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Brake bleeding question.

1K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  72RA21 
#1 ·
SO at the last Pitt Meadows track day, Blair from SV Racing was talking to a bunch of us new guys about rebleeding the front brake to get a firmer feel at only a half pull on the lever, but I can't for the life of me remember the order that he said to bleed it off.

I think he said to pull the lever all the way on and zap-strap or tie it down over night? Does this force the fluid and air toward the master so it can be burped after? Also, can you do a straight lever pump bleed from the nipple, or do you need an actual burp, bleeding tool to get the most air and water out?

Anything you guys can add will be most helpful.

Cheers,

Ryan
 
#6 ·
Believe it or not, the lever zip-tie method does not require opening any bleeder valve (or any other part of the hydraulic circuit). Amazingly enough, the brake lever can firm up the front lever like no other way can, and braking power and modulation can improve many folds.

If anyone would like to see what is happening, get a syringe and pressurize some brake fluid. You will be able to see clearly how air bubbles get compressed to such a small size that you can't hardly see them. But yet, they are still air bubbles. Since the air bubbles are so small, it would be basically impossible for almost all the air bubbles to get trapped. But it does take some time. I would recommend a minimum of 14 hours. But longer is better, especially if you don't want the mushiness to come back as quickly or as much. Once zip-tie is cut, the air molecules will rise into the reservoir once the return port opens.

The important part is that the reservoir must be mounted above the master cylinder, and if there is a hose, it must be steadily rising to the reservoir from the master cylinder. In addition, the bike must be upright (so the master cylinder (brake lever) is the at the highest point, but below the reservoir).
 
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