plate and paint
hi! i know this isnt the right forum to ask...but does any one know how much is it to custom fuly plate a ninja 500? and do a simple ( black) paint job on it? thanks!
You mean chrome it? I'd say $2.5-3.5k for all the major stuff and a few of the minor details. That depends on what exactly you want done and whether you can disassemble the bike or not. Paint job anywhere from 400-1000 depending on if it needs any bodywork and if you take everything off for them. Shop around!
hahha :| shit... paint can be done for 400 bucks or so.
Chrome? funk it... polish it!
*I GOT THIS FROM THE R1-FORUM*
The Rules for Starters.
For anyone that is interested in polishing.. You need to know this.. You do it once.. you'll do it again.. It's kinda a drug..
First you will need to get a wide arrangement of sand grits. Starting with: 220, 320, 400, 600, 800. 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 (some people even go up to 3000 but it's not needed). If at all possible buy wet sanding paper (black), using the sand paper with water will make the shine more and more mirror like.
Paint stripper (airline works best.. But also your normal everyday stripper works well.. MAKE SURE! it's in a thick form that way it won't run and be compleatly messy.
If you decide you want to polish more and more.. Investing in an orbital, 1/4 sheet sander, or Dremel Contour Sander (good for hard to get places) will be a great investment. Using a power sander will greatly cut your sanding time. I usually only use the power tool for only the first grit (220).
Now that you have all your tools lined up. It's the stripping process. It is VERY important to get rid of as much paint at possible, because the paint will "goo" the sand paper making you burn through paper like a wildfire.
Once stripping is finished. Move onto sanding.. make sure you sand in one direction. (try to follow the metal's grain) I know I know.. It can sometimes be hard to tell the grain's direction... But when yer hand sanding with 220.. One direction will shine better than the others. That's your grain. THE FIRST GRIT IS VERY IMPORTANT!.. any lazyness in missing pits or leaving scratches will result in a bad apperance.. I can not stress enough the 220 grit is single handedly the one thing you CAN NOT RUSH!.
Once you finish the 220 grit.. the rest is a breeze.. I recomend using wet sanding now. Start with 220 wet (if you have a large tub or shower throw the stuff in there and do this sanding). when you have finished with that grit wash entirely, and move onto 320 to remove the scratches the 220 left. Wash again... use this same system with the 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 grits.
When you finish the sanding.. polish the entire thing down with a buffing wheel and White then Red Rouge compound. Then finish it iff with an ally/mag polish. I reccomend "Mothers Incredible Billet Ally Polish" ($11 retail 4oz can). Make sure to buff very well.. The better you buff the better it looks.
Now take a shave in your newly polished part.
I hope this all helps. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd times of polishing are the hardest... Once you become seasoned at it.. It'll become a piece o cake
It'll all depend, aluminum and stainless can be polished, but NOT plated, you'll have to re-polish it every couple years, possibly more depending on how you want it to look. Steel can be plated, although because it has to be polished first it can get expensive.
I dunno much about your bike, but based on the fact that it's a sport bike, I'd assume that there's very little to be plated, but a ton of polishing. If you don't mind spending a while in the winter doing it all yourself, it could be worth it and more rewarding than having someone else do it. There are many relatively cheap polishing compounds available that will bring out aluminum's natural blue a lot better after you've sanded/polished it to where you want.
Can't help you on the paint part.
Last edited by Chadwick; 08-05-2004 at 04:50 PM.