storing a bike for a year
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Thread: storing a bike for a year

  1. #1
    Registered User Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    N. Van (victoria untill may)
    94 Kawasaki ZX-7

    storing a bike for a year

    ive alwasy ridden my bikes through the winter, baring those 4 days of snow that we get every year, but im going abroad and need to know what to do to properly store it. im keeping it in a garage thats sorta heated, but is atleast sealed off from the outside, what i was wondering about was fuel stabilizers and what to do about all the other fluids.

    any help would be appreciated

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  3. #2
    Registered User Array rg500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Port Coquitlam
    my recommendations (anyone else feel free to jump in)...
    Top off the tank, add fuel stabilizers.
    drain the carbs.
    change the engine oil.
    if possible, get both wheels off the ground.
    remove the air filter, and plug the air intake with an oily rag.
    plug exhaust(s) with another oily rag (WD-40 will work fine).
    wd-40 all metal parts, engine, forks, etc.
    remove battery.
    use a bike cover.


  4. #3
    Decrease the tire pressures,
    Put a few drop of oil in the cylinders with the spark plugs removed and blip the starter. This will coat the cylinder walls.
    Last edited by zx10rpilot; 08-26-2006 at 11:38 AM.

  5. #4
    Fuelled by rice Array racerboy88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    lower mainland
    Tee Tee knows a lot about this stuff.
    You could always ask a dealer like Manny at BK.
    02 R1- stolen Nov 24/02

    Hang Thieves

  6. #5
    license to chill Array frontside5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    R6, F4 stunter

  7. #6
    Moderator Array TeeTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Out to pasture in the 'Wack
    04 Kawi Z1000,
    All excellent points.

    Oil in the cylinders or the special fogging oil. Either is fine for a year. As mentioned full tank plus stabilizer. If it's a carb bike then drain the float bowls. If fuel injected then run it long enough that the fuel stabilized gas is fully through the injectors. Probably a km or so or 4 to 5 mintues of idling. Most will likely not take that long but it can't hurt.

    Other than that the only thing is your tires. IF they are a couple of seasons old already then plan on new rubber when you get back. In that case stands are optional since you don't care about an issues. But a rear stand is still a good idea since the tires could go flat and allow the angle on the side stand to to vertical and beyond and drop the bike. No rear race stand? Then be sure the bike is kept near a wall with some thick soft padding just in case it feels the need to lean the other way for a change..

    You can protect the exhaust system from some moisture with a baggie over the end. The intake system is often already protected by the oil element air filter. If not then an slightly oily rag stuffed into the air intake isn't a bad idea. If nothing else it may keep the mice out of the airbox (yes, seriously).

    Outside of these extras the tips already given sound good as well as the brief glance I had of the linked site.
    A backyard mechanic without a service manual is just like a hooker without a lamp pole.... they are both in the dark.

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