All right....first off, I have to admit that I'm pretty clueless about electrical components but this ought to be fairly straight forward for someone more experienced. I installed a set of these on my bike recently on my race glass so I didn't have to go back and forth to stock on race weekends.
These things are really bright! I'm happy with them for sure. The problem is they made it out to work in N. Van. today. I'm almost positive that they were working when I shut it off. I started the bike up after work today and they didn't come on. The lowbeam fuse was blown. Now this made a lot of sense to me but maybe it was the wrong thing to do. The lights only have a positive and a ground lead so I wired up both the highbeam and lowbeam leads to the positive on the lights My highbeams haven't worked for quite some time, I think that fuse is blown as well . Anyway, as a short term solution, I just branched the lowbeam circuit with a piece of wire to get home. The lights went out in a very bad place on the way home but then went on all of a sudden with the highbeams and lowbeams working again. I've no idea.
I guess the most important part is, is it all right to have the high and low beams wired like that onto single filament bulbs? Also, those are 55 W according to the website and have a 25 A fuse along with them. Too much for my gixxer's circuit? Both high and low circuits have 15 A fuses. I'd replace all the wiring if need be, this mod is staying for sure! Any other thoughts or suggestions?
this is my...boomstick!
Mkay, you have 2 of these right, one is intended to be "low" and one is "high"; that's the general idea, right?
Originally Posted by gixxstar
One thing is clear to me, you need to upgrade the wiring harness. If it works for a while right, then goes out, you are overloading the relay, the wiring or the switch, and none is long for the world.
Two 30 amp auto relays, some 12 gauge wire, 2 fuse holders'll do it. Use the existing headlight wires, high and low, as your trigger wire for each of the relays, and run your leads to the lights from there. Problems will be over forever and your electrical and charging systems will like you again.
A standard relay hooks this way:
30 = hi-power feed (fused)
85 = relay coil ground
86 = trigger wire (any 12v switched will do but, the headlight wiring is right there)
87 = output (normally open contact)
I don't think you're overloading your circuit at 55W, that's only 4 1/2 amps at 12 volts. You do have some sort of bad connection though and Crotch's suggestion will clear that up.
this is my...boomstick!
True, it should be no problemo but, he's running 2 and the amount of resistance has more significance than the amps needed, since resistance displays the condition of the circuit. Somethin's cookin' and it don't smell right. It's actually quite horrifying what passes for adequate circuitry for headlights, in both cars and bikes. Lots of corner cutting there.
Originally Posted by Bikerider
I ain't no electrical mastermind but, I have discovered that making everything overkill from the supply side out, rather than the output side in works alot better.
Now, I'll reiterate Bikerider reiterating me :Rewire it.
ya gotta post the pics man .
buy a seperate fuse link ,like the type for car stereos and hard wire it into the fuse box.Use the kickstand switch hookup as your power source.
or get a relay/fuse /switch harness ,,they come wiht most aftermarket light set-ups .Then its just straight to the battery and it is its own self contained harness by itself.I might have an extra set up .Same as on my f4 and it never failed all summer .Then you can mount the switch wherever you want .Its perfect when you want to shut off your lights at night when you know damn well you went by that cop at 140 not 80 km
Last edited by FAROH; 02-22-2004 at 08:20 AM.