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C

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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to learn on basic bike mechanics here... in particular... starting up, choke, carbs, fuel line stuff...

I just want to make sure... if u leave the choke on too long when starting it up for the first time that day, it will get "flooded" correct???... So the max the choke shoudl be On is 1 or 2 minutes.. right??...

Am I on the right track here or am I wrong??

And if the bike does get "flooded"... then, what can be done generally go "un-flood" the bike???

Help me out here ppls. thanks.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #2
use as much choke as is needed to start the bike. i like to idle at 1500 rpm so adjust the choke acordingly to keep the rpms there. As the bike gets warmer you will need less and less choke, untill its off completely, then you can start riding. and no you wont flood it.
 
B

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Discussion Starter #3
i don't think flooding the engine is much of an issue unless (i think) you have a lot of choke on and you give some gas....if the engine is flooded it will stall. And if it happens, i've been told to turn off the choke, and push the start button while giving a good handful of the throttle. Haven't flooded so haven't tried it!
As for the choke, two mins is no prob, i leave mine until the engine temp is where i want it to be, up to 5 minutes or so.
 

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Yeah, it doesn't so much flood as it just runs really rough. It's good to progresively roll off the choke as the bike runs. Just keep readjusting so the idle stays at about 1500 rpms as Jamie says and you'll be fine.

Running it with full choke for too long and too many times will increase the wear over the long haul. The extra gas from the full choke when not needed will help to thin or wash away the oil film on the cylinder walls. This can let the rings and walls wear a little more than they normally would each time you do this.

Oh, and let's not forget that it can foul the plugs.
 
S

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Discussion Starter #5
Flooding is more of a problem if you say, drop your bike. This is a good thing to keep in mind. If you drop your bike on the street, and try to start it after picking it up you've gotta grab a handful of throttle (full throttle if needed) with the choke completely off before hitting ignition.

I say keep this in mind, because if it does happen in traffic, you'll pick it up, and be like...WTF?? why isn't it starting?! Which adds to the panic.
 
C

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the advices....

im asking this cuz on my F2..... the last few times ive started it up in the morning.... the procedure i use is......

1. full choke.
2. start it up.

simple... yes... but then after say 2 or so minutes.... the bike just dies... as if not enough gas is going through or it's "flooding"

has this happpened to anyone or does anyone know what it might be??

ive learned to start it up on full choke... then simultaneously take off teh choke slowly while increasing the idle then just lower the idle as the bike gets warmer.... is this safe or wil lthis be causing damage in the long run?????
 

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Okay, applying full choke when starting is correct. Once the engine is started, you should be able to reduce the choke to approximately 1/2. After 15-30 seconds, you should be able to put the choke all the way off. You do not need to touch the throttle.

If it needs to be choked much longer than that, you need a tune up. Or you have a Kawasaki.

If you leave the choke on full for 2 minutes you will foul your plugs.
 
C

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Discussion Starter #8
StarskyAndHutch said:
Okay, applying full choke when starting is correct. Once the engine is started, you should be able to reduce the choke to approximately 1/2. After 15-30 seconds, you should be able to put the choke all the way off. You do not need to touch the throttle.

If it needs to be choked much longer than that, you need a tune up. Or you have a Kawasaki.

If you leave the choke on full for 2 minutes you will foul your plugs.
there we go.. thast what i was looking for....

dont make fun of me after this question... but how does too much choke or too long of a choke fock up the plugs?????
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I've always thought that the choke was only to be used until your bike runs smoothly without it. If you park your bike outside that might mean a minute or two at the max (depending on how new it is.) If you store your bike in a heated garage like I do, you should only have to go full choke for 10-15 seconds and half for 10 seconds then ease off completely. You don't want to half it on full for like 3 minutes. It's completely unnecessary, especially on newer bikes.
 
C

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I did this yesterday... after about 15-20 seconds, I took off the choke slowly, if the bike sounded like it was going to die then i turned up hte idle a bit... till the choke was totally off then i turned down the idle as it got warmer..... so now i know how it likes it. Thanks everyone!
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks a lot peoples.... it runs great now... thanks for the help.
 
K

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Discussion Starter #13
HEy all. I have a 1986 kawi gpz600. And i got it running good yesterday, but today it dusnt run. I draiend out the float bowls, put the tank on, put it on PRI for a few minutes, and then onto ON, and it wont start.. its not flooded, the plugs are dry.. help :banghead
 

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Motorcycle Man said:
Okay, applying full choke when starting is correct. Once the engine is started, you should be able to reduce the choke to approximately 1/2. After 15-30 seconds, you should be able to put the choke all the way off. You do not need to touch the throttle.

If it needs to be choked much longer than that, you need a tune up. Or you have a Kawasaki.

If you leave the choke on full for 2 minutes you will foul your plugs.
Haha Kawasaki.... so true
 
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