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Discussion Starter #1
What a pain in the ass they are. No matter what I do I cannot get them to mount the way Human's do. They stick out at the front and are on an angle. Talk about frustration. If I ever get a new bike I an never doing this again. Or I will pay to have it professionaly done :mad
 

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Those lttle POS's of Human's had my brain on terminal meltdown. I still don't like the outcome. Too much of the old signal's mounting recess around those little ones.

I had much more luck with mine using the larger type like this
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I finally find a way to get around the mounting problem with some ingenius frabricating that I cant believe I thought off. Then the grand daddy of all probelms arises. On each end of the flush mounts there is a little screw. each scew whole has a metal thread thingy in it accept one. So as I am putting the lens back on to finish off one side the screw keeps turning and turning inside. Great, now one end is loose and not seating flush and water will be able to get in. I cant turn back either cause of modifying the stock rubber parts from the stock signals. This has really put me in one pissed off state of mind. Wonderful way to start a long weekend. I will probably have to buy new flushmounts cause of this.:firemad
 
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I had the same problem with mounting mine on my R6. I think that it is impossible to get the gap out unless you bend the back plate. On the R6messagenet there were some instructions on how to mount flushmounts which explained that you had to slightly bend the back plate to get them to follow the contour. I couldn't bend them so mine have a little gap to. It's really small and unnoticable though. I just wonder about moisture getting in there?

Here are those instructions:

To mount the LP Type I Flushmounts without drilling:
- I fabricated a backing plate using thin sheet metal, similar to the flushmounts' base plates. This plate will go inside the fairing to make a sandwich effect with the flushmount on the outside and the fairing in between. Make sure your hole in the inside plate lines up.
- Drill a single hole in the flushmount's base plate, right in front of the light bulb socket. Basically, in the middle of the flushmount. This is where the mounting screw will pass through to the other side. Use a flathead screw to avoid conflict with the bulb - about 1-3/4" long. Not very fat - like 1/8" or 3/16" is plenty.
- Drill another small hole, a little below center and just in front of the spot weld for the socket bracket. You'll need to pass the wiring through this one.
- Gently roll the flushmount base plate over something round like some PVC pipe or your mother's rolling pin. You want to get just a "slight" curve to the plate so it will contour nicely with the bodywork.
- Time to make a sandwich! Put it all together now. I used a nylock nut on the inside along with a fender washer. That allows me to crank it down tight so the signal doesn't slip and the nylock nut will prevent it from vibrating loose. I might tend to over-engineer things when it comes to fastener, but I just can't resist all the little buggers when I'm rummaging through the drawers in the fastener aisle at Lowe's.
- If you did it right, the center screw that hold the sandwich together will just poke through the hole that's in the black inner fairing trim panel.
- Put the bulb in, and treat it just like a car headlight - alcohol and no touching with your fingers.
- Install the lens housing and be sure not to crank the screws down to hard. You CAN crack the light housing if you do that
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh, hey Human, you left your army knife keys at my house last night. Hope you got in your house alright. I dont know what to do about these flushmounts. One of the screws on the other flush mount had the same problem as well but on the oposite end. I am wishing that I never even touched my signals now :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well it all worked out and the signals are finally on and working. Fairing is back on with help from Human, and Manny 3:16. Now I just have to install my big bore kit before the dyno day. He he just kidding :D

:rider
 

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Ryan R said:
Well it all worked out and the signals are finally on and working. Fairing is back on with help from Human, and Manny 3:16. Now I just have to install my big bore kit before the dyno day. He he just kidding :D

:rider


Big bore kit ? why you wanting to smoke Digi168's R1 ? comeon...it's brand new and he most likely paid some serious $$$ for it....lol :laughing maybe in a month's time....lol
 
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