went into that water was not coming out, that's for certain.

greenboy

06-05-2007, 09:20 PM

After a while I started coasting towards them in neutral, and I could get closer, but never close enough to get a good shot at them.

Steve if I was with you I Betcha I could hae got a Shot at one of them :blindside

Funny you should say that Chris. I was thinking if you were on this trip you could shoot one so it would at least stay still long enough for me to take a picture of it. :evilgrin

greenboy

06-05-2007, 09:30 PM

Steve: How's the Gripster working out sos far?

:)

Bjorn

They suck in the mud, but then again so does my riding. :laughing

You mentioned before you're looking for a travelling tire? They work well for me on dry or wet pavement, and on hardpack dirt or not-too-deep gravel. Better than the stock Dunlops anyway, although I don't have a lot of tire or even dirt experience to speak of. I think however you'd hate them on one of your local mountain romps.

The only other tire I have tried is the Kenda 761 and I think I'll go back to it because it feels about the same as the Avon Skipster, and I think it costs less too.

____________

Here's a few more random pics from today on the Cassiar Highway.

greenboy

06-06-2007, 07:19 PM

Hey People:

I rode from Smithers to Williams Lake today, about 625 km. It rained all the way almost to Prince George where the skies opened up nearly perfectly blue. Then raining again by the time I reached Williams Lake.

I'm returning home to Surrey tomorrow, as I've done everything I wanted to do on this trip and am getting tired. I want to relax in my own home, I want to ride my GSXR600 and the Trumpet, I want to see people again, and I want to eat a decent Chinese meal.

I planned 1.0 month for this trip, but am satisfied with it after just under 3 weeks. The extra time was for contingencies like weather, crashes, breakdowns, getting eaten by bears and that kind of stuff. The rain today didn't help, and I understand there's more coming in the areas I 've been in B.C. in the last few days, and in the Lower Mainland. I've been blessed with mostly good weather except for the Arctic Circle (totally expected), and a few rain days/periods here and there. And one snowfall out of Fort St. John. Overall it's been a great ride, I'd recommend it to anyone.

If I did this again I would do it in the exact same time of the year. Why? Just to get a slight taste of the tail end of the cold snap in northern Alaska (but not too much). I wouldn't ride far, far up north again alone though, not in those temps - admittedly that was not my brightest idea.

All well worth it though. I have never felt so put out of my own safe environment and comfort zone as I did in Alaska. Now I've done it, and am glad I did. I wouldn't trade this trip for anything.

No pics for today, it was all pretty familiar stuff. And it rained so damn much too.

So one last leg tomorrow and I'm done. Thanks all for coming along for the ride.

Steve