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Gear whore
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi F4i owners.

I'd like to hear your experiences with the CCT.
did you get it replaced?
what mileage did the noise start to happen?
what rpms does it happen to you?
please describe your experiences,.. thanks :)

my bike has started to rattle in that tiny bit of powerband between 5500-6000 rpms. i'm guessing it's the CCT but i could be wrong. i've got around 5000kms.
 

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Ride On
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32 Posts
Chain Cam Tensioner

I Had a problem with my chain cam tensioner at around 2,500-3,000km's. The noise would start at around 5,500-7,000 RPM's. It is very subtle. I had other friends ride my bike to see if they heard anything but they didn't. I thought I was losing my mind, untill I took it to RMS and asked them. They confirmed the noises I was hearing and replaced it under warranty. So I had no problems since.:thumbup Hope that helped.
 

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yiks
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786 Posts
you are right CCT, but nothing you can do about it, if you get it replaced they replace it with the same part so it will happen again.
 

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Ride On
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32 Posts
CCT

When I took mine into RMS they told me that they had replaced my CCT with an aftermarket one so it shouldn't happen again.
 

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194 Posts
whats it sound like? ive got 4000km's, and i hear stuff, just dont know what it is you guys hear.
and boo, my warranty is void'd :(
 
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Hey black venom i have the same rattle from 5500 to 6500rpm's, i have almost learnt to live with it, it gets loader when i down shift through those rpms.
 

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1,558 Posts
AHA, that's what that rattle is...

Hrm... How much does one of these bitches cost? Is it a possible self install or do you have to goto a shop?
 

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2,673 Posts
i have a few customers that have gone through 3 of them on there f4i''s,the rattle varies some at just off idle some higher,there is a updated part#(new version available) i cant remember the # though.

i think there worth 100 or so from the dealer or a after market one is around the same.

as for doing it your self,well,its pretty easy ,its just the access is tight and you need a few smaller tools 1/4 drive ratchet etc...

if its real noisy replace it,just think of it as a really really loose chain on your sprockets.it'll also cause wear on the cam sprockets as well.for a 100 or a warranty job its worth it.

john
 

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383 Posts
You have a blown cam chain tensioner, I almost guarantee it. If you seach it you'll prolly find a dozen threads on it. It's easy to replace (maybe half an hour) and if you don't want to have to do it again then forget the oem one and buy a manual cct. About $100. I've done a couple. It's a very common problem with all CBR600F's
 

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274 Posts
who fixes the CCT for 100 bucks
and also
what do you mean by a manual one
that does change the set up of the stock chain or anything in anyway?
some more info would be nice
 

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1,558 Posts
I called my shop, (I luv my shop)

THey told me to come in and they will see if they can do it "free of charge" even though I am a year outta warranty.

Sounds like it is quite a concern and for this weekend I was told to ride it outside of that range. Ie: dont cruise at 5500-6000 rpm.

will ask for a non-oem one.
 

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2,673 Posts
thats what a new one is worth(not installed)

a manual one is nothing more than a bolt that you manually adjust in to tighten the cam chain,instead of the stocker which is auto.ape makes them.

first pic is a auto(stock)
second is a manual ape.
 

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Jackie Chan's stuntdouble
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1,535 Posts
The automatic tensioner that comes with the bike is essentially:
- a coil spring that turns a screw
- the screw extends a piston
- the piston pushes the chain guide against the chain

The spring gets weak after a while and does not apply enough pressure. When it starts to go bad, you get a light buzzing sound just above 5,000 rpm. As it gets worse, the buzz gets louder and over a wider rpm range. When it gets really bad, it sounds like your bike is about to fall apart.

The manual tensioner is just a bolt that presses on the chain guide. You tighten the bolt every 15,000 km or so. There is a lock nut to hold it in place.
 

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Jackie Chan's stuntdouble
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1,535 Posts
The manual tensioners are something like $65. The savings can add up as it will never wear out, unlike the automatic tensioners.
 
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