TRE or Sprockets
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Thread: TRE or Sprockets

  1. #1
    Urban Squid Array Holyrain's Avatar
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    TRE or Sprockets

    I have an 03 GSXR1000 which under 4000RMB is not very smooth. Throttle off to on can be really jerky and abrupt despite solid wrist command. I was thinking of dropping a tooth up front or raising a couple teeth in the back to smooth it out when I came across the throttle retard issue.

    So my question is which would be more suitable for me? I'm not looking for more power; just smoother low RPM throttle feel for the really tight 1/2 gear twisties. Thanks.

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  3. #2
    From N00bie to Wannabe Array FASTn50's Avatar
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    Try searching this site for a fuelling fix:
    http://www.gixxer.com/

    Or PM Ted at EMS
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    From N00bie to Wannabe Array FASTn50's Avatar
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    http://www.bcsportbikes.com/forum/sh...8&postcount=24

    You not making the connection here?

    Or do you get some kind of kick out of wasting other peoples time trying to help you out a "problem"?

    And just in case I woke up grumpy and you're not a tool: instead of spending money on sprockets, get your fuel system properly serviced/rebuilt/replaced.
    Last edited by FASTn50; 06-27-2010 at 09:49 AM.
    All my Mistresses have two round, sticky black feet and are Made in Japan or Germany!
    If I die on Phillip Island, so what! I'm already in Heaven! WOOHOOO!!!

  5. #4
    Registered User Array GerMan's Avatar
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    Shorter gearing would only exacerbate jerky on/off throttle behaviour. Longer gearing (i.e. more teeth in the front or less in the rear) would help you by masking the problem.
    However, the proper solution seems to fix the fueling issue.
    Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. Albert Einstein

  6. #5
    awful human Array bottomfeeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holyrain View Post
    I have an 03 GSXR1000 which under 4000RMB is not very smooth. Throttle off to on can be really jerky and abrupt despite solid wrist command. I was thinking of dropping a tooth up front or raising a couple teeth in the back to smooth it out when I came across the throttle retard issue.

    So my question is which would be more suitable for me? I'm not looking for more power; just smoother low RPM throttle feel for the really tight 1/2 gear twisties. Thanks.
    It is most likely not a fuelling problem.

    I have first hand experience with this one. The stock setup that retards the timing in the first four gears is a completely useless piece of shit that adversely affects the drivability of the bike, and in some situations could upset the chassis enough to be dangerous.

    I have a $28 smart TRE installed from Dano's performance I bought off E-bay. With this handy device, on / off throttle transitions are as smooth as butter. The TRE will also eliminate the excessive engine braking that occurs with the factory setup. Part throttle acceleration is very, very slightly better but hardly noticeable.

    http://www.danosperformance.com/suzuki_smart_TRE.htm

    This link is to their site, but you can get it cheaper on e-bay from Dano's e-bay store.

    If you are dubious a demonstration can be arranged if you are local.



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    Last edited by bottomfeeder; 06-27-2010 at 01:30 PM.
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  7. #6
    Urban Squid Array Holyrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FASTn50 View Post
    http://www.bcsportbikes.com/forum/sh...8&postcount=24

    You not making the connection here?

    Or do you get some kind of kick out of wasting other peoples time trying to help you out a "problem"?

    And just in case I woke up grumpy and you're not a tool: instead of spending money on sprockets, get your fuel system properly serviced/rebuilt/replaced.
    Easy tiger; I had my fuel injection system taken apart a long time ago and flushed, flow tested etc. That thread is from last year I believe.

  8. #7
    Urban Squid Array Holyrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvsfzr1000 View Post
    It is most likely not a fuelling problem.

    I have first hand experience with this one. The stock setup that retards the timing in the first four gears is a completely useless piece of shit that adversely affects the drivability of the bike, and in some situations could upset the chassis enough to be dangerous.

    I have a $28 smart TRE installed from Dano's performance I bought off E-bay. With this handy device, on / off throttle transitions are as smooth as butter. The TRE will also eliminate the excessive engine braking that occurs with the factory setup. Part throttle acceleration is very, very slightly better but hardly noticeable.

    http://www.danosperformance.com/suzuki_smart_TRE.htm

    This link is to their site, but you can get it cheaper on e-bay from Dano's e-bay store.

    If you are dubious a demonstration can be arranged if you are local.



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    Awesome. I'm going to order one of those bad boys right away. Unfortunately or fortunately (no speeding tickets ever!) I'm expatriated away from the LM so no demonstrations possible. Thanks for the offer.

  9. #8
    awful human Array bottomfeeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holyrain View Post
    Awesome. I'm going to order one of those bad boys right away. Unfortunately or fortunately (no speeding tickets ever!) I'm expatriated away from the LM so no demonstrations possible. Thanks for the offer.
    I'm confident you'll like it plenty. Installation is about a ten minute job. Seat off, tank up, start fiddling with the connectors. The toughest part was getting the harness connectors apart, took awhile to figure them out. Post up when she's on.



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  10. #9
    Urban Squid Array Holyrain's Avatar
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    Update

    I ordered Dano's TRE and installed on the K3 today.

    First off, Dan was helpful and the part shipped to me in about a week. Very happy with them. The product in question wasn't cheap for what it is, but it's an OEM style plug and play, which I value over saving a few bucks.

    I plugged the TRE in today and took the bike out. It made a difference on the smoothness and quickness (wrist input to tire output) of acceleration, and a huge difference on de-acceleration. I have yet to take her out on the twisties, but on the street the bike feels smoother now, and this mod along with the SET removal has upped the fun factor by at least 20% on my ride.

    What blows my mind is that Suzuki actually puts all this crap which really makes the engine feel unhappy. Once remedied, this engine feels like a bird out of the cage. She wants to be wrung and opened up, and sings while doing it.

    GSXR owners, do not hesitate to do these 2 mods. I had read some people dismissing the TRE as a waste of money but have to strongly disagree. Big thanks to Dave for the detailed information.

  11. #10
    FiRReblade Array JoWii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holyrain View Post
    I have an 03 GSXR1000 which under 4000RMB is not very smooth. Throttle off to on can be really jerky and abrupt despite solid wrist command. I was thinking of dropping a tooth up front or raising a couple teeth in the back to smooth it out when I came across the throttle retard issue.

    So my question is which would be more suitable for me? I'm not looking for more power; just smoother low RPM throttle feel for the really tight 1/2 gear twisties. Thanks.
    hahahahaha under 4000RMB? not CAD? or do u mean RPM haha jkjk

    the problem is that you bought a 1000 hahahaha, they are designed to be jerky n shoot you out of low speed turns

  12. #11
    No soup for you! Array magis70's Avatar
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    wierd

    Thats odd. I bought a stock 03 gsxr-1000 2 weeks ago and i don't notice any of this. Only thing is it runs like crap when its cold. It studders and struggles to make power under 5krpm unless you wait 1min for the temp to climb a bit. Other than that its smooth as butter.

    I dont use 1st gear for anything but starting out, so maybe thats why i never noticed. Doesn't matter what bike you have 1st is always jerky because of the gearing. This is my first big bore bike though(only ridden 600's) so maybe my tastes arent as refined as yours.

  13. #12
    awful human Array bottomfeeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holyrain View Post
    I ordered Dano's TRE and installed on the K3 today.

    First off, Dan was helpful and the part shipped to me in about a week. Very happy with them. The product in question wasn't cheap for what it is, but it's an OEM style plug and play, which I value over saving a few bucks.

    I plugged the TRE in today and took the bike out. It made a difference on the smoothness and quickness (wrist input to tire output) of acceleration, and a huge difference on de-acceleration. I have yet to take her out on the twisties, but on the street the bike feels smoother now, and this mod along with the SET removal has upped the fun factor by at least 20% on my ride.

    What blows my mind is that Suzuki actually puts all this crap which really makes the engine feel unhappy. Once remedied, this engine feels like a bird out of the cage. She wants to be wrung and opened up, and sings while doing it.

    GSXR owners, do not hesitate to do these 2 mods. I had read some people dismissing the TRE as a waste of money but have to strongly disagree. Big thanks to Dave for the detailed information.
    Yeah as you can see you don't gain much power (if any) with a TRE but the real benefit is the huge gain in smoothness during on / off throttle transitions and eliminating the excessive engine braking.

    I agree that the timing retarder is an absolute waste of the Suzuki engineers' time, and I'm baffled as to why they thought it was even necessary. It adversely affects the drivability of the bike.

    I think the only real reason the SET valve is there is to cut down on noise at idle. If you open and close the valve by hand (with a leather glove so you don't burn yourself of course) while the bike is idling it does make a pretty noticeable difference in noise.

    Glad I could help. Keep the shiny side up everyone.



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  14. #13
    awful human Array bottomfeeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magis70 View Post
    Thats odd. I bought a stock 03 gsxr-1000 2 weeks ago and i don't notice any of this. Only thing is it runs like crap when its cold. It studders and struggles to make power under 5krpm unless you wait 1min for the temp to climb a bit. Other than that its smooth as butter.

    I dont use 1st gear for anything but starting out, so maybe thats why i never noticed. Doesn't matter what bike you have 1st is always jerky because of the gearing. This is my first big bore bike though(only ridden 600's) so maybe my tastes arent as refined as yours.
    Pretty common mod, so it may have already been done and the prevoius owner forgot to mention it or the owner before him (if applicable) didn't mention it either.

    Your cold running problem sounds like one of the sensors for the fuel injection system is acting up. The sensors themselves usually aren't terribly expensive, but to troubleshoot which one it is can be time consuming. Usually the system is self diagnosing and you will get an "FI" blinking on your gauge cluster with a red light.

    good luck

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  15. #14
    No soup for you! Array magis70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bottomfeeder View Post
    Pretty common mod, so it may have already been done and the prevoius owner forgot to mention it or the owner before him (if applicable) didn't mention it either.

    Your cold running problem sounds like one of the sensors for the fuel injection system is acting up. The sensors themselves usually aren't terribly expensive, but to troubleshoot which one it is can be time consuming. Usually the system is self diagnosing and you will get an "FI" blinking on your gauge cluster with a red light.

    good luck

    Its only had 1 owner besides me. Bike has 6000km on it. It sat for 2 years in a garage with the fuel tank on reserve. Fork seals were dried up and tires were nearly flat. Hopefully theres no varnish inside. Havent noticed any performance problems other than the running like crap when its cold issue.

  16. #15
    ninja machinist Array Darkcbr's Avatar
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    Or you could try feathering the clutch. These bikes tend to be jerky at low rpms because they're not designed to be operated at such low rpms.

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