rejetting
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Thread: rejetting

  1. #1
    Registered User Array hsam's Avatar
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    rejetting

    I've installed a Yosh race-only slip-on on my R6 and I'm thinking about having it rejetted (studders a bit at low rpms).

    Any suggestions on where (i.e. dealer/shop) is a good place to get a bike rejetted in the Vancouver area? I've heard that unless it's done properly, the bike could even run worse after rejetting. Isn't a dyno required to rejet? I can't imagine too many bike shops around here have a dyno.

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  3. #2
    Resident Banana Array atomlowe's Avatar
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    Re: rejetting

    adamantium had his done @ Burnaby Kawi last month with positive results. He also has an R6 with a slipon high mount. Call Ron for pricing. You can find their number in the links area at the top.

    atom

    Originally posted by hsam
    I've installed a Yosh race-only slip-on on my R6 and I'm thinking about having it rejetted (studders a bit at low rpms).

    Any suggestions on where (i.e. dealer/shop) is a good place to get a bike rejetted in the Vancouver area? I've heard that unless it's done properly, the bike could even run worse after rejetting. Isn't a dyno required to rejet? I can't imagine too many bike shops around here have a dyno.

  4. #3
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
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    If you're happy with the way it responds except at the low rpm and low throttle side of things then all you need is to have the pilot screws opened up a little.

    Main jets don't do much for the problem you're describing here.

    If the WOT and high rpm side of things feels a little soft then that's a different matter. It's main jets in that case.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  5. #4
    Registered User Array hsam's Avatar
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    "have the pilot screws opened up a little"

    Do you mean increasing the idle?

  6. #5
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
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    No. Down underneath the tank the carbs all have a little spot where you can adjust the gas mixure ratio for idle and light throttle applications. These are what you need to adjust. And I'm not talking about the float bowl drains either.....

    Got a manual?
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  7. #6
    glowing ghostie! Array gordopolis's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BMatthews
    And I'm not talking about the float bowl drains either.....
    ROTFL!


  8. #7
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
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    Originally posted by gordopolis


    ROTFL!

    Hey, it's an honest mistake if you don't know what you're looking at.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  9. #8
    Registered User Array Human's Avatar
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    Bruce I have noticed a slight flat spot at 5.5k-6k rpm and again at 8-9k rpm with my Yosh ti. oval can....but for this I will need rejetting right ?
    2001 ZX6R
    WMRC #32 Amateur

  10. #9
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Human
    Bruce I have noticed a slight flat spot at 5.5k-6k rpm and again at 8-9k rpm with my Yosh ti. oval can....but for this I will need rejetting right ?
    If it happens with full throttle then I'd say first you need a bigger main for the 8-9K range then if the 5.5-6 hasn't perked up by that time then perhaps a 0.5 mm shim under the needles. But that's just a guess. The real answer would come from Mr Dyno and a sniffer up yer tail pipe....... uh, that's the bike's tailpipe, not your's
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  11. #10
    glowing ghostie! Array gordopolis's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BMatthews


    Hey, it's an honest mistake if you don't know what you're looking at.
    Hee hee, sorry, didn't mean to offend. The way you said it made me chuckle a bit.

  12. #11
    redracer
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    Everything that I've read says that rejetting is not required for just a slip on. Since, at best, you would be looking at an increase of about 3 HP with just a slip-on, dyno runs are probably just a waste of money. If I were you, I would save the money on the rejetting and dyno runs and put it towards some other mod.

    If they didn't play with your carbs during the first service, I would definitely have someone adjust the fuel mixtures and possibly shim the needles. Otherwise, you can probably put it off until your next service.

    I just put a full race Yoshimura duplex high mount system on my 01 6r and what you describe is sounds very similar to what I experienced, although less extreme. I decided to take mine into Pacific Yamaha to have them rejet the and the carbs. Unlike the other shops around here ( including BK ), they actually examine the system first using an exhaust gas analyser before determining what jetting changes are necessary. My bike required bigger mains, shimming the needles, and a few other adjustments.

    I would definitely drop by Pacific Yamaha and talk to Yanni ( the service manager ) to go over any concerns you might have. He spent quite a bit of time answering questions before, during, and afterwards.

  13. #12
    Nite Rider Array Shimmer's Avatar
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    I have a new question to add to this thread...

    How do you know you're supposed to rejet a bike?
    SURGEON GENERAL'S WARNING : Quitting 2-Stroking Now Greatly Reduces Serious Risks to Other People's Health.

  14. #13
    Passer of Harps Array Scheme's Avatar
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    There is always room for rejetting on a bike, even stock bikes could probably benefit (albeit very little) from some carb work. It all depends on whether the difference is worth the money for you.

  15. #14
    oscarthegrouch
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    Thumbs up

    Originally posted by redracer
    Everything that I've read says that rejetting is not required for just a slip on. Since, at best, you would be looking at an increase of about 3 HP with just a slip-on, dyno runs are probably just a waste of money. If I were you, I would save the money on the rejetting and dyno runs and put it towards some other mod.

    If they didn't play with your carbs during the first service, I would definitely have someone adjust the fuel mixtures and possibly shim the needles. Otherwise, you can probably put it off until your next service.

    I just put a full race Yoshimura duplex high mount system on my 01 6r and what you describe is sounds very similar to what I experienced, although less extreme. I decided to take mine into Pacific Yamaha to have them rejet the and the carbs. Unlike the other shops around here ( including BK ), they actually examine the system first using an exhaust gas analyser before determining what jetting changes are necessary. My bike required bigger mains, shimming the needles, and a few other adjustments.

    I would definitely drop by Pacific Yamaha and talk to Yanni ( the service manager ) to go over any concerns you might have. He spent quite a bit of time answering questions before, during, and afterwards.

    Larry at PacYam is probably one of the few folks that can do a good job on a carb'd bike without a dyno. You can thank BMW for the sniffer though, I think that's why they got it!

    Normally dyno runs are a big help in smoothing out the dips in the torque curve. TeeTee is right on the money when he points you towards the pilot circuit. Stock bikes are insanely lean from the factory, and while a normal slipon doesn't change the flow all that much, the full race Yosh noisemaker could do. A _reasonable_ rule of thumb, is up one size on the pilot jets, if you are getting any bog or stutter when you hit the gas. That is not a guarantee, but pretty common in the world of CV carbs.

    I'm all for dynoTUNING as opposed to dynoRUNS. With one, you get to fill in the blanks on your bike, with the other you get a simple snapshot. You need at least a before and after set of runs if you are doing your own work, otherwise, you don't know if you've fixed it or made it worse. Blah blah blah.....




  16. #15
    Spider-Man
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    I've been playing with jetting on my bike for some time . Can someone tell me if it is harmful to have the bike running a little on the lean side or the rich side. I've been getting conflicting info.

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