Replacement of the front pads
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Thread: Replacement of the front pads

  1. #1 Array Stewy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Maple Ridge
    2007 GSX-R750

    Replacement of the front pads

    Hey guys, I am going to be replacing the front pads on my bike in the coming month or so. Is there anything specific to watch out for? I've done the brakes on cars for years, but bikes tend to be different in many areas. Secondly, which pads can you recommend? The ones in there right now are just OE Suzuki.
    "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STD’s… You know you want to hit it, but you’re afraid of the consequences"

    2007 Suzuki GSX-R 750
    2014 BMW X5 xDrive 35d M Sport
    2007 Audi A4 S-Line

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  3. #2
    I believe that EBC is the popular choice for brake pads

  4. #3
    100% Asshole Array SpookyjacK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    search, search, search, manual, manual, manual...........lots of info here.

  5. #4
    :) you'll live longer Array rockshoxbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Suzuki pads best for all round. Feels like a bit less stopping power when repeated braking on a track day. Consistent response for entire life of pad.

    I had EBC’s HH and they were great in the dry and still worked great when it got really hot. Awesome as new pads, but after about 8K km, it started to be mediocre. In the wet, it was slippery and surprising how much crappier (relative to stock ones) they were, but not useless.

    I rode street daily, rain/ shine and did track days.

    That’s my take on it.

  6. #5
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    No big deal changing them.

    BUt while you're in there I suggest a good hosing down with brake cleaner or a soapy water and toothbrush scrub to clean out the innards around the pistons.

    And after it's dry carefully pump out the pistons about 6 or 7 mm's and push them back in carefully a couple of times. You'll have to hold back the "eager" pistons to let the slow ones catch up. Do one side only at a time while the other caliper is left on the mount to avoid any accidents where you push out a piston totally.

    This gives the seal to piston contact points a chance to see some new fluid and may expose a bit of grunge on the piston skirts that can be cleaned off at the same time.

    It's also a good way to evaluate if the pistons are moving easily enough. If they are very hard to push back then you know that the system is getting close to needing a rebuild for best performance. If the edges of the cup of the pistons leaves a mark in your fingers from pushing them back in then they are at the point where they are too tight or darn close to it.

    I just went through this with my track bike. 4 seasons had aged and heat hardened the seals to the point where I could not push them back in with just hand power without hurting my fingers too much. New seals and it's a easy slip-slip.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

  7. #6
    Twin A Array Jaybo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Street:SV1000S Race:Ninja 250R, CBR600 F3, DRZ125
    changing pads is easy, if you're not sure what you're doing look in the shop manual.

    it should be mentioned that the pads will need to be seated after installing them. MAKE SURE to pump the brake lever a few times and get the pads into position! then they will take a little use to get up to proper effectiveness. I usually go around the block dragging them down the hill a bit, then some relatively hard stops.. that usually gets them good and done.
    Some people are like Slinkies ...
    Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

    TwinBrosRacing <-click
    WMRC & PCMRC #19
    WMRC President

  8. #7
    Moderator Array Harps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    A couple of Suzukis
    Craig, get a shop manual anyway (if you haven't already). But changing pads is easy, it'll take you like 10 mins.

    But on to more important things...
    Steve (rockshox) has it right, and I found the same thing. The EBC HH+ race pads were better to begin with, but as time went on I found the same things he said. If you get 'race' pads, just make sure you break them in properly to start with....I don't really know what difference it makes if you don't break them in properly, but better safe than sorry.
    Maybe Mediocre
    BCSB - I hate you

  9. #8
    damn broken leg!!!!!!! Array gixxer_76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    2007 KX250 Ripper!!!!
    Not all HH pads are the "race" pads. The ones with the bright green sticker thats says "kit pads" are the real race pads. You don't need or want these for the street. You are riding on the street, buy street compound pads. I used stock Kawi pads and loved them even on the track. That is all I would use for racing in the rain. Do you want to change your brake pads every time it rains or do you want to just change them and forget them?
    Just like a twig, your leg will snap if you smash it into a wall with a 400 Lb bike @ 100+ Km/h. So just don't do it!

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