Safety Wiring: Tools and Info
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Thread: Safety Wiring: Tools and Info

  1. #1
    Accelerus Maximus Array RubHerDown's Avatar
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    Safety Wiring: Tools and Info

    Looking for some good info on motorcycle
    specific safety wiring...

    Specifically looking for an easily carried (on
    the bike) tool, and thoughts on which ones
    work well, last, etc

    Also - any thoughts on the wire (gauge,
    stainless, etc)?

    Lastly - any local sources...

    Thanks !
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  3. #2
    Registered User Array overdraft's Avatar
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    your local race club's rulebook has a good section on safety wiring... http://www.wmrc.ca/wp-content/upload...13-finalv3.pdf
    i think if it's sold as safety wire it's stainless (or monel or something non-ferrous)
    .032 seems to be the go to guage...
    any bike shop should have both the wire and the pliers, although you might try something like princess auto if you have one nearby... if they have the pliers they'll probably be cheaper, but if they're not nearby and don't have them you'll blow the savings pissing around... so screw it... just buy from your local bike shop! it's the right thing to do!

  4. #3
    Twin A Array Jaybo's Avatar
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    you can get the wire for sure from Mspeed. SS, .032 gauge (I think) he can probably get the 6" lock pliers in or already has them.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ers-45340.html
    Last edited by Jaybo; 05-15-2013 at 04:04 PM.
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  5. #4
    Beer League Racer/Asshole Array SnoDragon's Avatar
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    I don't like the .32 gauge as I feel it's too thick. I prefer the .25 gauge, as it's still strong enough and not too thin. Perfect compromise. Remember that safety wire is to prevent a screw or nut from backing out. You don't have to go thick on the wire for that to happen. As for pliers, well depending on how much you will use them. The cheapo $20 KMS/Princess/Cheap Chinese pliers that can be had anywhere will do the trick. MANY racers at the track have been using those for years, and their duty cycle is likely to be heavier than yours.
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  6. #5
    NOOOOOB Array htdub's Avatar
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    You can get the pliers from almost anywhere, but mspeed, svracing.com have them readily.

    I like the thinner .25 wire, bit easier to work with.

    Youtube has lots of videos.

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  7. #6
    Registered User Array overdraft's Avatar
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    ya, that's the roadracer in me... if you go to Washington they require .032
    not sure about mx racing...
    if you're not racing then it doesn't matter
    actually i always figure safety wire is just visual proof that you've torqued correctly... i've never imagined that i was actually relying on it to prevent a fastener from backing out!

  8. #7
    Beer League Racer/Asshole Array SnoDragon's Avatar
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    wmrra has never asked me what gauge my safety wire was....hmmmmm.
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  9. #8
    Registered User Array overdraft's Avatar
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    ya, me neither... it's in their rulebook tho
    Last edited by overdraft; 05-15-2013 at 04:49 PM. Reason: i before e except after c unless pronounced 'eh' as in neigbour and weigh

  10. #9
    Registered User Array
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    no one's mentioned it but an air drill seems to work the best. i've safety wired many, many bikes and the drill made the difference in broken bits. in fact the only thing my air drill does is drill 1/16" holes for safety wire.

  11. #10
    Registered User Array Tra5is's Avatar
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    Mark two places before you remove the bolt to drill it. First a line along the bolt to whatever it's on. You can use this mark to retighten to a similar torque and position. Second, mark the spot where you want to drill the hole. That way when the bolts go back in they're on the proper side and angle to allow the wire to tighten them to whatever they're wired to. This way you really only need one hole on the bolt.

    Also, use a bit of oil on the tip of the drill bit to keep it sharp. From my experience the reason the bit breaks is because as the bit exits the other side it catches in the partial hole and breaks. Nearing the end of my drilling escapade I found that the oil crept up the bit into the chuck and when it caught the bit spun in the chuck, rather than breaking. Worked nice after going through about 14 bits. The last bit I had drilled about 5 holes, compared to one bit per hole.

  12. #11
    Registered User Array Tra5is's Avatar
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    Also, the cheap chinese lockwire pliers drive me crazy. I got mine at holeshot. Issues: 3 twists and releases and the lock pops open. The gooves in the teeth are not done well, or consistent across the surface and don't grip well on certain angles resulting in having to regrip the wire often. Sometimes one half of the wire jumps out when you pull. The cutter section is absolutely useless. Even bending the wire back and forth in it barely allows the wire to cut. I have another pair of cutters that I need to use.

    If all that is something you can live with, go for it. I just curse the damn things every time I pick them up. I've used another type that are actually useful and don't necessitate the need for another tool just to cut the wire.

  13. #12
    Beer League Racer/Asshole Array SnoDragon's Avatar
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    Don't drill! Go here and get the race-spec bolts. Like candy. http://www.probolt-usa.com/

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  14. #13
    Accelerus Maximus Array RubHerDown's Avatar
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    Nice Info All - Thanks !

    I have used nut or bolt clamps in the past, that hold
    things steady and provide a guide hole for the drill
    bit - eliminates the bit breaking.
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  15. #14
    Registered User Array LCPeter's Avatar
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    The one I bought at holeshot seems fine and they have wire as well. Its the same one that's in the video.
    Last edited by LCPeter; 05-16-2013 at 08:29 AM.
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  16. #15
    oldskool suzuki rules Array maggotbreath's Avatar
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    http://www.pacificfasteners.com/

    Local supplier of SS wire, don't bother with thier selection of SS fasteners though.

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