Technical aspects of riding SRP. What gear, which turns, when to brake.... Tips????
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Thread: Technical aspects of riding SRP. What gear, which turns, when to brake.... Tips????

  1. #1
    Team No Team Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2002

    Technical aspects of riding SRP. What gear, which turns, when to brake.... Tips????

    From you guys that are experienced there, what are some tips that you have? I know from the Race course being told exactly where to shift, brake, which markers to use helps immensely. Like during the kink before the sweeper at tradex, you would brake right near the end of the straight all the way into the kink and downshift in the kink (vs downshifting at the end of the straight) and then get on the gas right when you exit the kink, etc.....

    I've heard some testimonials, but I'd like to see what the opinions are out there?

    So my questions are:
    1. Which cone do you start braking at down the front straight?
    2. Do you trail brake all the way into turn 2?
    3. What gear do you take the big left hand sweeper (2?) in? Some say 4th, some say 3rd. Depends on the bike I guess
    4. Where is the apex in turn 2? Its like it has 2 apexes cause its such a long turn, so which apex do you aim for?
    5. What marker do you use for braking in turn 4 (turn where small dirt road to exit is)
    6. Hairpins turns 6 & 7 - second gear?
    7. For the guys who's style involves them knee sliding - how many turns do you get them down on? I get it down on turn 2, the two hairpins. But I can see them going down in turn 10, maybe turn 4 also...

    Any other advice would be wicked as well!
    Last edited by lowprofile; 06-23-2003 at 10:44 PM.

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  3. #2
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Oh sure, so NOW you ask....

    For my po' li'l F2....

    • The first turn sweeper ( the REAL first turn ) is taken by me at close to full speed with just a little throttle roll off braking before turning in at the paint spots on the outside of the track after the cones. No braking, or only a touch because I'm a chicken. Next time it's no braking and just a roll off to cruise. I shouldn't need any compression braking either. Your bike may want a touch of braking. The others said use the top of 5th but frankly you're going to be braking for 2 as soon as you straighten up so there's no point in downshifting on the straight. Just feather off and brake to feel comfy and save the serious stuff for after the road joint bump on the exit of one.
    • After 1 and straightening up part way before I go over the pavement joint I brake for turn one. I'm still braking too early and not carrying enough speed into 2 but next time I'll do better. You should be able to go about 1/2 way from the joint to the entry of 2 before you brake and then trail off the brakes for about the first 1/3 of the turn. Turn two is a middle of 4th for me with a nice shot out of the exit and quick shift to 5th. Keep mostly to the right of the track through the kinks, it's less bumpy that way (thanks PH-Q2 ).
    • Turn 3 is taken in 5th with no braking but you MUST enter into the turn at the right place or as you come over the crest in the middle of 3 there's no track surface in front of you or you're way out of shape. I don't remember exactly where but it's earlier than you think.
    • Go well down into the next mini straight and brake hard either just before the tower there or at the tower with a downshift to third. This can be done in fourth at a higher speed but you'll find you're screwed up for the entry into the left hand 5. 5 is an increasing radius corner so you can accelerate strongly through it and hit 4th for a moment or just run the limiter in third before coming into the first hairpin (turn 6). I'm actually hitting 4th for enough time to make it worthwhile.
    • A quick shot up and run the limiter or close to it and you're at 7, the second hairpin. It's a funny approach that sort of wants you to turn in early but stay out a little longer and use the track at the entry for a fairly late apex and nice shot down into the left hand turn 8. Your times will thank you for it. 2nd through both hairpins with a possible short hop to 3rd between the two if you want to bother.
    • Turn 8 is the open left hander and should not need any braking or very little for your bike. Just choose a line that maximizes the turn's radius. But with the banking on the outside it's intimidating. My F2 just needs a slight roll off the throttle and cruise through. Faster riders may brake a little. 3rd gear for this one with a change to 4th either before or after, I don't remember which.
    • Turn 9 is that tighter left hander before the track entrance. That's a 2nd gear corner in my books for now but I can see how others that are taking this more seriously are probably doing it in 3rd but the dirt banking on the outside brings out my poultry feathers again so I doubt if I'll get that serious. On the exit of 9 I stay hung off to the left and just bend the bike to the right to set up for turn 10 while shifting up to 3rd for use in 10.
    • I cruise around 10 at a pace that keeps me WELL away from the outside on the exit. No way I want to examine that wall too closely. Screw the lap times for that one. I apex probably very late for 10 as well. Last time there was a bit of a lumber thingy with some gear piled up about 2/3 of the way around. I was using that as my apex to start my exit and straighten up and roll on the power for the straight. Also I was only using about 1/2 the track width for the exit in my fervor to stay away from that outer wall. From there it was tuck and rest for a few seconds down the straight.

    So hows that sound?
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

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