Dead FZ 600
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Dead FZ 600

  1. #1
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600

    Dead FZ 600

    So I picked up my first bike today! 86 FZ 600

    First part of the story:

    Everything was fine until about 2km's from home..... bike stalled and died. No spark to fire up the engine. My girlfriend was following me in our car so we pulled into a lot and i jump started the bike. It starts and runs fine until you pull the jumper cables off. Then it dies again.

    Ok.... I'm thinking that it is the alternator that crapped out. Any thoughts?
    AND..... can alternators just "die"? or do go out over time?

    Second Part:
    I phone the guys who sold me the bike and he wasn't home. I talked to his buddy instead (a BCSB member who recommended the bike to me). Told him the story and he ended up towing his trailer from langley to help me get my bike home. thx again Mark! the bike would probably still be sitting there.

    Thanks, Trevor



  2. Remove Advertisements
    BCSportBikes.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    scuccato
    Guest

    Unhappy Rotor and stator

    Those years of FZ's were really bad for the rotor and stator going on them. I remember when there were quite a few used ones and the ad read "new rotor and stator". That is your charging system and likely why it won't run without a jumpstart. Hopefully didn't dummy the battery too.


    Quote Originally Posted by phantomgti
    So I picked up my first bike today! 86 FZ 600

    First part of the story:

    Everything was fine until about 2km's from home..... bike stalled and died. No spark to fire up the engine. My girlfriend was following me in our car so we pulled into a lot and i jump started the bike. It starts and runs fine until you pull the jumper cables off. Then it dies again.

    Ok.... I'm thinking that it is the alternator that crapped out. Any thoughts?
    AND..... can alternators just "die"? or do go out over time?

    Second Part:
    I phone the guys who sold me the bike and he wasn't home. I talked to his buddy instead (a BCSB member who recommended the bike to me). Told him the story and he ended up towing his trailer from langley to help me get my bike home. thx again Mark! the bike would probably still be sitting there.

    Thanks, Trevor



  4. #3
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    When I hit the starter button, there is a definate fast "clicking" sound from under the seat. Is that where the started is located?

    Is it "stator" or is it just a typo?

    How could I tell for sure without having to replace everything? And seeing that it is stuck in my garage, not paying for a tow to a shop?


    Quote Originally Posted by scuccato
    Those years of FZ's were really bad for the rotor and stator going on them. I remember when there were quite a few used ones and the ad read "new rotor and stator". That is your charging system and likely why it won't run without a jumpstart. Hopefully didn't dummy the battery too.

  5. #4
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Those are two proper and separate terms. Starter is the electic motor that starts the bike. The stator is the field coil and iron core that is inside the alternator. On most bikes these days a set of magnets in a rotor runs in the shell shaped stator and generates 3 phase AC power. Your rectifier/regulator box converts that to DC to charge your battery.

    First off the battery is toast. The clicking is the STARTER relay cutting in and out quickly because there is just enough power to engage the relay to connect the battery to the starter motor. But the load of the motor sucks the power down far enough that the voltage won't hold the relay in so it opens. The battery voltage then rises high enough to engage the relay again which passes the power to the starter motor that sucks the voltage down which makes the relay let go, etc, etc, etc. And the result is a set of slow to rapid clicks and no motor turning.

    Do a search within the Bike Teck forum for alternator testing. It should turn lots of posts on how to test to see if your charging system is working. Hopefully you have a voltmeter and know how to use it. If you're not comfy working with a meter get someone that is or take it to a shop. But most likely if it's an old bike that was often in storage for lengthy times that the battery is just toast. The stator may be part of the problem but it sounds like the battery is really gone as well.

    Go to Crappy TIre and buy one of their small 1 amp motorcycle chargers. DO NOT USE A CAR BATTERY CHARGER. They are far too powerful to use on a motorcycle battery. Charge it up and see if the voltage is up after no more than 24 hours on the charger. Measure the voltage fresh off the charger and then again a day later. It should still be up a tenth or two over 12 volts if it's a good one. If the voltage gets below about 11.6 at any point after charging then it's toast.
    Last edited by TeeTee; 05-12-2005 at 01:37 AM.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  6. #5
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    The battery is new but dead now (obviously). I will look into the alternator testing etc with the voltmeter.

    Anybody live in the Surrey/Delta border area that could help a brother out?

    Thanks for your replies too!

    Quote Originally Posted by TeeTee
    Those are two proper and separate terms. Starter is the electic motor that starts the bike. The stator is the field coil and iron core that is inside the alternator. On most bikes these days a set of magnets in a rotor runs in the shell shaped stator and generates 3 phase AC power. Your rectifier/regulator box converts that to DC to charge your battery.

    First off the battery is toast. The clicking is the STARTER relay cutting in and out quickly because there is just enough power to engage the relay to connect the battery to the starter motor. But the load of the motor sucks the power down far enough that the voltage won't hold the relay in so it opens. The battery voltage then rises high enough to engage the relay again which passes the power to the starter motor that sucks the voltage down which makes the relay let go, etc, etc, etc. And the result is a set of slow to rapid clicks and no motor turning.

    Do a search within the Bike Teck forum for alternator testing. It should turn lots of posts on how to test to see if your charging system is working. Hopefully you have a voltmeter and know how to use it. If you're not comfy working with a meter get someone that is or take it to a shop. But most likely if it's an old bike that was often in storage for lengthy times that the battery is just toast. The stator may be part of the problem but it sounds like the battery is really gone as well.

    Go to Crappy TIre and buy one of their small 1 amp motorcycle chargers. DO NOT USE A CAR BATTERY CHARGER. They are far too powerful to use on a motorcycle battery. Charge it up and see if the voltage is up after no more than 24 hours on the charger. Measure the voltage fresh off the charger and then again a day later. It should still be up a tenth or two over 12 volts if it's a good one. If the voltage gets below about 11.6 at any point after charging then it's toast.

  7. #6
    Registered User Array dann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    White Rock
    Bike
    '04 GSXR 600
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomgti
    When I hit the starter button, there is a definate fast "clicking" sound from under the seat.
    Do you hear it when you it the starter or when you put the kill switch to run?

    With my old FZR it would click for a few seconds when i put it to run. If thats what is happening to you thats the fuel pump and is completely normal.

    It might have already been mentioned (didnt read whole thread) but you should check your voltage regulator and probably replace it even if its fine. Those tend to crap out on older Yamahas. You can pick them up off of Ebay for like $30-40 from a newer R6 or YZF600R. The swap is easy, and I can give you a hand with it if you want.



    Dan
    "It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees."
    -Emiliano Zapata

  8. #7
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    I hear it when I click the starter button. I bought a 1A charger as TeeTee recommended and it is charging as i type this.

    Dann... I may take you up on your offer. Know how to use a voltmeter? I don't, but I could sure use a hand.... your generosity will be rewarded!




    Quote Originally Posted by dann
    Do you hear it when you it the starter or when you put the kill switch to run?

    With my old FZR it would click for a few seconds when i put it to run. If thats what is happening to you thats the fuel pump and is completely normal.

    It might have already been mentioned (didnt read whole thread) but you should check your voltage regulator and probably replace it even if its fine. Those tend to crap out on older Yamahas. You can pick them up off of Ebay for like $30-40 from a newer R6 or YZF600R. The swap is easy, and I can give you a hand with it if you want.



    Dan

  9. #8
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    I found this fault finding diagram online and thought it may be useful to others.

    https://www.electrosport.com/electro...t_finding.html

    I'm going to give it a go and see what happens.

  10. #9
    Registered User Array radmtrbkr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    van
    Bike
    Gravity Warp Drive
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomgti
    I found this fault finding diagram online and thought it may be useful to others.

    https://www.electrosport.com/electro...t_finding.html

    I'm going to give it a go and see what happens.
    nice find trevor

  11. #10
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600

    One last thought

    I just want to throw this out there just incase it has any relevance to my bike and the battery dying.

    When I was riding home, I had the high-beams on the entire time. If the battery was shot to begin with, and not a new one as I thought, would the headlights contribute to the complete draining of the battery? even though the engine was running?

    And as I jumped the battery in the parking, the engine at idle would still not be enough to charge the battery?

    The traffic pace was good and wasn't stop and go averaging about 50 km/h or so. When I took my Action course, they disconnected the headlights during the lot practice because they said we weren't going fast enough to keep the battery charged.

    I have not run the bike since charging the battery last night. That is something I'll do this afternoon.

    Just a thought.

  12. #11
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomgti
    .....And as I jumped the battery in the parking, the engine at idle would still not be enough to charge the battery?......
    That's right. The battery is still draining at idle and up to around 2000'ish depending on the bike.

    For a battery that's really dead even a one hour ride at 50'ish isn't going to bring the charge up fully. Best to trickle charge for about a 24 hour period.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  13. #12
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    Thanks TeeTee..... i sure hope to hell that it's a fuxed up battery. Damn stators are expensive!

    I only got about a half hour of riding in before everything went bad.

    Borrowing a voltmeter tonight and will see how the battery holds it charge.


    Quote Originally Posted by TeeTee
    That's right. The battery is still draining at idle and up to around 2000'ish depending on the bike.

    For a battery that's really dead even a one hour ride at 50'ish isn't going to bring the charge up fully. Best to trickle charge for about a 24 hour period.

  14. #13
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    Go to Crappy TIre and buy one of their small 1 amp motorcycle chargers. DO NOT USE A CAR BATTERY CHARGER. They are far too powerful to use on a motorcycle battery. Charge it up and see if the voltage is up after no more than 24 hours on the charger. Measure the voltage fresh off the charger and then again a day later. It should still be up a tenth or two over 12 volts if it's a good one. If the voltage gets below about 11.6 at any point after charging then it's toast.
    I charged the battery for approx 24 hours and the initial reading right after I took of the charger was 13.25V. Now 9 hours later, the reading is 12.55V.

    Is this a sign of a bad battery since the voltage went so high after charging?

  15. #14
    this is my...boomstick! Array CrotchetyRocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    BC
    Bike
    click, click
    How many amps, man? Dropping voltage is a sure sign of a dead battery but, a good way to kill them is to over volt them as well.

    CR

  16. #15
    A.G.A.T.T. Array phantomgti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Surrey
    Bike
    FZ600
    Quote Originally Posted by CrotchetyRocket
    How many amps, man? Dropping voltage is a sure sign of a dead battery but, a good way to kill them is to over volt them as well.

    CR
    I don't understand the question about amps, CR. The rating on the battery is 12 Amp Hours @ 10hr.rate.

    The voltmeter I have has a 10 Amp limit and says not to test a circuit where there may be more that 10 present. Is the label on the outside of the battery an indication of the number of amps in the battery?

    Since I measured it this morning, it has been steady at about 12.35V.

    I did find that the block connector from the voltage regulator to the main wiring is corroded and part of the plastic has actually melted between the 2 connector. I'm not an expert, but I'm thinking it's not supposed to look like that.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •