license to chill
Radar Screamer install
I spent my Saturday afternoon on this. Wanted to be able to test it during Sunday's Harrison ride. 4.5 hours total. Slow but successful. Pretty damn proud of myself actually since Iím far better at menial bodywork than wiring.
I thought Iíd post this up for anyone else considering installing a screamer and detector. If I can do it a monkey can do it. I wish Iíd taken pics from the very start, but only thought of it later. Mine aren't cropped properly but I don't care. This is all for an 03 R6 but the only difference between bikes is where you find your power source. If you don't know how to find a good source using a multimeter then you'll need a shop manual with wiring diagrams to figure that out.
Initial steps: Install detector mount platform, remove seat, prop up the tank (I didnít even bother removing it but doing that gives you a lot more room), disconnect ground from the battery, and lay out all the components in the general area of where you want them to go. Mount on/off switch for beeper volume. I didnít take a pic of it but I secured it to the bolt holding the clutch lever to the bar. They give you a little mounting bracket.
Mirror mount: zip-tied the dark grey detector power and light grey audio out wires to the mount, stabilizing that end of the wiring.
Wiring to harness: circled the stemís cables inside the fork, securing the power cord to the brake and throttle cables, stabilizing that end of the wiring. Make sure they have enough slack. Since my mountís on the left, this was with the bars turned full right. The beeper's actually stuck on the inside of the headlight plastic, hidden, just to the left of where the arrow's pointing. For the on/off volume switch I piggy-backed on some existing wiring (heated grips) running down the fork. The control box is below the bottom edge of this pic.
Control box & harness: actually 2 little boxes in line, with three connectors coming out of it. The beeperís plugged into one. A mess of a design. The good news it that unless you have a total naked bike this all gets hidden under a side fairing/air-intake cover anyways. You can see part of mine (grey cable sitting on top of it) in the next pic.
Cable routing: Kept them tight to the inside so they wouldnít be touching the frame, which can get warm at times. Of the three, oneís a bit slack in this pic (flat black phone-cord style power for the detector) but I tightened it after. I wouldn't worry about this too much. If you're concerned, you can always use some insulating tubing in this area.
Power: The brake light power cable usually has a lot of capacity and uses very little, plus itís switchable (off when the ignition key is in ďoffĒ position). If you donít use a switchable source then your device sucks juice even when the bike is just sitting there; kind of like leaving your headlights on 24/7. Like I said before, either use a multimeter and do some testing, or use a shop manual with wiring diagrams to figure this one out.
I spliced it three times, once for the speedohealer, again for the detector (with a 3M connector), then again for the screamer. This is where your wire-stripping and soldering skills come in. Iím not particularly good at either.
If youíre meticulous like me you can even label everything to make troubleshooting or future installs easier.
Ground: the detector direct line power cord has a loop on one end. I soldered the screamerís ground to it and just screwed both onto the batteryís negative instead of finding another ground screw. You usually hook this up to the frame somewhere but I hate messing around with painted screws and stuff so I just said, screw it, use the battery.
Wire jumble: zip tied everything as best as possible (too much wire everywhere) and the bundle just gets tucked in after. I hope you like using zip ties Ė I went through about 25 or more. If you donít care so much about a mess of wires then youíll probably use half that.
End: a clean display panel and triple crown with almost no wires in sight, beeper well hidden, and a mirror-mounted holder so all controls are completely visible. By the way, that's Imperial's address on the keychain. (Even my own stupidity has limits.)
If this gets me out of just one ticket, Iíve earned it.
nice install..was wondering if u can tell me what mode and settings u use on ur x50? I have the same one and i dunt noe how to use its...I got a ticket the first day i started to use it.
Posing with conviction
You just plug it in and make sure the volume is up. If you don't have a screamer though you probably won't hear it, if the LEO is using a trigger activated radar or laser you really don't have a chance regardless.
Originally Posted by dey-bid
Part of effectively using a radar detector is knowing when there is a high probability of them being effective. Ripping down say the Upper Levels when there is a speed trap is probably going to net you a ticket, radar detector or not, cuz they will be gunning you and unless you get stray radar or laser from a previous gunning you are hooped.
license to chill
Yup. You definitely have to take the time to read the manual thoroughly and learn about the different bandwidths. The factory settings are good to go - you can leave it on "Auto" all the time if you want. What really matters is interpreting the feedback.
Originally Posted by heisenberg
Your two-minute lesson:
- weak X in the city = garage door
- weak one off K or Ka = monitor for increase, you have time. In the city it might mean a car w/ rolling radar way down a cross street you passed.
- intermittent K or Ka growing stronger = you're coming up to an instant-on POP trap.
- a tiny amount of laser = hit the brakes asap, he's almost got you.