Breakin on a new bike

1598 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Hu99, Mar 19, 2002

Endo

Discussion Starter · Mar 15, 2002

It doesn't say anywhere that you shouldn't rev a new bike over a certain RPM. Mine says not to hold the rpm over 5000 for "an extended period of time" for the first 1000kms. It is however good for the bike to rev it through most of it's rpm range during the breakin. I haven't taken mine over 10000rpm yet but I do quite frequently rev it up to this rpm. This is how a bike should be broken in.

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adamantium

· #2 · Mar 15, 2002

There have always been debates on how to break in a bike. I do believe the manufactuers want you to keep it easy on her for the first while though so that everything settles in nicely.

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Endo

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 16, 2002

taking it easy and reving it through the RPMs are two entirely different things. A sport bike engine is built with forged pistons and moly rings. The proper way to seat moly rings is to rev the engine though almost all of it's rpm range and run the engine fairly hot. It is not good however to maintain high rpms during the breakin period. Also, the main bearings and especially the cam bearings need about 100-200kms of easy riding and without extremely high rpms to breakin properly. Finally the clutch in a bike needs to be engaged slowly but not slipped excessively (causing heat) to be properly broken in or glazing will occur. What this all boils down to is the frist 100-200 kms of the breakin should be taken extremely easy, and the rest is for the breakin of the rings in the engine and although shouldn't be riden hard, the majority of the rpm range should be used.

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TeeTee

· #4 · Mar 16, 2002

What you have here is essentially right. But 10K might be a little harsh on the valves if they are a little out of spec. But you say you only touch that occasionally so I'd say you're fine.

This certainly goes along with the advice I got to "use it but don't abuse it" for break-in.

I know that once I got past the initial break-in and started going for some harder rides the bike always seemed to run better after a hard ride for some distance.

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jonathan

· #5 · Mar 16, 2002

the correct way to break in moly rings ?

pressure ! how do you create cylinder pressure ? WIDE OPEN THROTTLE

first thing to do is go out and run the bike through its rpm range under wide open throttle in say, 4th gear...

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Hu99

· #6 · Mar 16, 2002 (Edited)

I agree with the "thrash it" philosophy, but not for the first 1,000km. That mileage is not intended for the seating process as much as it is for the prevention of catastrophe. If anything is going to go wrong, it will be during that gentle 1,000km process. After that....open her up!

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TeeTee

· #7 · Mar 16, 2002

jonathan said:
the correct way to break in moly rings ?

pressure ! how do you create cylinder pressure ? WIDE OPEN THROTTLE

first thing to do is go out and run the bike through its rpm range under wide open throttle in say, 4th gear...

For the rings maybe but the rest of the engine and tranny would like a tiny bit more consideration.

I like Hu99's idea. A proggresively increased level of strain over the first 1000 Km. That's how I did it on my last 3 new bikes and it worked well. That and keep the rpm's in reasonable check until after the first valve adjustment.

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· #8 · Mar 16, 2002

Don't forget, the break in period of 1000km also serves to break in other things as well to prolong the bikes life. Shifting often and throughout gear box range will help prolong it.

Don't forget about breaking in your tires. I can't remeber how many times I've seen someone pull out a brand new bike from the dealership, only to give it too much gas, or lean it over too much, and having it end up back in the shop.

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