An oil story..
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Thread: An oil story..

  1. #1
    Ridin hard n dirty Array Mr.Sushi ya ha's Avatar
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    An oil story..

    So now that I am on a cruiser, A bike with nothing performance oriented about it. I of course needed to know if it could do a wheelie or nose wheelie. In the process I found the thing couldnt do shit cause the clutch slipped a bit and the stock pads wouldn't even lock the front wheel. So I got some performance EBC springs and front pads.

    What I found was I used my typical 10-40 Quaker State "performance" oil and still had slipping issues. SO I figured the springs were wrong and got another set from Barnett Racing.

    I just again last night took the clutch apart to put in the new springs and found they were wrong. Anyways I did some on line searching about clutch slipping on these and there is a problem since they only have 4 springs. And the fix was to use the EBC springs and Diesel oil??? Well I have never used it but since I got a diesel truck and a huge inventory of diesel oil I figure WTF. I need to solve this slipping.

    If I hadnt done it I would never have believed the difference! Prior to diesel oil I could just drop the clutch in first and the bike would nicely take off as if you were slipping the clutch. in 4th-5th I could rev it and drop the clutch and it would slip until I got off the gas. Now off the line it can do a burnout half way across the intersection and will chirp the tire in 2nd and 3rd and no more slipping in the higher gears.

    The other thing I noticed was the engine got quieter, not so much ticking.

    But sadly still no wheelies...without the help of a speed bump.

    I guess in the race/performance bikes where you have 6 springs there was always enough pressure to not slip. But with a 4 spring clutch there is barely enough spring pressure to make it work and when you add "slippery" oil that is just enough to let the thing slip under hard use.

    I do wonder now if the EBC springs were even needed? Maybe just needed the proper oil?

    But for anyone with clutch issues I would start with an oil change. There is something to that diesel oil.
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  2. #2
    medicated 4 ur protection Array syncro's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Registered User Array OneTrack's Avatar
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    Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic??

  4. #4
    Ridin hard n dirty Array Mr.Sushi ya ha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by syncro View Post
    don't let chia read this, he'll get confused.
    NOTE! Diesel OIL!! not Diesel fuel!!!
    Remembering Bill Mclean.
    Having had a colonoscopy......I have now seen where the sun don't shine......(Me)
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  5. #5
    Ridin hard n dirty Array Mr.Sushi ya ha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneTrack View Post
    Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic??
    Castrol Diesel 15-40 is what I put in. I am going to stay away from anything that has "synthetic" "energy saving" or "reduced friction" on the label. I do run Motorcycle specific oils in my race bikes but for the street bikes I have never had no problems with just auto 10-40 until this bike. I do oil changes frequently. Usually at the end of the season before storage and depending on use 1-2 times during the season. Sometimes less then 1000 k.
    Remembering Bill Mclean.
    Having had a colonoscopy......I have now seen where the sun don't shine......(Me)
    Cancer Sucks!!!

  6. #6
    West Koots, I'm here.... Array flyfishinwoman's Avatar
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    Taken from a site about the Suzuki Intruder v-twin (1400cc_):

    If your going to dump the oil and want to switch to an oil that is known to work well in these bikes then Shell Rotella T (15w40) or T6 (5w40)....They can be purchased cheaply at walmart by the gallon.

    Rotella is a diesel oil that is now JASO-MA motorcycle rated. It works VERY well in these bikes. If you where using the wrong oil you usually have slipping issues.
    My husband's bike is a S83 (Intruder) and the next oil change we'll be using Rotella.
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  7. #7
    That new bike smell Array mondocycle's Avatar
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    NOOOOOB Array htdub's Avatar
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    Yay, a pre winter oil thread!
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  9. #9
    West Koots, I'm here.... Array flyfishinwoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mondocycle View Post
    So it's effective and relatively inexpensive for all engine types? V-twins, inline 4's, I'm assuming V-4's? Any VFR owners out there using Rotella?

    Think I'll be using that oil from now on in all the bikes.
    Back in BC, yay!!!
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  10. #10
    NOOOOOB Array htdub's Avatar
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    Rotella is great stuff, google it, probaly most discussed oil topic ever. $20 for the big jug in the states.
    Buying something on Amazon, use my affiliate links to support my motorcycle racing. Every little bit counts. WMRC 250 Class FTW - #702, MUCHO GRACIAS!

    WTB: PW50 Bike for my kids

  11. #11
    Ridin hard n dirty Array Mr.Sushi ya ha's Avatar
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    I was at Walmart and they have the Shell in 5 liter jugs for $26.00 I think? Jugs and prices were all over the shelf. But since I keep a heap of diesel oil for my truck in stock I will try it in my other bikes? I was impressed at how instantly quiet the engine got. And the huge difference in clutch slipping. Like I said if I hadnt done it I would never believe the difference...Gonna do my TTR next since last time out it sounded like it needed a slight valve adjustment.
    Remembering Bill Mclean.
    Having had a colonoscopy......I have now seen where the sun don't shine......(Me)
    Cancer Sucks!!!

  12. #12
    for the crumpet I suppose Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by mondocycle View Post
    Not Synthetic at all. Highly refined dinosaur oil. What Casterol won the right to call Synthetic. But it is not synthetic at all: they start with crude oil, and take out virtually all the wax. Hence the max grade range: 5W40.

    True synthetics can do a 0W40. Delvac one is the oil I use since Esso cut XD3 Extra 0W40, and it is a great PAO base stock 0W40. No clutch issues for me.

    I would be very interested in hearing how that oil performes in your bike, Mr. Sushi. Will provide the oil if you like.

  13. #13
    That new bike smell Array mondocycle's Avatar
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    Name:  Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
Views: 196
Size:  17.1 KB

    Don't know what Casterol or Castrol has to do with Shell oil clearly labelled as synth.
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  14. #14
    for the crumpet I suppose Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by mondocycle View Post
    Name:  Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
Views: 196
Size:  17.1 KB

    Don't know what Casterol or Castrol has to do with Shell oil clearly labelled as synth.
    Yea, I know. Caster whatever won a legal fight (against Mobil) to call the oil from their advanced hydrocracking process "Synthetic". It is not, though it is very close. Almost all of the molecules are the same. But the stuff is not as good as a PAO or Ester synthetic. These base stocks do not come from the ground, but are actually manufactured (though I believe one of the inputs is still oil, perhaps this is what confused the judge). This is what Synthetic means to me. They are superior lubricants in almost every way, though your Rottella or any other 5W40 Group 4 base is very, very good.

    Thing is, if they could not call it Synthetic, I wager you would be paying less for it. It should just be called "Syn-tec". Nothing wrong with that. But now, of course, almost everyone has to make a "synthetic" group 4.

    To see the difference, put a 0W40 and a 5W40 in your deep freeze. Use shot glasses.
    Last edited by dasein; 09-04-2011 at 08:04 PM.

  15. #15
    awful human Array bottomfeeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mondocycle View Post
    Name:  Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
Views: 196
Size:  17.1 KB
    Don't know what Casterol or Castrol has to do with Shell oil clearly labelled as synth.

    Rotella is 3% synthetic, 97% dino. As long as there is "some" synthetic oil in there they can legally label it as "synthetic". It works OK in bikes and has a very high detergent content, but will shear out of grade in less than half the time it takes a 100% synthetic oil to.

    Motorcycle transmissions are one of the harshest environments for oil. A diesel oil is not designed to withstand the shear forces present in a motorcycle transmission so if you use a diesel oil in your bike I recommend changing it twice as often as you normally would. When an oil has sheared out of grade, it becomes thinner and the transmission will shift noticeably worse. When the oil is thinner it also does no favors for the engine in your bike as well.


    I have done a fair amount of research on this topic and the two best performing oils you can put in your bike are: Amsoil followed very closely by mobil1 motorcycle specific oil.
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