I have a 04 Honda VFR. The manual indicates that you set throttle slack by adjusting the “pull” cable at either the throttle end or if need be for larger adjustments at the throttle body end. This works fine until you try and take out the last little bit of slack of the “pull” cable, at which time if you turn the handlebars fully to their locks the throttle will be sticky. The throttle action will still be smooth and unstuck throughout the rest handlebar’s movement however. Therefore I have to leave a little more slack in the twist grip than I might like. I guess you might say I am not a fan of throttle slack!

I have a Suzuki Burgamn AN 400 and it’s throttle cable adjustment protocol is a bit different. It indicates that you first maximize the amount of slack on the “push” cable at the twist grip, then minimize the amount a slack on the pull cable at the twist grip, then while holding the twist grip fully closed, you adjust the “push” cable’s slack adjusters until a bit of resistance is felt.

I cannot perform this Suzuki Method (insert joke for Suzuki violin and piano Lessons)
very easily on my VFR because access to the “push” cable adjusters is absent on the twist grip, and at the throttle body end is it stupidly buried behind the frame. However the “pull” adjustment is just barely accessible at the throttle body end and, of course the “pull” adjustment is easily available at the twist grip end.

I know you are supposed to leave a bit of slack on the “pull” cable of a twist grip, nevertheless on all the tow cable throttle systems on all the other bikes I have had, I have been able to remove all the slack in the “pull” cable without any ill effects such as throttle binding if the handle bars were turned to their locks.

I am pretty darn sure the VFR cables are not binding against any of the motorcycle’s internals, so I can’t see why I should not be able to take out all the slack out as I have on numerous other bikes with two cable systems. I also can’t see why it should start to bind only at the stop and only if I am trying to take out the last bit of slack on the “pull” cable.

Throughout this cable adjustment procedure on my VFR I am think the “push” cable slack has always been present so I hope the "push" cable is not affecting the action of the throttle when I try and remove the last bit of slack on the “pull “cable. Also there is no way to reroute the cables or provide them with a looser environ and as mentioned they do not look like they are binding or kinked etc. I was thinking of temporality removing the “push” cable and seeing if I could then remove all the slack on the “pull” cable without binding but as mentioned it’s a bitch to get at the throttle body end of the "push" cable.

If anyone can help suggest how to remove the last bit of slack, that would be great, and yup I am aware that this is not usual or recommended. Much thanks!