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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought a hot tub :rockon

and I need to get her installed. We got an extra 220 outlet already, but I think the breaker will need to be a gfci 40amp breaker. You see the dryer was moved to where the stove used to be, I don't know if they changed the breakers or not. The dryer is currently hooked up to a 40 amp breaker, and the open outlet where the dryer used to be is a 30amp. Does that sound right, or should they be switched?

So the question part? Would this be a gfci breaker hooked up to a dryer/stove? or do I need to buy something different?

I don't plan on installing everything myself, so if there's electrical peeps that wanna help out for beer, and tub parties to ogle random bikini clad women, speak up :D
 

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Three hour tour guide
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Phil, I know just enough to be dangerous, so I'll chime in.

i doubt very much that your existing breakers for the original stove and/or dryer were ground fault interupt. So you'll probably have to purchase one and install into the slot that feeds the outlet you want to plug the hot tub in to.

As well look carefully at the plug, there are a number of 220 recepticals that at first blush look the same but in fact they are not, I believe the plug and receptical need to be matched for the amp load, in other words if your tub is a 40 amp plug, I do not think it'll fit a 30 amp receptical.

You may also be able to get a GFI receptical, but I'm not sure on that...

Good luck, another source of info would be the elec guys at a place like Home Depot, they probably answer this type of thing every day....
 
D

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i can cause an electrical fire with the best of them.

a fiberglass hottub generally doesn't come with a plug. you have to hard wire it into a disconnect. there is usually a gfi on it as well. exceptions to every rule though.

you will want to have your motor and heater circuits looked at to see what they draw, if they are 120/240 convertible, and see if you can get away with plugging it into a dryer/stove outlet.

the way i read this, you want it set up and connected where the dryer used to be, because the dryer is now where the stove is.

silly question, but how many gallons is it? ground floor or outside? you have to think about the weight of all that water on a floor too.
 

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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #5
the stove is gone, just the dryer remains. I think don is right, I'll need to purchase the new breaker. It'll be hard wired, and the hot tub doesn't have it's own gfci breaker, it's required that i get one. Changing out the 220 plug out isn't a problem. I'll stop by the home depot and ask some questions.
 

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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #7
i do buddy, got an extra 2 spaces for the breaker :D
 

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What I get so far is this: You'll definitely need a new 40 amp GFCI breaker for the new hot tub. The wire running to the hot tub will need to be a minimum of 3 conductor No.8 copper. If the tub is going to stay in one place, I would hard wire the connection to prevent anyone from messing with the receptacle when using the tub (water+electricity=:flashy ). On most residential panels, what looks like 2 free spaces could actually only be one on one phase. You have to make sure that the new breaker straddles both phases (A & B) to get the 220 volts needed.

I hope that helps.
 

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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #9
Spin996 said:
What I get so far is this: You'll definitely need a new 40 amp GFCI breaker for the new hot tub. The wire running to the hot tub will need to be a minimum of 3 conductor No.8 copper. If the tub is going to stay in one place, I would hard wire the connection to prevent anyone from messing with the receptacle when using the tub (water+electricity=:flashy ). On most residential panels, what looks like 2 free spaces could actually only be one on one phase. You have to make sure that the new breaker straddles both phases (A & B) to get the 220 volts needed.

I hope that helps.

Sorry, by two spaces I mean there's a two space breaker in there for where the dryer used to be. It will definatley be hard wired into the tub. The sheet said I need a 4 wire cable hookup. Do you know what guage I'm supposed to get? The cable will be running outdoors along side the house, so the housing will have to be pretty skookem. :S In over my head, but it's gonna be so worth it :D
 

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boarder said:
Sorry, by two spaces I mean there's a two space breaker in there for where the dryer used to be. It will definatley be hard wired into the tub. The sheet said I need a 4 wire cable hookup. Do you know what guage I'm supposed to get? The cable will be running outdoors along side the house, so the housing will have to be pretty skookem. :S In over my head, but it's gonna be so worth it :D
The fourth wire is probably referring to the ground wire. If your going to run the wire outside where it could get damaged to may want to run conduit or use teck cable. Teck is a little expensive but easier to install. Going by what I've read so far, sounds like you'll need 3 conductors (No. 8 AWG) and a ground wire.
 

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West Koots, I'm here....
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How far is the run going to be from the panel to the hot-tub? Voltage drop may have to be accounted for in the size of the conductors. 4-wire refers to the conductors (black, red, white) and the ground. I would use teck, for the ease of installation, and of course you'll need waterproof connectors for it. I'll look up the special requirements for hot-tubs in my electrical code book and post back.
 

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Can you bury teck cable? Were you planning on hanging the wire? Remember there is code for that as well.
 
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boarder said:
So I bought a hot tub :rockon

and I need to get her installed. We got an extra 220 outlet already, but I think the breaker will need to be a gfci 40amp breaker. You see the dryer was moved to where the stove used to be, I don't know if they changed the breakers or not. The dryer is currently hooked up to a 40 amp breaker, and the open outlet where the dryer used to be is a 30amp. Does that sound right, or should they be switched?

So the question part? Would this be a gfci breaker hooked up to a dryer/stove? or do I need to buy something different?

I don't plan on installing everything myself, so if there's electrical peeps that wanna help out for beer, and tub parties to ogle random bikini clad women, speak up :D

Do you have extra space in your panel...
If so just rewire from it...
 

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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #14
Good old Pete said:
Can you bury teck cable? Were you planning on hanging the wire? Remember there is code for that as well.

nope, running it along the wall. there's a nook underneath where the siding ends that'll be perfect and out of the way, then I was thinking of running a pvc pipe across the gravel to get the the hot tub on the pad
 

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Vindicated
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don't forget to wire for the beer fridge.

:cheers
 

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flyfishinwoman said:
How far is the run going to be from the panel to the hot-tub? Voltage drop may have to be accounted for in the size of the conductors. 4-wire refers to the conductors (black, red, white) and the ground. I would use teck, for the ease of installation, and of course you'll need waterproof connectors for it. I'll look up the special requirements for hot-tubs in my electrical code book and post back.
Word. It never hurts to go oversize on the wire. Less resistance, will heat up slightly faster, etc, etc.
 

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Super-Fast Redneck
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dunno if flyfishin woman is a electrician or not but i am.. she is pretty close and ill add to it.

First ill say. I have never hooked up a hottub that is less then 50 Amp.

second. if it is 40 A you have to use #8 copper TECK or #6 Aluminum ACWU.
both of these you can bury. YOu wont need to upsize the wire unless the tub is more then 100 ft or so away from the panel then there is a possibility that you have to upsize. You do have to use a GFCI breaker, the breaker you have leftover from the stove is not a GFI. That should get you started anyway. PM if you need any more help... id come help you but im kinda far away. so good luck and if you have any doubts at all i suggest getting a certified electrician to make the connections. (Usually warranty requires this anyway) GOODLUCK
 

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X-nasty
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don't go to Home Depot to ask questions...you might as well pay someone off the street to give you free advice, much like this.

Hire an Electrician, maybe you can get one that will work for the first oily dip;) then again, maybe she will be hot
 

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I do all my own stunts
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Discussion Starter #20
how much it costs, and how much it'll be worth to me when it's here are entirely different :D


and thanks for all the tips, I won't be doing this on my own, I was however looking for the parts that I'd need to buy in advance
 
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