BC Sport Bikes Forum banner

Sticky topics feedback.... Whadaya think?

900 views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  TeeTee 
#1 ·
Like it says. Let me know what you think of the review topics and the "data gathering".

I know it's winter so the stickys are moving slow but I'd like to spruce the ol' homestead up if it needs it.

So how'm I doing?

Let me know if you want anything in the Articles area too.

I'm hoping to post up a lot of suspension links and articles in there soon. Watch for it.
 
#2 ·
Gets a big ol' thumbs-up from me.

I just did a plug change on my R6 and took a buttload of pictures - was thinking of putting together yet another little tutorial "here's how you change your plugs, be not afraid child" type of thing, if it's of any interest.

-Matt
 
#3 ·
jonesboy said:
Gets a big ol' thumbs-up from me.

I just did a plug change on my R6 and took a buttload of pictures - was thinking of putting together yet another little tutorial "here's how you change your plugs, be not afraid child" type of thing, if it's of any interest.

-Matt
Yes, by all means. This is just the type of thing I'm looking for.

Post up the pics to your personal gallery and then link them in the post using the IMG button as they fit into the script.

The troops will probably enjoy listening to someone besides me and Actionmechanic for a change... :D
 
#5 ·
Great idea! It'll help people like me who know next to nothing about mods but are not afraid to sling a wrench or two.
 
#7 ·
I had been thinking more about common servicing issues but you guys are one jump ahead of me AGAIN.....:thumbup

Common accessory install procedures is TRES KEWL. Dampers, oilers, lights, slipons, etc. These all have super mass appeal. Pics taken during the procedure would be great too....

I think jonesboy and his camera is the ticket.




All right you guys. From now on NO ONE is allowed to do basic mods or repairs to their rides unless there's an official BCSB staff photographer on site..... :D :laughing
 
#9 ·
Put the pics in your album page for now and just write a reply on this thread or start a new thread. I'll clip it away to the articles area.

Don't worry about the pics taking up room in your album. I'll speak to the management about getting an Articles album and we can move them over to there and edit the thread to reflect the pics location.

To clarify.... put the pics in your album. Then to link to them right click on the pic and cutn'paste the link URL into your post using the button or commands.

This applies to anyone else that wants to write something about their flushmounts, neon install (shudder), shock replacement or any other procedure that fits here.

Thanks in advace for being the first of (I hope) many. Awright, who's next?
 
#10 ·
I mis-read and responded in the wrong thread because I'm so cool... :thumbup (edit: also so cool I couldn't spell "thumbup" properly)

...so here's the thingy.

<A HREF="http://www.jonesboy.com/tutorials/plug_change/">Changing plugs on a modern sportbike</A>

Enjoy it. Or something.

-Matt
 
#11 ·
Scotts Damper Install

I am basicly writting this out following Scotts instructions, and notes on what i did. Scotts provides very few images to go with their instructions, but the instructions themselves are clear.

Asside from the larger components that you recieve with the damper, you get a bag of small parts. In this bag there are:
  • 8 small allen type screws
  • 2 rubber pads
  • 1 allen key
  • 2 6x20 allen bolts
  • 1 tower pin
  • 1 tube of Blue Loc-Tite



Do not lose any of these.

Any set screws, bolts, or nuts you assemble make sure to Loc-Tite, they will come lose.

Any torque specs listed are assumed to be for the Yamaha r1, consult your manual for specifics to your bike.


Tools needed:
  • 36mm Socket
  • Breakerbar or rachet with bar extension
  • Torque wrench capable of 4-90ftlbs
  • Supplied Allen key
  • Grease of some kind, white lithium is fine.
  • Supplied Loc-Tite
  • a fine flat file or sandpaper block may be needed
  • a set of allen sockets is a nice addition.

Lordco sells the Torque wrenches and 36mm socket i used, for about 25-40 a piece. If you dont do a lot of wrenching, try to borrow someones.

The instructions say nothing about using race stands for all of this, but i used a rear stand, just made sense to me.

Step one: Righty tighty, lefty loosy. You want to remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer that holds the tripple clamp tight. Turn your bars full left to the bump stop, stand on the left side and remove the nut. You stand here so that the bike wont fall over, and you dont need an assistant. The nut and washer you just removed you wont be using again unless you get rid of your damper. Toss them or store them.



Install the new aluminum nut with the hex drive facing up. To do this, stand on the right side of the bike, with the bars turned full right.


Scotts says to torque this to 85ftlbs or more. The manual for the bike indicates a 83ft/lb torque. So I just squeezed the extra few out and torqued to 85ft/lbs. You rembered to Loc-Tite right?

Step two: Install the new 'tripple clamp damper mount' over the main tripple clamp nut that you just installed. It slips over top, there is a machined register lip on the bottom of it, this faces backwards, and keeps the damper straight.



This is suposed to be a perfectly flust sit on your tripple clamp. But due to wear and casting variances, it may not be flush. Scotts indicates that some 'slight' filing of either the TC mount, or the tripple clamp itself may be required. The gap was so slim on my bike it wasn't required.

Step three: Use the supplied allen key, Loc-Tite and tighten the 8 set screws into the TC mount. Tighten them up on opposite sides so that the mount is always centered. After you have them all snuged up, you can go around and do your final tightening.

note: after your first ride, go back and try to tighten these 8 screws up again, they will seat into a final position.

Step four:Remove the stock fuel tank retaining bolt 6x15, and the small "U" clip under the bolt, save or discard these pieces.


Step five:The lower and upper half of the frame mount need to be disassembled (they come loosly fitted from the factory) You now will be installing the 'single hole' aluminum lower half. Make sure which side you have facing foreward. And make sure to Loc-Tite. Stock spec on this bolt is 5.1ft/lbs


Step six: Next install the '2 hole' frame mount on top of the piece you just installed. The hole for the tower pin is to be located on the front side of things.


Now Scotts does not give a spec for the two bolts here. I used the same torque spec as on the tank bolt, 5.1ft/lbs per bolt. Loc-Tite these aswell.

Step seven: this step may be optional. The 2 piece frame mount you just installed will likly not actually touch the frame on the outer ends. This is ok as long as the gap isnt excessive. The 2 rubber pads provided are for the bottom of these feet. The pads may be filed if needed.


This is what my gap looked like, it was slim enough that i wasnt required to shim it. If you do have to use the rubber pads, make sure thay they are just barly touching the frame. Do not press them down so they preload and flex the frame mount. The clearance should not exceed .030" (a dime is .050") The back edges of mine are almost touching, yours may too.

Step eight: Lightly grease the bottom half of the tower pin and drop it into the tower pin hole. The fit is pretty good so a lot of excess greese may squeeze out, just wipe it off and clean it up. The pin is designed to just 'float' in this hole.


Step nine: Straighten your bars out (this is where its nice to have the rear on a stand, holding the bike upright) Install the Main body of the Scotts Damper, align the link arm slot with the flats on the tower pin. Use the 2 6x20 Allens supplied in the bag. Use Loc-Tite. again Scotts didnt provide a torque spec, since all the bolts of similar size/pitch are grabbing into aluminum, and the stock spec was 5.1ft/lbs, this again is the torque i used. I used a LOT of Loc-Tite on these 2 bolts by the way.


Step ten:Clean up, and ride. The initial setting for the adjustable setting is 8 clicks out from full. I used 9 clicks out form full until i got used to it. Enjoy.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top