Brake bleeding tips?
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Thread: Brake bleeding tips?

  1. #1
    Registered User Array RoscoeP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Comox, BC
    KTM 625 smc & DR 650

    Question Brake bleeding tips?

    Tee-Tee, anybody, I am going to replace my brake lines and any advice would be appreciated. I have a brake bleeder but have never used it. Also are speed bleeder usefull? And do you have to also bleed from the top near the master cylinder?

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  3. #2
    Got Hammer? Array gixxstar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    The Mighty One
    Just changed mine the other day. I got a set of goodrich steel braided lines. The fittings were shit. They leaked really bad after torqued up and one snapped when I tightened it down some more. The stock fitting were way stronger. The speed bleeder did jack for me but that's probably because of the leaks, it uses suction. My suggestions? It's nice to have two bottles of brake fluid. Drain the whole system first. A syringe helps speed it up by pulling the fluid out of the master cylender but is not necessary. Keep a hose or a bottle of water and plenty of rags in case you spill brake fluid, very nasty to paint if you leave it there. Keep your eye on the resevoir. Keep it full. If you run it dry you'll have to bleed it all over again. Gloves are good to have. Brake fluid is bad for you too. Work the banjo bolts in and out before you put the lines on and torque them properly. For some reason the threads were very stiff after a few minutes with no banjo bolts in them. Good luck.

  4. #3
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Two things that I have found really help on a motorcycle...

    First off if you got one of the Mighty-Vac or similar vacumn bleeders they work great but you do tend to get air leaking around the bleeder threads. A wipe of some thick grease around the base of the bleeder seals this and you can then see that the air coming out is actually from INSIDE the caliper and not the tiny bubble "froth" that indicates the air is sneaking around the bleeder threads.

    Second, with modern 4 or 6 piston calipers I've found that it really helps to have them dangling off the bike and the pads safely on the bench beside you. This lets you orient the caliper so the air passages are high as you work the inside and outside banks of cylinders. Make up a plywood or other spacer to hold the pistons in place for one caliper and work with the other at one time. Bleed for a while and then pump the lever to push the pistons out a little and then massage them in and out to alternateley introduce fluid into the cylinder and then pump the air back out to the next higher cylinder. Otherwise I found that purging the lower cylinders just seems to take forever. It really helps if you have opened a caliper so you know where the passage holes are and can orient the caliper so the holes are the highest point for each cylinder in question. The "problem" is that the lower cylinders are a dead end and the middle or upper have upper and lower holes. This applies to both the outer and inside sets that are only joined by a single passage accross the top.

    When the first side seems good then move the piston spacer and work on the other. You'll may or may not have to go back and forth once or twice to get any small bubbles that are left.

    Good luck and have patience.... and a spare bottle of fluid...
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

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