Help me with: Proper brake pad / rotor bedding / break in procedure?
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Thread: Help me with: Proper brake pad / rotor bedding / break in procedure?

  1. #1
    Team No Team Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2002

    Help me with: Proper brake pad / rotor bedding / break in procedure?

    Ideally how should u do this on the street?
    Is it different than cars, where you do progressively more sudden stops, at varying speeds?
    And how do you do this at the track, when say u swap in new pads just before a race. Can you bed them in a few warm-up laps?
    With new pads, existing rotors, you still have to sand down both the pads and the rotors to remove any glaze right?
    Do you have to sand in any direction?
    What's a good grit to use?
    Does anyone use anything other than stock factory pads / EBC HH?

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  3. #2
    Got Hammer? Array gixxstar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    The Mighty One
    I just do a little swirley pattern around both sides of each rotor with 600 grit. I broke the pads in same as you said, a few progressively harder stops up to full braking power. I would assume you can get the job done in a lap or two at the track, at least that's the way that I'm going to try

  4. #3
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Just do it like you said.

    Glaze? Rotors don't glaze. Pads USED to glaze but I have not heard of anyone having that happen in the past 20 or more years. I'm not sure the new pad formulations CAN glaze. I think that's a holdover story from the days of the 57 chevy's or 66 Fairmonts. OK, so Harleys probably do it all the time but hey.... That's them...

    And as for sanding unless you can have the rotors surface ground there's really not much point in sanding them. Just a cleaning with some brake cleaner on a paper towel to ensure there's no oils, dirt or other contaminants on the rotors. The pads will soon adapt to the shape of any minor grooves on the rotors. And any that are not minor are probably a good reason to get new rotors. Our motorcycle stuff isn't that thick to begin with these days.

    I went to Mission with a second wheel set and new tires. By the time I finished a couple of scrub in laps for the tires the brakes felt fine. In fact they felt fine right off the bat.

    But I have had pads on other bikes that didn't stop so well until they bedded in so when I feel that sort of reaction to my efforts I just go reasonably easy and give them a little time to take their shape.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  5. #4
    Rageaholic Array Jayson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Canon 1ds3 1d4
    i been told (for race pads) go to 100, stop as fast as you can, repeat that 12 more times, and let everything cool down, and yer done.

    brake pads and rotors are made of many different materials, so who knows a definative. when i put new pads on i do a light scuff of the rotor with some fine sandpaper for peace of mind, if i have time and space ill do the 13 stops thing, if not ill just ride.. few good hard laps should be good

  6. #5
    Registered User Array
    Join Date
    May 2002
    West Vancouver
    '79 Honda 500SE<- Joke, I have a nice bike
    I was always taught somethign totaly different. I was taught to drag the brake lightly for a while then do the mashing thing. This was to let the pad mould to the shape of the disk prior to maximum force being applied. More of a car thing really. If you slam a new (flat) pad against a used (not flat) disk then the pressure across the face of the pad is uneven. This could lead to all sorts of problems. If you drag it for a while the pad has a chance to adapt at least a little before you start mashing them together.


  7. #6
    this is my...boomstick! Array CrotchetyRocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    click, click
    Any of these methods will work fine give today's pad materials and the great steel found in motorcycle rotors. Consider it one less thing to worry your pretty little head about....


  8. #7
    Registered User Array PH-Q2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Kelowna BC
    1198 S 999R 990 superduke
    Any time I break in new pad's HH or other I'v stayed in the lot of the track and rode with the front brake on till the rotor's are good and hot(about 2 minutes at 60-100 kmh) then let them totally cool down(about 3-5 min)

    As for rubbing sandpaper on disc , I only use a sharpening stone 100 % flat surface. I guess if you were to use a 600 grit and a block of wood or something behind it (for a flat surface)that would be OK but I won't use just sandpaper and not have a 100% flat surface to put behind it.

    A sharpening stone can be had for $7 at Cambodian tire and if ya use it properly , you can doo both sides of a disc without even removing it from the bike.
    Getting married is like stickin your hand in a running lawnmower.....if you are'll only do it ONCE !
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  9. #8
    Its quiet in here! Array Biker69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    1993 CBR900RR
    I've gone through tons of brake pads, don't waste your time sanding your rotors. Never done it and never will. There is a slight chance you won't get all the grit out after sanding and you could do more harm than good. Just change pads and break in as the guys above have said.
    Head tech inspector-WMRC

    2000 GSXR750 racebike for sale-

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  10. #9
    Jason R
    Marbod told me just to stop from fifty km about twenty od times and they are good to go. You will basicly know when you start doing stoppies that they are ready.

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