Your vacuum should not be floating around that much at idle, or any RPM range for that matter, it should remain fairly steady. I leak wouldnt typically appear as frequent variations in vacuum, but more so as a drop in the overall reading.
I don't actually have the neato 4 in 1 tool (but thanks for the tip). Anyone want to hazard a guess on what's causing my vaccuum fluctuation, or if Im doing something wrong??Want more fun,,,,,,,?
Most carb stix aren't calibrated so you need to check them.
Connect two of the gauge lines to one of the bikes vacuum taps at the same time, they should read the same.
The reason they do not is the glass or plastic tubing that is used is not the exact same dia in the ID so they read differently.
I got some advice last night that it could still be a vacuum leak and that I should check using an unlit propane torch, I'll probably do that today and if I can't make progress there, then what you suggest is my next step. thanks for taking an interestProbably time to pull that bank of carbs, clean and inspect them, make sure they have all the right breather hoses hooked up, all the jets and needles are OK etc. Heard of one guy who put in a kit, and the needles hadn't been machined properly.They vibrated during use and milled out the mains so you couldn't do anything but pony up for new carbs (ZX-9).
What tool *are* you using?I don't actually have the neato 4 in 1 tool (but thanks for the tip). Anyone want to hazard a guess on what's causing my vaccuum fluctuation, or if Im doing something wrong??
Cory
A regular old vacuum gauge (the only one to be had at canadian tire yesterday morning)..What tool *are* you using?
Are you sure it's up to the task?A regular old vacuum gauge (the only one to be had at canadian tire yesterday morning)..
Cory
I tried to eliminate the gauge as a part of the behaviour and could not re-create the oscillation without actual vacuum oscillation so I feel (fairly) confident that it is reading true (ie: the gauge itself is not faulty/insensitive/too sensitive). I *am* keeping that fact in mind though, unfortunately I have more suppositions guesses and inferences than facts at this point :/Are you sure it's up to the task?
Maybe before you start trying to diagnose an (assumed) problem with your bike you should test again with a proper carb synch tool? (Ie. beg borrow but don't steal?)