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Discussion Starter #1
I owned a 2012 Ninja 1000 for 5 seasons, switched to a 2014 ZX-14R for one season, then switched back to a 2017 Ninja 1000. I had my 2012 flashed by Ivan's in NY and added a bunch of go-fast bits such as an Arrow header and Akro cans, block off plates, and a host of other tasty bits.

I wanted to do the same with the 2017, but Kawasaki started encrypting the ECU's so no tunes were available. Working with 2WheelDynoWorks in Kirkland, WA........they sent my ECU to Woolich to get hacked (literally) by cutting open the ECU, and reading the data directly off the chipset. They sent the ECU back to 2WheelDynoWorks, who then put a base line map in it, and sent it back to me. I rode the bike back down to them and up on the Dyno it went.

All of this cost me $0, as Woolich comp'd me for the Dyno time, as this allowed them to sell the flash to other owners. Win Win!

While dyno graphs are nice to look at, most people just look at peak HP and TQ numbers, which have very little real world riding relevance except for bragging rights. I converted all the results in to a table, as I feel its more interesting, and telling about the improvements

Torque results:



Horsepower results:

 

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track hack
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Thanks for posting - love looking at info like this!

Nels did the exact same thing for my 2014 FZ09, then subsequently as well for the V2 and V3 maps improvements and it worked out well as Barry at KFG/GP Suspension used the forks and shock to build their fork piston kits and shock revalve options.

Both are magicians in their areas of expertise and Nels is one of the nicest people on the planet - such a good dude who helped me at so many race weekends I couldn't possible pay him back.

100% agree with your comment regarding peak numbers not being the most important info as well - Nels changes the entire character of how a bike behaves - engine braking, cut times on the QS, and throttle matching (R6's are apparently the worst - you give it 100% throttle, the ECU says "Nah, lets try 80% for a while shall we..") plus other stuff.

80 and 140 - those are pretty impressive numbers for a sport touring bike thats not overly heavy like say a Connie 14 or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
....and on another forum I am currently involved in a debate from another Ninja 1000 owner who claims my numbers in the chart I created are all "fabricated". Meanwhile, he has his own thread abut changing the velocity stacks to different lengths to improve his 1/4 mile times and trap speeds. Have a read.....especially the part after I make a reference to "Shervin" after seeing the massive holes he has cut in to his airbox,

https://www.kawasakininja1000.com/forum/ninja-1000-general-discussion/22474-ultimate-4th-gen-ninja-1000-guide-go-fast.html
 

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Uhhhh wow. That guy talks a lot of smack up about .....well everything. But to talk up his cornering abilities/prowess and post a pic of his rear tire looking like that? *Am I missing something? *1st bike and he's not worried about getting out cornered by SS's on a track?

And so have you been logging your 1/4 mile times? Lol.*

The internets! *Taking all comers.*
 

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Not to totally derail, but why did you turf the 14R so fast? *I’m kinda poking around at both the 1k and the 14r right now.
I'll pipe in as CDG and I pretty much flipped the same bike in the same timeframe. For me, it was the riding position; the seat:peg position was akin to sitting in a chair, whereas the bar height was long and low-ish, like a more upright sport bike. Very very strange, and even with adjustable peg blocks, I couldn't get super comfortable. With that in mind, I threw on a big bar kit and it made the riding position more tolerable, however once it was on, the front felt distant and long. Keep in mind that I'm slight of stature, and so if you're a larger dude, your experiences may differ. This however did not detract from its handling, and it was capable at shredding some NorCal routes, albeit with a bit more work through the tighter stuff due to the weight.

The 14R is awesome, however it wasn't the best fit for me. It did everything well, and outside of the feeling of long-ness, it would've been an amazing forever SPORT touring bike. It has everything that you would want: big payload and room, stable chassis, all the relevant info you would need (fuel, temp, range, etc...), smooth and torquey motor, centre stand, and incredible brakes. The problem was that it wasn't fun... fast yes, but not fun. It had so much grunt that you rarely dipped out of 1/4 throttle for most riding, and when you did, it was mental and well beyond reasonable pace. When you did though, it would hook up and shoot you to the next corner apex; you would just have to seriously readjust your perceptions. If I were in a different place and had a lot of time to travel and tour across NA, I would've kept it. But with limited time, I wanted to use more of the bike, more of the time, and so it had to go. Oh, and the 14R is, IMHO, much faster than the pre-2014 14's; felt like much more of an exponential power curve, more surging in the mid-range.

Prior to the 14r, I also had a flashed and tuned Ninja 1k that I put 50k on. Shorter wheelbase and quicker handling, better ergos, lighter, more vibey as compared to the 14r (but most everything is compared to that buttery smoothness). The gearing is perfect on the N1k for street riding, it'll happily lug or scream like a sportbike depending on your mood. No way as quick as a new generation litre bike, but much more usable and accessible torque curve.

So it depends on what you want to do, let me know if you have other questions or thoughts.
 

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Thanks man. *Ya the 14 ergos are weird. *I feel more “upright” on a zx6r or r1 than on the 14 just due to the bars being so much closer. *Can’t stand the feet-up-my-own-ass peg position of a super sport though. *Zx14 peg to seat setup feels perfect for me. *
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TMR pretty much nailed it, there is no better motor than what the 14r has IMHO. But, for me, the #1 negative was the peg location. I wanted them like 6" further back (don't laugh). I even went as far as looking at what drag racers used for rearsets......no solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wouldn't say there has been any significant change in mileage. An interesting byproduct of the flash is that I can now change the traction control and power modes on the fly versus having to be at a full stop
 

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What's the point of changing power modes, or even the option for power modes at all outside of a marketing bullshit? Unless you're taking your bike off-road and want to temper down the throttle snatchiness, I see very little need to change or even consider modes. Ditto with TC levels and sensitivity on the street....

Discuss.
 

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What's the point of changing power modes, or even the option for power modes at all outside of a marketing bullshit? Unless you're taking your bike off-road and want to temper down the throttle snatchiness, I see very little need to change or even consider modes. Ditto with TC levels and sensitivity on the street....

Discuss.
Well, I’d say working, sophisticated TC makes power modes mostly redundant.
By sophisticated, I mean TC that has near seamless intervention.
TC levels on the street? Might be fun. *Always wanted to wheelie sideways in 5th.
 
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