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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey,

Recently I have started having issues with starting the bike from cold. I get the spark and all lights come on; but it would start either at the second try, or from the first try, but with some obvious effort.
If I stall it for a few minutes, and then get back on it, it starts like a champ.
The bike is fuel-injected.
I think it began when I tried to start the bike with an almost empty tank about two weeks ago, but it has been doing that ever since.

Should I attempt to switch the spark plug? Any clues?
 

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Formerly kanelupis
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How long does the first start take if it even starts at all (how long are you on the starter button)?
 

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Fastronaut
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So you're talking about the way it won't catch till the third crank?

On my single that's a sign to set the valves. Could be a battery going flat too.
 

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So you're talking about the way it won't catch till the third crank?

On my single that's a sign to set the valves. Could be a battery going flat too.
I recently had a hard start issue on my single and sure enough the exhaust valves were out. The adjust fixed it FWIW.
 

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I'm not sure that video differentiates the overlap stroke or power stroke properly. Wouldn't the TDC mark be viewable twice?? Adjusting the valves on the overlap stroke won't help but could hurt.. This is method I use (not written by me):

Common way: The common way it to find TDC on the Firing stroke. The
problem with this is too many folks end up on the Overlap stroke. This
causes endless confusion, people putting straws down plug holes and endless
other tricks that still often leave them on the wrong TDC.

My way: With this method you do not need to remove the spark plug, magneto
cover, skid plate or the TDC bolt in the bottom of the crankcase or the
associated dirt.

Intake valves; Transmission in top gear, rear wheel off the ground (in your case the crank cover bolt off, and in neutral), if you
have a helper one can watch the valves. Rotate the
engine gently with the wheel to locate the point where the exhaust valve
starts to open then rotate very gently until the exhaust valves are 1/2 way
open! Minor frustration, we are now fighting against the valve spring which
wants to roll the engine back, so to stop it you either have to have a
helper hold the rear brake or, as this gets pretty boring so;
Option 1; Take a tie down, hook one end to the brake pedal, wrap in under
the bike and up the left side to something like the top of the frame behind
the engine. Now just tighten the strap so the brake can keep the engine from
rolling back.
Option 2; ( I use this method) Put a bar thru the spoke of the rear wheel adjacent to the swing
arm to stop the wheel.

In your case you should be able to have a helper hold the engine turning nut in positon with that 17MM socket


At this point the Intakes are on Center of the Heal of the Cam. Proceed to
adjust.

Exhaust valves; As above, except, locate the point where the intake valves
have opened and are 1/2 way closed (engine rotating forward). As the intake
is closing the engine will want roll forward PAST the way point and the
lash in the transmission and chain will make it so you can not stop the
engine, so let it go just past, then roll the wheel backwards and secure it
with the brake or bar again. Now proceed to adjust the Exhausts.

ALWAYS! ALL 4 STROKE ENGINES: With the engine rotating its correct direction
the exhaust is adjusted when the intake is closing and the intake is
adjusted when the exhaust is opening!


I'm no mechanic and have never worked on that bike - just trying to make a point that you need to be on the right stroke if you are using the TDC method - might be easier/other options on that bike.
 

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I'm not sure that video differentiates the overlap stroke or power stroke properly. Wouldn't the TDC mark be viewable twice?? Adjusting the valves on the overlap stroke won't help but could hurt.. This is method I use (not written by me):

Common way: The common way it to find TDC on the Firing stroke. The
problem with this is too many folks end up on the Overlap stroke. This
causes endless confusion, people putting straws down plug holes and endless
other tricks that still often leave them on the wrong TDC.

My way: With this method you do not need to remove the spark plug, magneto
cover, skid plate or the TDC bolt in the bottom of the crankcase or the
associated dirt.

Intake valves; Transmission in top gear, rear wheel off the ground (in your case the crank cover bolt off, and in neutral), if you
have a helper one can watch the valves. Rotate the
engine gently with the wheel to locate the point where the exhaust valve
starts to open then rotate very gently until the exhaust valves are 1/2 way
open! Minor frustration, we are now fighting against the valve spring which
wants to roll the engine back, so to stop it you either have to have a
helper hold the rear brake or, as this gets pretty boring so;
Option 1; Take a tie down, hook one end to the brake pedal, wrap in under
the bike and up the left side to something like the top of the frame behind
the engine. Now just tighten the strap so the brake can keep the engine from
rolling back.
Option 2; ( I use this method) Put a bar thru the spoke of the rear wheel adjacent to the swing
arm to stop the wheel.

In your case you should be able to have a helper hold the engine turning nut in positon with that 17MM socket


At this point the Intakes are on Center of the Heal of the Cam. Proceed to
adjust.

Exhaust valves; As above, except, locate the point where the intake valves
have opened and are 1/2 way closed (engine rotating forward). As the intake
is closing the engine will want roll forward PAST the way point and the
lash in the transmission and chain will make it so you can not stop the
engine, so let it go just past, then roll the wheel backwards and secure it
with the brake or bar again. Now proceed to adjust the Exhausts.

ALWAYS! ALL 4 STROKE ENGINES: With the engine rotating its correct direction
the exhaust is adjusted when the intake is closing and the intake is
adjusted when the exhaust is opening!


I'm no mechanic and have never worked on that bike - just trying to make a point that you need to be on the right stroke if you are using the TDC method - might be easier/other options on that bike.

That's the most convoluted way I've ever heard. How about looking at the cams since the valve cover is off and when the lobes oppose(on most bikes) find your timing mark. Really not hard.
 

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If you can see them great - not the case on my bike. And that method is super fast and super easy once understood.

As I said: I'm no mechanic and have never worked on that bike - just trying to make a point that you need to be on the right stroke if you are using the TDC method - might be easier/other options on that bike.

Cheers.
 

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i thought tdc is when both exhaust and intake are both open or partially open. on most newer bikes there should be a timing mark somewhere. you simply line it up and your at the tdc.

edit: how many km's are on the bike?
 

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i thought tdc is when both exhaust and intake are both open or partially open. on most newer bikes there should be a timing mark somewhere. you simply line it up and your at the tdc.

edit: how many km's are on the bike?

well when doing a valve adjust you want it on tdc compression, not overlap. it's pretty straightforward, if it's not on comp on the mark turn it over 360 degrees and you'll be on comp.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not sure that video differentiates the overlap stroke or power stroke properly. Wouldn't the TDC mark be viewable twice?? Adjusting the valves on the overlap stroke won't help but could hurt.. This is method I use (not written by me):
[....]
[/I]
Thanks a ton man! Getting a glossary and spending the weekend in the garage trying to figure out how to do it.

The mileage is 6700, about 2500 put on by me.
 

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