BC Sport Bikes Forum banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, well I am slowly working on my bike now, getting it ready for April an April 7th start date.


I changed my sparkplugs today, uneventfully. and had my air fileter cleaned at BK a few weeks before.


Plan on changing my oil and filter 2 weeks from today but next week I plan on sitting down and taking a toothbrush (new one) and cleaning the chain throughly.


Anyone give advice as to whether I can use WD40 to clean the chain then apply lube after cleaning and drying it off ? I won't be taking the chain off the bike, got the rear stand will just sit down and scrub like nuts....
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,114 Posts
I used WD40 every now and then, I have to really, damn salt likes to eat the chain up.... I just apply it to the rust spots I get, then I'll scrub them off, then I apply the chain lube afterwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
WARNING Do NOT use WD-40 it has water in i and will eat your chain from the inside out!
Diesel or lamp oil is best.......and use an old tooth brush(softer) and treat yourself to the new one. BF
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
PH-Q2 said:
WARNING Do NOT use WD-40 it has water in i and will eat your chain from the inside out!
Diesel or lamp oil is best.......and use an old tooth brush(softer) and treat yourself to the new one. BF

lol, thanks for the toothbrush advice, will do so. Now when you say lamp oil ? you mean "Kerosine" ? where would I get such a small amount ? or Diesel ?

So PH-Q2 I should clean it with diesel, go light with the scrubbing, and then lube it after ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
PH-Q2 said:
WARNING Do NOT use WD-40 it has water in i and will eat your chain from the inside out!
Diesel or lamp oil is best.......and use an old tooth brush(softer) and treat yourself to the new one. BF
I've accused WD-40 of many shortcomings in the past but never about it having a water content. You sure about that?

Anyway Farhad. You've got the right procedure all right. Get it up on the stand and scrub it down with a brush and some sort of solvent. Use paper toweling a couple of times to wick away the dirty stuff.

The only addition I'd suggest is to do what I did and make up a cardboard or corrugated plastic (best long term, it won't disitegrate) board that fits up between the chain and wheel and goes all the way to the ground. This will keep the splashes off the wheel and tire. Mine looks like a big rectangle with a cookie bite out of the upper edge near one corner to fit around the wheel hub between the sproket and the spokes. If you can't figure out what I mean I'll pull it out and take some pics.

As for the cleaning solvent I've used low odor paint thinner (regular oil base paint thinner, DON"T USE LACQUER THINNER OR OTHER HIGH VOLITILE THINNERS), WD-40 and if I'm feeling really cocky I'll use the paint thinner with some heavy oil mixed in just so it has some lubricity for the O rings while cleaning. And also any solvent that gets into the O ring seats at least will leave some heavy oil when it dries.

If your thinking ahead you can even collect the solvent in a shallow tray and pour it back into a jar. It'll settle over the next week and you can use the clear tea colored top layer again for next time. Just decant it off into a clean bowl for application. I've been using the same jar of "settlin's" for over a year on both the MC's and my bicycles. When the bottom sludge gets really thick I decant the top clear stuff into another jar and toss the dirty stuff.

And a big HURRAH for doin' the sparkplugs without incident. We'll make a mechanic outta'ya even if we gotta drag ya kickin' n' screamn' :flip :D

PS: PH-Q2, if ya REALLY cared about yer bike you'd SHARE that new toothbrush with it. A few grease stains on yer teeth just shows you care :D :laughing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
the beauty with diesel is ,it has a shit load of oil in it ,and is able to clean the chain without drying the oil in the chain out?

any other way will dilute the oil already in the O ring part of the chain and leave residue of whatever solvent you have cleaned it with inside the O ring part of the chain,so do yourself a favor and just use diesel
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
PH-Q2 said:
the beauty with diesel is ,it has a shit load of oil in it ,and is able to clean the chain without drying the oil in the chain out?

any other way will dilute the oil already in the O ring part of the chain and leave residue of whatever solvent you have cleaned it with inside the O ring part of the chain,so do yourself a favor and just use diesel
AFAIK there is actually grease inside the chain links. I agree that the heavier and oily deisel can be used very succesfully for cleaning but I suspect the biggest advantage of using diesel fuel would be that being thicker it is less likely to get past the O-rings in the first place. And if it did it's not much better than paint thinner or WD-40 for lubricating under the load the chain needs to support. And then there is the all permeating smell that gets into everything. It might be good for the chain but diesel just stinks too much for me.......

One reason that I like to use the grease based lubes with a solvent carrier is that I'm hoping that some of the thin mix can get past the rings and then the solvent will dry out and leave a decent addition of new grease to the factory stuff in there.

But in the end I suspect that we may all just be blowing smoke. I've seen lots of guys over at SBN and the rec.motorcycles.sportbikes newsgroup that claim to never use anything but WD-40 and they say they get 25,000 miles out of a chain. They never clean the chain. Just spray on some new WD and a quick wipe with a towel and they're off. The only thing is that they DO admit to needing to do it more often. Like almost every ride. Especially if they run into rain then they need to do it as soon as they get home or park for the day. I for one will keep using the PJ1 or Silkolene.
 

·
Just Another Enthusiast
Joined
·
2,051 Posts
I hear so many different things about chain maintenance, it seems everyone has a contradicting opinion to the next person.

I use WD to clean the chain, then use PJ1 to lube it. I have not encountered any problems. I also heard that using a toothbrush can damage the rubber o rings, and should not be used. I have no idea if that is true, but I prefer to use a little elbow grease instead of a brush. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
I like the toothbrush or similar because it loosens up the grit down in the gaps between the plates. Nothing else will do the job. But I agree that it should be done with a soft brush used gently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
ok...so I am going to brush softly with lots of lube....:eek :eek what the heck are we talking about ? :laughing :laughing
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
here's my routine, and I do it usually every 500 - 600km's.

(btw, don't be worried about drying out the lube inside the chain, worry about drying out the o-ring itself. paint thinner will dry out rubber nicely, so IMO I would stay clear of that.)

I use either WD40 or kerosene. (kerosene can be found in the camping section of canadian tire) I usually use WD40 because I have it around anyways for cleaning the road crap and flung (is that a word?) chain lube that gets on the wheels.

I have a box-o-rags that I got at home depot that I use for this sort of thing. spray one section of the chain, scrub it a little with an old toothbrush, wipe off with a rag, then spray some more wd40 on, and wipe a final time.

When the chain is all nice and clean, go for a quick ride around the block to warm up the chain. a warm chain alows the lube to set into it a little better. spray on your lube and leave it for at least an hour. I do this at night so that in the morning it has had plenty of time to sit. the reason is that chain lube comes out of the can as a thin liquid, which allows it to absorb into the small gaps in a chain. it then coagulates into a viscous greasy pasty kind of goo.

voila!

I use motul lube right now and it's not bad, flings a lot. PJ1 blue label is the best according to a recent test I read somewhere.

hope that helps a little.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
Bender, I agree with the paint thinner drying out the rings IF it's a harsh solvent like lacquer thinner, toluene or any of those more volitile ones. But basic oil based house paint thinner commonly sold as "low odour thnner". Check out the WD-40 ingedients and you'll find "petroleum distillate" which is........ TA DA, low odour paint thinner which is also pretty much the same thing as Varsol. We're talking about a low volitility solvent here that is only a step above kerosene.

I've been using this paint thinner for years and on more than one occasion I've left O rings in a bowl of it for days with no bad effects. But put a bit of rubber into lacquer thinner and watch it swell and deform almost before your eyes.

You have to remember that there are about 10 to 15 commonly found "paint thinners" out there for different paints. Only the one is OK for cleaning the chains AFAIK. Fortunetley the good one is the cheap one in this case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
I use WD-40 and it does a great job. I doubt very much that there's any water IN it because it's silicone based and the propellant is solvent. Very tough place for H20 to survive. Just coat the chain right away with lube and you can safely use WD-40 for a sparkling clean chain.
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
yeah, I don't know how WD40 could contain water when it is known for it's water reppelant(sp?) properties. doesn't the WD stand for Water Displacement?

as for the thinner, yes, I made a general statement regarding thinners. basically, WD40 or kerosene will do the job. one reason people don't like WD40 is because it leaves behind a lubricating film. it IS a lubricant ater all.
 

·
Just Another Enthusiast
Joined
·
2,051 Posts
Finally, some other people who use WD. I clean my chain at least every week with WD, and my chains do not suffer from premature wear.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
BTW, I just know that we all buy the WD in those little containers but there is nothing wrong with getting it in bulk and using a little plant sprayer with the stuff. Maybe we could do a "group buy" on a 5 gallon (or whatever the metric equiv. is) and just put it away in a gallon, oh sorry, a 4.55 liter can or bottle until needed.

I know when I use it for chain cleaning it seems to dissapear awfully quickly..........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
Has anybody tried Simple Green? It works like magic on grease, but I'm not sure of its effects on aluminum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,195 Posts
Hu99 said:
Has anybody tried Simple Green? It works like magic on grease, but I'm not sure of its effects on aluminum.
It doesn't bother aluminium at all. I use if for cleaning my bicycles all the time. It's not very powerful though.

I doubt it would even touch the sludgy mess that chain lubes leave behind. You really need a solvent for that. We could probably use a water based degreaser like Citri-Solv but it goes against my nature to use anything water based that I have to use water to wash off my chain.

BTW. I know there are O rings in the chain but it's really not a good idea to use any amount of pressure from a hose around the chain or any other seal area. For this reason I will only use a soft flow from an open hose or a soft plant friendly spray from a nozzle. Hard water jets like strong hose nozzles or spray type car washes that blast dirt away will push the water right past any lip or O ring seal in a flash ruining chains, bearings and whatever else is in there.

And besides I usually clean and lube my chain after washing the bike and I don't want to wait for any water to dry so I use solvent or WD and after rubbing and wicking as dry as I can get it the lube goes on. I know some of you like to warm the chain but I don't go riding for at least 1/2 hour after doing this so it's quite dry and sticky enough thankyouverymuch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
BMatthews said:
It doesn't bother aluminium at all. I use if for cleaning my bicycles all the time. It's not very powerful though.
Get the full strength version, not the household one. Get the foaming spray bottle and foam it on....leave it for a few minutes then agitate with a toothbrush (preferably one you won't be using for dental hygiene again) then foam again and wait another few minutes. Melts the sludge away like magic. I used to use it on my VFR, but then some know it all said that it's bad for aluminum. It never discoloured the VFR hub at all, but I played it safe with the ZX9. Maybe I'll start using it again, because the WHMIS fact sheet claims it to be completely innocuous and water soluble.
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top