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Gear Driven Cams
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Discussion Starter #1
We're replacing the chain on the EX500, and need a tool to stake the master link on the new chain. Near as I can tell, the same tool is used for breaking the old chain and staking the new one... Does anyone have one they would lend for an afternoon?

We have the old chain and sprockets removed, so we're ready for installation once we get the tool and the master link. It's an EK520 chain, if that matters.

If you don't have one to lend (or would prefer not to lend yours...) can you recommend a good place to buy one, and/or a good one to buy? There seems to be a number of different types available online, it's really not clear what would be best.
 

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Ridin hard n dirty
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Seen them at Princess Auto for $20.00 or less....I don't use them myself...I just grind off the pins of the link i want to remove and drive them out with a pin punch...then put the chain together and squeeze the new plate on with some vice grips then peen the new pins with a hammer just like they did from new...good luck....you can practice on the scrap pieces that you cut off.
 

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They are not the same tool unless there's a combo unit out there someplace.

Dremel or angle grinder to remove as per above. Make sure the sparks spray away from the bike. Then either the tool to stake on or you can use a ball peen hammer to rivet the end over as suggested by Sushi. Note about peening of any sort. Lots of smaller whacks instead of a few big ones. Big ones can bend the pin. Lots of little ones will nicely mushroom the end over. The taps should be only just a little harder than what you would be willing to hit your own hand with. Push the link into place and run a strong zip tie or wire around it and bind tight. Back up the other side of the pins with a second hammer head or big MF'n lump of steel to take the energy out of the whacks. Then tap tap tap tap tap......... tap tap tap tap.......... tap tap tap tap.... tap the unformed end until you see it nicelly mushroomed over. A center punch or cold chisel can also be used to help get the metal moving at first. Chisel an X and then use the ball peen end to rivet it out a little more. Cut away the wire or zip tie and yer done.
 

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What Bruce said. I used a sledgehammer to stake the backside of the chain in place while I peen the rivet down. It's something everyone has in their garage (or should have :evilgrin ) and it's got enough mass to hold things in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had no idea that I could stake the end of the master link with a ball-peen hammer... That's worth trying. Does it matter that this is an O-ring chain?

How are you doing this when the chain is on the bike? I had a hard enough time trying to get the Dremel oriented so the sparks would fly away from the bike. Maybe two people, one holding the bucking bar on the far side of the chain, and one hammering the rivet?

Hmm... Now i'm wondering if my rivet gun would be good for doing this... I've got a mushroom set for it. It may hit too hard though, it's designed for driving rivets on aircraft (but they're aluminum...). I suppose I could tease the trigger for some light hits instead of giving it full strength...

TeeTee said:
They are not the same tool unless there's a combo unit out there someplace.
Interesting... That's all I found was combo units. The anvil had a flat head and a pointed head, the flat head was for driving out the pins, and the pointed head was for staking the new ones. Drive the point into the center of the pin, and it spreads the head out and wedges it into the hole.
 

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Yes...as above.

If you buy a chain breaker...either they're cheap and they don't work (on anything more than a bicycle chain), or they're expensive and they still don't work very well.

Some sort of a grinding tool and a pair of vice grips will do the job. :thumbup
 

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Two people for the hammer option is pretty much a must.... or at least makes it a LOT easier. O ring chain or not, it works either way. BUt with the O ring chain it's just a bit more important to ensure the links are firmly clamped and bound so the bouncing of the hammer peening the end doesn't rattle the plates apart and leave a bigger gap than it's supposed to leave.

Staking is a slightly different operation than peening by rights. Staking is more related to splitting the metal to bind it while riveting or peening is mashing the metal to spread out through compression. For example if you use a straight blade cold chisel to start the operation by forming an X across the pin face then that's technically staking. Then the followup mushrooming operation with the ball peen hammer is... well.. peening. Hence the name of the hammer... :D You can buy ball peen hammers as well as cross peen hammers.

If this is your first time doing something like this then practice staking and peening on a cut off 2 to 3 inch nail. Drive the nail through a bit of wood and then cut off and file square the point. Now start tapping the end of the nail with the ball peen end of the hammer and work at mushrooming over the end so it's larger than it started for about 1 mm down from the end but the nail is still straight. If you find yourself beding the nail then you're hitting it too hard. Lots of light taps is better than a few hard hits. If you can't seem to avoid bending the nail then your hammer is too big.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advice, Bruce. I do know the difference between staking and peening, at least if I don't then the Association for Professional Engineers may want to talk to me about whether I really deserve my P.Eng...

I'll give a try with a nail and see what happens.
 

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Ridin hard n dirty
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when I stake the chain when it is on the bike i put the chain over the rear sprocket at around the 2:00 -3:00 position then i back up the pin with a long bar bout 12-17" long... about 1" dia....then proceed to hit the pin head...you don't need to go over board with hitting it....just enough to keep the plate in place....you being a p.eng. i will try to complicate the process for you...measure the pin and the hole in the plate assemble the plate over the pins then peen the end until the head swells .005-.010 larger than when you started...if all else fails take it to a bike shop where the kid is getting paid $8.00 per hour and explain your problem to him then watch him do it so you know for the next time....ha ha ha....
 
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