Getting it in requires all the hubbub, but adjusting is not so drastic.
Just lift the tank up and prop it up with a 2by 4 with 2 nails in it. The nail goes through the front gask tank bolt holes and the bolt holes where the tank mounts to the frame. I have placed a tall saw horse next to the right side of the propped tank to make sure it does not fall over. Keep all gas lines etc. connected. You will need to RUN the bike with the tank up.
Once up, disconnect the airbox sensor above the CCTL bolt. It gets in the way. The airbox, thank God, stays where it is. That is a PITA to remove.
I have heard that if you get a cheap 16mm open ended wrench and saw off the end to make a stubby, that makes it easier to turn the bolt. As it is now, Honda has made it near impossible to get at this thing. If you have a stubby and a 16mm closed wrench(multistar not hex) this works.
Before adjusting, start the bike(the FI light will come on because of the airbox sensor disconnection) and rev at 3000-4000 rpms and listen for the evil rattle. BB's in a can. At 7-8000 as well. It's hard to hear this at 8000 though. Frankly, 4000 rpms is where you are really going to hear it because the timing chain is running but not under a lot of load. The bad CCTL's really rattle at 3-4k but under engine braking when the slack is the most.
Make sure when you adjust to turn the CCTL while the bike is running at 3-4k. At the point where the rattle starts to dissipate stop turning and shut the bike off.
Turn 1/4 to 1/2 turn more and STOP tightening! That's all you need to stop the chain slop. Anymore put the chain rail on the chain constantly and it shreds and clogs the oil filter. That in turn horks the engine-bad! Too tight also strains the timing chain and it goes kablowee. It's obvious if its too tight because you hear nothing or a turbo whine. Wooooooooooo!
Tunr the bike on agian and rev at 4k and 7k. If it sounds OK, button 'er up. Good luck-this is tricky and timeconsuming