zx7r Float bowl mod
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 31

Thread: zx7r Float bowl mod

  1. #1
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125

    zx7r Float bowl mod

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/.../ventbowl.html
    http://www.jonesisland.com/7r/motor/index.html

    I'm thinking about junking the emissions shit. I've known about this for years but never bothered, now I feel like wtf -why not try this out on the track 7r? Just opening this up for discussion, CJLF and Borderline have you guys done anything with this stuff?
    Anybody else have an experience or thoughts to add?

    I see in the near future a carb tuning, or re-jetting of the carbs shortly anyways, and from what I've read it's almost a necessity if you want to get the carbs to be tuned properly.

    both our track bikes are down on power a bit and need some tuning, the run on the dyno showed a sharp drop in power at 10k rpms. whee.
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by Jaybo; 04-18-2006 at 11:28 PM.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  2. Remove Advertisements
    BCSportBikes.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Moderator TeeTee is on a distinguished road TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    You can easily pull the KLEEN stuff off with no problems. Either cap off the rubber elbows or make up some new covers from 1/4 inch aluminum. It's a nice easy shop evening to do so and makes it easier to lift out the valve cover. Cap off the spigots that the hoses to the KLEEN valve connected to.

    Some of those other hoses are not emmisions related but rather ram air related. Carbs need to vent to the atmosphere but with ram air added the pressure can mess things up so the carb vents are connected and run to a neutral point in the ram air ducting so it all stays in balance. These hoses you need to keep. This would be the fat hose to the right of the air injection valve body...... or maybe not..... What's that bit of casting at the top of the pic just below the frame hoop that the big hose connects to?
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  4. #3
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125
    KLEEN? I've never actually seen that before, i would guess they had something like this on your 9r Bruce? i think you had one..?

    so the carb vents are connected and run to a neutral point in the ram air ducting so it all stays in balance
    hmm. I would say none of this goes to a point in the air ducting. What that casting is a valve.. got to look it up in the manual put it's a vacummn valve that allows air to the float bowls. the valve is removed and a line run to the airbox, any other vacumn lines are plugged according to the links.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  5. #4
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125
    looks something like this.
    Attached Images  
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  6. #5
    The Wizard Focker is on a distinguished road Focker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    WOC
    Bike
    ZX6R street, SV 650 Race
    it's similar to the 6R, I pulled all that stuff off but there is a bigger hose that goes from the right side of the carbs up through to the ram air tube. Gotta keep that one
    WMRC #12
    WMRC Treasurer 2006 - 2008
    WMRC President 2008 - 2010

  7. #6
    ssblade
    Guest
    it's easy to rip that shit out. just remember that with ram air the bowls have to be vented to the airbox or to the front like they come stock.

  8. #7
    Moderator TeeTee is on a distinguished road TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Quote Originally Posted by ssblade
    it's easy to rip that shit out. just remember that with ram air the bowls have to be vented to the airbox or to the front like they come stock.
    That was what I was trying to get across before I got distracted by that bit of cast metal.

    KLEEN is an acronym for Kawasaki sumthin, sumthin, sumthin but it was air injection by any name.

    Not only found on the 9R but also on my new Z1000 as well.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  9. #8
    this is my...boomstick! CrotchetyRocket is on a distinguished road CrotchetyRocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    BC
    Bike
    click, click
    Main benefits to ditching the air injection are reduced engine noise, and improved access for maintenance. I yanked mine the second day I got my brand new bike home...and that was because I had to work the first day.

    CR

    PS. Remember to block off (with a bolt, mind) the port in one of the manifolds that powers the kleen system and the big hole in the airbox it leaves behind.

  10. #9
    Twin B VTR_Rider is on a distinguished road VTR_Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    127.0.0.1
    Bike
    Konker KPX 125
    If I were to do this mod, how does one tune a set of carb without a dyno? On a track bike. Doesn't tuning begin with the top end? I'm guessing it's go down a size on the mains, install, seat of pants feedback running from the PoPo...
    WMRC #20
    TwinBrosRacing.com
    Busting ours to kick yours

  11. #10
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125
    Around the block, scared of the police "dyno runs" .. yah, you got me... but if we are to get something close to stock power we've gotta start ripping into this shit.. This mod is pretty simple, straight forward and can be put back to stock if necessary.
    we should get more howl out of the engine with the intake silencer removed..
    Your bike has been monkeyed with more than mine i'd say, mine should be stock or close to so I'd say we start with it, find some settings that work then switch yours over.


    Question: Can you just buy jets? It's looking like going down on the mains is a good idea, can I just buy the jets or do I have to buy a full jet kit?
    Last edited by Jaybo; 04-19-2006 at 09:26 AM.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  12. #11
    Moderator TeeTee is on a distinguished road TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    FIrst off... removing the air injection won't give you more power or noticably alter how the bike runs other than perhaps a slight change in the smoothness of response to throttle alterations.

    Tuning carbs is a whole topic in itself. VTR's are at the top of the complexity chart as well. I've heard that the throats are SO large on that bike that the airbox must not be altered and even swapping to a K&N can have big problems come along with it.

    Mains is only one part of a carb tuning job. Both you guys should be able to find out what the hot setup in on your brand and model specific forums so I'd suggest checking that out first. If they say that there's a bunch of changes to do and that the kits come with them then I'd truly recomend the kits. After the main jets, which only affect the top and near top end, you need to alter how the needle provides fuel through the mid range. This comes from the different taper and from shimming the needle to put the proper parts of the taper where they need to be. Often there's also changes to the air damping circuit for the CV slides and possible slide spring mods or swaps that come with the kits.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  13. #12
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125
    thanks for your input Bruce, I'm well aware of what ditching the smog shit will do, I'm just interested in gettting rid of it, a)for a project b)as it's recommend through the internet c and most importantly) Apparently the smog gear makes 7r's really hard to jet. I'm not ditching the gear looking for power.. and yeah don't worry about the VTR thing, i'm speaking about our track 7r's (we both have one now)
    I'm only thinking about jets because of what the dyno run at mspeed showed..which is both bikes down on power by at least 10hp, and most importantly the fact that both bikes stop making power at 10k rpms. MAS mentioned that he thought that the mains appeared to be too big, as well my internet research has found that Kawi put basically too large of mains in stock. I appreciate your input, it makes sense to put a kit in but i'm going simple first.. baby steps perhaps.. why not at apparently $4.00 a jet?

    depending on what happens I may eventually put in a factory or dynojet kit.. but my goals here are not looking to make more power, but really a return to stock power and to make it so the power goes "all the way up.." instead of stopping at 10k
    Last edited by Jaybo; 04-19-2006 at 03:28 PM.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  14. #13
    Newbie Poser Squid bafflebrain is on a distinguished road bafflebrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    here and there
    Bike
    bad, m'kay?
    I have no experience with float bow mod. Mine is a 92 which does not have ram air. Removing emission stuff should not be a problem but it is not going to add any HP.

    As for the jet kit, I guess it is not a bad idea for your track bikes. I would not do it on a road bike because of drivability and idle speed fussiness (is that even a word). Highly recommeded on the list is a set of flatsides - guarrantee to add HP (Hakkeem has them on his ZX7). Mind you a used set is going over $500USD on Ebay. Better yet put a 94-97 ZX9 engine in it and you don't need to do any fancy engine mods for instant power gain
    "It's not my fault your slow!"

  15. #14
    Twin A Jaybo is on a distinguished road Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Po'Mo
    Bike
    Street:SV1000S Race:CBR600RR & DRZ125 Dirt:RM125
    ok..I'm not doing this for more power..lol.

    And Joe -No way am I going for flatsides. forget that.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    2014 WMRC Secretary

  16. #15
    Moderator TeeTee is on a distinguished road TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    Bike
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    Actually a nicely tuned jet kit that rids the bike of all it's woes is the ideal option for the street as well as the track.

    Best option if you don't mind the effort and cost is a dyno pull or two with a gas sniffer stuffed up the tailpipe and get the readout of the fuel air ratio. That'll soo tell you if it's rich or not and by how much.

    A quick "seat of the pants" test ride trick is to get it up near redline and full throttle in second and then SLOWLY roll off the throttle. If it's lean it'll feel like it picks up a touch of power or at least does not loose power right away. If it's rich it'll feel stuttery and boggy and not add power as you roll the throttle through the last few degrees of travel and as the revs climb.

    But these are pretty much radical problems and generally it can be close and you won't feel anything but the dyno sure will.

    If you guys have added aftermarket cans or full systems then the fat mains may be just right now. Or go down a couple of sizes and see if it acts lean as per above.

    Being down here right near seal level I've found on my old 9R, the DR350 and the Husky motards that we need a size or two bigger anyway than what is "normally" suggested. Remember that most of North America lives at around 600 to 800 feet ASL and that makes a difference.
    Last edited by TeeTee; 04-19-2006 at 04:52 PM.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts