hey guys so i got an 08 R1 and the bike won't start. battery is charged... duno if it's a sensor thing or what but sometimes it starts sometimes not .. just turns over and over but doesn't fire.. any tips ?
nice i just got the bodywork done and its the same paint scheme as your avitar.. well the battery is charged but it is a salvage bike that i'm trying to get on the road and i'm not a mechanic. when i 1st got the bike it would fire and then sometimes it wouldn't the engine light is on as well, i just did oil on it and gas i duno there are probably busted senors somewhere? i just don't why it was fire and now it's not at all? it tries turning over but then nothing.
ite well i'll check the battery and see if i can figure out this diagnostic thing... i don't get it though .. the thing was running a couple days ago and its been sitting on trickle.... keep you posted thnx for the help guys
Key off, kill switch "on". Hold both dash buttons (select and reset), turn key on, wait 8-10 seconds. "diag" should appear. Hold both buttons again (2 seconds) and you should a different menu pop up with #'s. If I remember right select scrolls forward through sections, reset scrolls backwards through sections. On the R6, I believe 'section' 60/61 shows fault codes, if any are active, they will blink and show what codes are present. Look up the code in the manual to see what its problem is. The R1 may also use a different section to list codes.
Look for the diagnostics mode/fault code table in the manual, it takes a bit of reading to decipher, but gets clearer quickly. Hopefully this helps you and isn't sending you on a goose chase.
A fully charged battery doesn't always mean the battery has sufficient cranking ability. As it's such an easy thing to check out, I'd recommend taking the battery to a battery shop/dealer (Not Canadian Tire -an actual dealer would do better) and have the battery load tested. Could be as easy as a worn out battery...
From 07 manual, page 8-36 it has step-by-step there (8-31 onward is the diagnostic information). When scrolling through diagnostics d61 / d62 look like the current/history of the code faults. Dunno how much damage you can do fiddling in there, make sure you understand each move you makem, i'm no mechanic, just like saving $ in the past and I ran across the diagnostic.
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “ON”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump. <------------ I have never done this to my r6, dunno if needed
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to
“ON”, and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
"All displays on the meter disappear except the odometer/trip meter/fuel reservoir trip meter/stop
• “dIAG” appears on the odometer/trip meter/fuel reservoir trip meter/stop watch LCD."
4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the diagnostic mode “dIAG”.
5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds
or more to activate the diagnostic mode. The diagnostic code number “d01” appears on the
odometer/trip meter/fuel reservoir trip meter/stop watch LCD.
6. Set the engine stop switch to “OFF”.
7. Select the diagnostic code number corresponding to the fault code number by pressing the
“SELECT” and “RESET” buttons.
AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH IT WAS THE KEYYYY!!!! IT'S ALIVE!!! when i got the bike it only came with one key so i bought a blank one off ebay and had it cut so i'v been using the new one last couple days and when i put the old key back in it fired up.. woowwwww i guess this new key is useless..
I know that the F4i's have a know issue with the CCT making rattling noises, but I am not too sure if this is the noise I am hearing or not.
What is happening with my F4i is that when my bike is in neutral and I rev the engine up to around 5-6k there is no sound..but when I release...
Anyone in the LMD that has experience in rebuilding mid-eighties 2 strokes? Multi-cylinder stuff, not singles.
I have located a few in the UK, but I would prefer to ship an engine overseas as a last resort.
Anyone who owns a Honda VFR 800 VTEC really should read the following. I have been dealing with this saga for a year and it finally appears the answer is at hand. The starter valves are not synced properly at either the factory or the dealer, plus the service manual is very misleading!
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