Help with paint job
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Thread: Help with paint job

  1. #1
    I'm hungry... Array tackle_me_2's Avatar
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    May 2004
    BMW F800ST

    Question Help with paint job

    I got some plastic primer and some paint (spray bomb) to paint my fairings. So I sanded everything down, filled in the scratches, and sanded again. Washed the fairings, let it dry, and I thought it'd be a breeze from here on.

    So I lean the fairing on the inside wall of a cardboard box, thinking that way it'll be easy to clean up afterwards, and I didn't have to protect the patio floor. [BTW, this is my first time doing something like this.] As I spray the 1st coat of primer, I was sucking in the fumes (no, no mask) and feeling high...and now a little light headed.

    The more important question is, (see pics below), what is this? Is this "orange peel"? What did I do wrong, and how do I save this now? Can somebody please help me?
    Last edited by tackle_me_2; 11-11-2004 at 04:02 PM.

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  3. #2
    First don't use cheap primer or paint the reason you got the finish you did could be because the primer was crap or you didn't shake the can enough.Or he surface you were about to prime had wax, oil or grease on it. You should use a wax/grease remover to clean before sanding. You can sand down what you have now and make it smooth and you should be able to prime it with no problem. Now when you paint it try to get a can with a wide spray pattern and don't stop start on your work. Also keep the paint wet while you work to avoid stripes. It's best to do medium or thin coats of paint rather then thick ones. Let the paint tack up before you spray the next coat. Good Luck

  4. #3
    You go squish now! Array mli35's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Rhubarbed.....RIP GPZ
    If you are doing it outside (patio) it may be to cold so the paint won't take. Most spray paint recommend room temperature or 21+ degrees. Another thing is if the primer is designed for plastics or fiber glass. Not to familiar with your product. Good luck.
    A bad day of riding is, still better than a good day of work.

  5. #4
    Moderator Array spinko's Avatar
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    May 2002
    tiz Red.
    Always use the same brand of paint/primers. The chemicals are different in each brand and may react poorly.
    BCSB- Moderator

  6. #5
    Registered User Array gixxer6's Avatar
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    Mar 2004
    2004 gsxr 750
    It looks like it was to cold when painting to me.

  7. #6
    If i were you, i'd sand it all smooth and spray it with Krylon Fusion that shit is good for plastics. only comes in a few basic colors though.
    And yeah you want to spray when its at least 15 degrees and fairly dry air. And like said before use same brand primer and paint. ALSO, you have to watch the drying time instructions. For example : "Recoat after 1-2 hours drying time, or 20 days after or paint will lift or crack". Dupli color for example is really bad for paint cracking and lifting if everething is not just right. Motomaster Can. Tire paints are also dupli color i belive. Only Dupli color paint i like is the dark grey metallic wheel paint. EASY to use and sticks to almost every surface.
    Take it from a guy who used enough spray cans to build a tower to the moon -Respirators ARE WORTH IT. buy the style with the 2 little filter cans, dust mask style won't help much.

  8. #7
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
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    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    What you have there is bad adhesion and hence the cracks in the primer film that occur when the primer skins and slides on the base while shrinking as it dries. The reason it's bad is one or more of the reasons given so far.

    It WAS too cold to paint outdoors today and if you did it while there was still some fog in the air or the grass and patio around you was soaking wet from the dew then the air would have been much too wet as well.

    Our time for painting outdoors this year has passed by a while back. Even at it's warmest today I don't think it was warm enough to spray that primer. You're stuck until late next Spring now I'm afraid. Or get a paint shop to do it. If you have a garage that is dry then you can spray in there and use a few incandescent lights to warm the place up a bit and dry the air. Even 15C of DRY air will work but it needs to be dry.

    But don't forget the other issues with wax on the original color (silicone based waxes are super bad for this) and the fact that the primer you used may not be compatible with the original color and clear overcoat. You may need to get a better primer. It's also not a great idea to spray in a box like that. You can't get at the edges and it's also possible that it cracked like that thanks to the fumes being held in the box and preventing the primer drying properly. It also limits your movements with the spray can and prevents you getting a nice even coat over the whole fairing.

    Find a closed place that you can warm up with a bunch of lights to help dry the air. The lights need to be the old bulb or spotlamp types or new halogen lights. Flourescents don't throw any heat and won't work as a combined heat and light source such as you need for your painting. Be sure the parts are at the room temperature or warmer. Cold parts will condense water from the air onto the parts and WILL cause problems. Stand the parts up on a box or old stool where you can get at them easily with the spray can. Cover the area with builder's plastic sheet to catch the overspray dust. Keep lights shining onto the parts while drying. It'll help warm them.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

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