anyone recommend a shop?
anyone recommend a shop?
hahaha i know thats what i was thinking myself but i just dont want to eff anything up
What is the problem? Dirtbike carbs are very easy. At BCIT my moto was "I hate carbs!" but dirtbike carbs are simple. A tiny bit of thought can usually sort out any jetting problem.
Just like a twig, your leg will snap if you smash it into a wall with a 400 Lb bike @ 100+ Km/h. So just don't do it!
don't know anything about dialing them in perfectly and but i rejetted my Husqi carb no problem. just pull it out and give it a try. you won't screw it up. worst case scenario, you have to take it apart again to adjust.... i think?
i really don't know anything about tuning bikes, but that just goes to show how easy it is!!
one six two seven eight nine
It's not rocket science, but as a counterpoint to sliver, you can indeed blow up a 2/ dirtbike with improper jetting...
here is a good article http://www.transworldmotocross.com/m...018579,00.html and a long winded article I posted on another site.
A tip I found works great for pilot/fuel screw is to get the bike warmed up. (always work with engine at full running temp) turn you idle low. and start to turn in the fuel screw leaning it out. If it hickups out and stalls or cannot take any throttle blips without stalling you are too lean. Turn the screw out some more to richen the setting. You should be able to grab a handful without it stalling. If it stalls when you wack it, your too lean. This is the engine telling you something.
If your bike runs best with fuel screw less than one turn out, you should try a smaller pilot jet. If you have the fuel screw more than two turns out you should go to a larger pilot. Ideal is around one and a half turns out.
If you have no problem starting the bike cold without choke, you are probably too rich. If too rich you will have a hell of a time starting it hot. If too lean you can have a hard time getting a cold bike started with choke and have a hard time keeping it running. This is all in relation to pilot and fuel screw.
To check your needle you need to play in mid throttle range. If too rich you will feel the bike bog out as there is too much fuel and it puts the flame out. If too lean it will feel hesitant. Always go richer first to be sure.
Same thing applies to the main jet but at 3/4 - full throttle.
I always adjusted Pilot, Main then Needle as it feeds fuel through the main jet.
I put one mark on the throttle grip and four marks on the throttle housing indicating 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full. (Liquid paper works great and will stay on for a long time.) On a good road get the bike up into fourth and see how it feels when you play in each range. Pilot=0-1/4 (The needle taper does not usually start before 1/4 throttle.) Needle= 1/4-3/4 This is why it is the one that is most often tweaked as this is where most riding occurs. The main is 3/4-full throttle (the needle is lifted right out at this point) working in a higher gear gives you better "Feel" and marking the throttle lets you better see where the problems occur.
If you want to feel the difference going rich will have, load up your air filter with oil so it has a hard time breathing. You will see what bogging feels like. If your bike is super clean and you have a spotless air box and a good paved section to play on. Pull your filter and you will see what lean is like but be careful here or you can blow your motor if too lean or you get s*** in there.
If looking at a power curve in relation to lean vs rich. the curve climbs quickly from the lean side as you go richer. Once peak power is reached, it falls off slowly as you go richer so there is a bigger working range on the rich side than on the lean side. That is why it is good to start rich and step down slowly using the seat of the pants will tell you alot. if you know how to listen to your motor you can get the jetting pretty dialed.
Weather plays a role but more so on two strokes. Hot summer days with low humidity will be poor air. That is you may have to lean it out a bit as the air density will be low. Same thing applies for higher elevations. On a cold day with low humidity will be good air. Good air density and may need to be richened a bit. Same as riding at low elevations. As humidity goes up, the air density effectively lowers as water is taking up more molecular space so for a given temperature and atmosphjeric pressure humidity plays a bit of a role.
Keep this in mind as you tune your bike at this time of year you will probably have a good air condition compared to a hot mid summer day and riding high in the alpine. If you are putting a aftermarket pipe, new header or opening up your air box, you will affect how the engine breaths and will need to re-jet accordingly.
thanks for the info/tips.
my bike was having a problem where the float was stuck and over fueling constantly making it almost near impossible to start and constantly was getting on my nerves so i took the carb out completely and am stripping it down to clean/rejet it. will update later with pics and info
^^i found many of those things to be true also. when i first got the bike i cleaned the air filter and oiled it. that in combination with the bike already being lean on the pilot and the bike was stalling when i gave throttle off of idle or low speed. after going over the carb and turning the pilot from 1 1/4 turns to 2 turns and soaking the filter in soap and then putting it back in no stalls and the bike runs great in all areas of the power.
as you said seat of the pants time is most important. when i learned to listen to my bike and learn it's sounds while riding, i was able to tune my bike by ear
and feel after putting the carb back in. now the bike come's off idle great and fires up first ( ok maybe second or third sometimes, it is an XR kick.
to the OP i say give it a try yourself first. get a manual and it's not too bad a job for the DIY'r
feels good eh?! nice work. and the correction to my post just goes to show i really am clueless! but it's admirable to try anyhow.
one six two seven eight nine
it got in from the air filter. after i stripped the rear parts i found sand buildups in the airbox not to much but noticabley enough. then i opened up the carb and found tiny grains of sand i thought ohhh noooo its in the engine now to si i was getting ready to do a LITTLE bit more work but i put eveyrthing back together and it starts first kick everytime and after adjusting the carb with said instructions from the manual it runs more smooth then when i got it everything sounds a-ok! oh yah also changed the oils yesterday and filter... which brings me to another question are any of you guys using those stainless steel filters?