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I'm in a bit of a pinch. Anyone know of an electronics store that is adept at cutting the cable on a set of In Ear Monitors and soldering on a new 3.5mm jack?

Thanks
 

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Anything beyond the old 2 wire set up is going to be tough. Good luck and I'll follow the thread in case an answer turns up.
 

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This. I was there last week and there's a treasure trove of 'bits' and knowledge there. I can't wait to add more switches and things to the bike.
seconded!

yep, stumbled into their shop a year or so ago looking for a special connector i needed for work.. i was impressed with their little setup.


Yes Frank i saw them soldering away, they have a couple of proper stations.
 

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i should show you my bluetooth controlled power distributor. Its pretty amazing what can be accomplished with it.

https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/
Would love to see it sometime. Have considered the Neutrino or the Motobrain at some point but ended up going with what I had already: Fuzeblock. Maybe you can elaborate on some of the rules and conditions you've set up in using the Neutrino - I could use some ideas for the future.
 

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Would love to see it sometime. Have considered the Neutrino or the Motobrain at some point but ended up going with what I had already: Fuzeblock. Maybe you can elaborate on some of the rules and conditions you've set up in using the Neutrino - I could use some ideas for the future.
My favorite is that to use the temperature probe to manage my heated gear. It's set to come on at a set temp and heat level, and then it scales up or down as the temp gets warmer or colder.

I also have it set to keep my GPS powered on for 5 minutes after the bike turns off, this way it does not turn off when i stop for gas.

If i had fancy driving lights, i could make then turn on automatically a set amount of time before sunset every night.
 

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interestingly enough CDG, i had to do some soldering of my own tonight.. picked up some AUX driving lights for the Raider.

the connector leads are way too long so i soldered in new .040 Mutlilock terminals for the new turn signals w/ DRLs..

i could use some practice, but it will do for now.. these use stranded wires as well but the gauge is much better (ie. easier) to deal with.

i would be afraid of over-heating the drivers etc with how tiny those headphone wires can be, but maybe i'm overthinking it.

for anydoby else messing around with wiring, when it comes to bike's lighting n' DIY just solder the damn things. crimping sux! :thumbup
 

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for anydoby else messing around with wiring, when it comes to bike's lighting n' DIY just solder the damn things. crimping sux! :thumbup
For vehicle use, a properly crimped connector is far more reliable than soldered one. * *
 

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For vehicle use, a properly crimped connector is far more reliable than soldered one. * *
In the flight/space industry a soldered connector is not even allowed. A crimped connector is stronger and more reliable, but I also understand the preference to solder. The issue is that its a lot easier to do a soldered joint poorly.
 

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A crimped connector is stronger and more reliable, but I also understand the preference to solder. The issue is that its a lot easier to do a soldered joint poorly.
i agree on both accounts above.. point is, i have two crimpers, one of 'em is fancy bits but the PROPER
recommended SPECIFICALLY (bored yet?) for these terminal inserts is a SHIP ONLY.. Been way to busy
to research that side of things so mine are merely technician industry standards.

believe me, I wouldnt even bother posting.. if you dont have the right bloody tools, and you know how to solder.. its a solid connection. :flashy

I crimped them, but i dont trust said crimp any more than i trust a polar bear hug..
been soldering since i was in grade 10 though.. no cold solders here. :D

For vehicle use, a properly crimped connector is far more reliable than soldered one. * *
terminal inserts are CHEAP as FVCK.. for where i'm going and within specified time-frame.. i'll take proper soldering any time of the day and twice on sunday. :D

aka, lights are on and bright as ever, works for me :D


also, i am not a robot.. the Kuryakyn lights i purchased came with factory installed inserts,
they are sure purdy!! but again, robots.. :laughing

harness wires are way too long for my needs, that portion of the kit is one size fits all but its absurd for what
i'm doing so i purchased my own Japanese connectors / terminals online.. :thumbup

i also purchased a full bullet terminal male/female kit for the AUX connector to run my
GPS / PCV & AUTO-TUNE. LED headlight has been running for a month already too.
 

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no cold solders here. :D
Even good solder joints are less reliable, it's more about the stress transition at the end of the wire tinning. The tools can be expensive, but you don't have to spend $1000+ to get a decent reliable crimp.

If you aren't asleep yet, NASA does publish their wire termination specs.... *
 

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Even good solder joints are less reliable, it's more about the stress transition at the end of the wire tinning.
to be honest I think you're splitting hairs.. and its not unusual online as we always reach for the handbook when it comes to forum posting.

as mentioned above, i only stumbled onto the 'right' crimping tool after i ordered my kit.. heck I even found the right set of crimping 'blocks'
that will fit directly onto my fancy bits crimper which i purchased for a job locally.. it wont do shit for me if its sitting in a warehouse in Florida!!

having said that, and more.. i'm at least editing this post as it appears the fancy bits tool does work in conjuntion with the "other" more basic crimper I own.

Due to weird working position I am not 100% comfortable with soldering while working over the main harness which services the ECU.

I found the fancy bits tool has the wrong sizes for what i require but there is one that does work for the insulated portion even if i'm practically crushing it.

I've dealt with other concerns for connectivity on the bare wire portion for now which will last me till Winter though..

i'll order the correct chompers at such point, those terminals which I did solder are very clean, and will not fail any time soon.
 

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Now did you heat shrink it or black tape it?:rtfm

And if black tape which direction did you wrap it? *Remember we're in the northern hemisphere. :flashy*
 
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