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v twin
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so is it one inch with rider sat on it, ie book spec, no play but not in tension,and has anyone views on high spec chains, i have always stood by no play but not in tension, 5 times round the block and there is some slack.
OH,,sorry to any shafties out there.
 

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Gear whore
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Hoooly crap, it is like incredibly hard to comprehend what you are trying to say.

That being said, I've never checked my CCT. :rolleyes
 

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v twin
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ummmmm,, gee i think ye is right i just re-read me own post and it even confused me-self,and i havent been drinking,, should have said any views on chain tension.
 

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spooney is from ireland. read it with an irish accent and it'll be more coherent. :thumbup

I don't sit on my bike (or have anyone sit on it for me) when checking chain freeplay. I go by my manual...25-35mm from pressing up to down on the chain.

I check it whenever I feel like it...s'easy, just use my key to lift 'er up then push down and eyeball it.
 

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Registered Abuser
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the chain will warm up and expand after you have riden it for a while, hence the slack. I check it once a week.
 

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I am the liquor
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798 Posts
I check it every 3rd or 4th ride, by putting it on the race stand, putting it in gear (while it is off obviously), and tensioning the top of the chain by pushing my hand down on the rear tire. Then check the chain tension at the point the manual suggests, usually just in front of the rearset. If it is more than the suggested manual setting, I tighten it, but not more than the recommended manual setting. If it is too tight then it can affect the rear suspension from functioning properly in a very bad way. Its much better to have it too loose than too tight.
 

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Ridin' Dirty
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852 Posts
WHAT, nobody told me I had to check the tension on my chain...THERE'S A CHAIN!
 

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Good post Ripster. I've always thought the recommended freeplay seems a bit tight. I've noticed in photos of various types of race bikes that there seems to be a lot of chain slack. You can see the chain arc quite noticably on the lower (non-drive) side. It looks like if you measured those chains there would be a lot more than the 1 to 1 1/4 inch freeplay. Does anybody know what sort of freeplay they run , say on a GP bike? Is more freeplay better for rear swingarm movement? I guess the trade-off is drive lash. Any theories out there?
 

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Ya, whatever.
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669 Posts
Your chain needs to be adjusted so that there is no freeplay in it when the countershaft sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axel are in a straight line. This is the longest length your chain needs to travel through the usable suspension range. That is why manuals suggest getting someone to sit on it. I try to lean on my bike and pull up on the swing arm to get as close to this alignment as I can or load it up with rachetting tie downs to get ideal set up.

Spin your tire and check it a few times as your chain and sprockets can vary with wear and you want to be sure you were not at a slack point. Once you know your sweet spot, see how that relates to the speced freeplay when suspension is unweighted.
 

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v twin
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
cheers guys, some good tips there. to be sure to be sure.
 

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v twin
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Discussion Starter #11
or buy a shaft driven, problem solved. If ya likes beamers.
 

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Now accepting DONATIONS!
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425 Posts
Ripster said:
I check it every 3rd or 4th ride, by putting it on the race stand, putting it in gear (while it is off obviously), and tensioning the top of the chain by pushing my hand down on the rear tire. Then check the chain tension at the point the manual suggests, usually just in front of the rearset. If it is more than the suggested manual setting, I tighten it, but not more than the recommended manual setting. If it is too tight then it can affect the rear suspension from functioning properly in a very bad way. Its much better to have it too loose than too tight.

This is a great chain tensioning technique...only one modification if I will.

Chains wear over time. They develop tighter sections...that being said, before you put 'er in gear, spin the tire round and round, periodically checking tension for free play to determine the tightest section...then do as Ripster has pointed out!! GOLDEN EASY!!! Oh yeah, and if you don't start from the tightest location you run the risk of having a chain that's overtight and as mentioned, this is no good!!

Just my 2 bits!

Pete
 

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Thanks Sloan - that does make sense. I'll adjust it that way and see what the freeplay is when it's unloaded to compare to the specs in the book.
 

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Gear whore
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whoops, don't know why i said CCT...

I would say i check the tension once a month when i'm riding or so.

I've only had to adjust it once so far, so it's not bad.
 

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WHAT, nobody told me I had to check the tension on my chain...THERE'S A CHAIN!
It's about a 18" away from that other thing that no one looks at...the Owners Manual!
Now there's a place to see how to adjust your chain.....:rtfm

or buy a shaft driven, problem solved. If ya likes beamers
.
Speaking of Beemer shaft drives, don't they have a break down issue...the seal going south and the rear drive following shortly thereafter?:laughing
 
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kuldip said:
the chain will warm up and expand after you have riden it for a while, hence the slack. I check it once a week.
Same here, or after any huge blat.
 
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