[axle167]

My current battery YTX12-BS is dead and it's also a bit too tall because of a GSXR rear shock swap. I would like to use a smaller battery but the amps and CCA are not the same.

YTX12 - BS: 1.2 amps 180 CCA
YTZ14 - S: 1.1 amps 230 CCA

Would the YTZ14S be ok for a replacement.

There are other models with lower rating around 0.8 amps and 130 CCA. Would these batteries also be suitable?

Thanks for your input.

 

[TechyIam]

From looking at the Yuasa Motorcycle Battery Application chart, the primary concern would not be the electrical specifications since for both capacity and CCA, the YTZ14S is superior to the stock battery. In addition, the YTZ14S requires even less regular charging current (1.1A vs 1.2A means a tiny bit less taxing on the charging system). Furthermore, the battery post polarity locations are matching. So it should be all good here.

If the size of the YTZ14S is good, then the other main concern is the difference in terminal type between the two batteries. You basically need to double check to see whether the battery cables can be connected to the YTZ14S properly.

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/2010_yuasa_apps_specs.pdf

 

[TrueLies]

TechyIam:

You sure picked the right handle.

Let me ask you about the gel batteries. All hype and marketing? I think Odyessy is the only brand I've seen for motorcycles.

I had an Optima battery in my car and I was never happy with the fit. Without any real lab tests, I don't think it lives up to the technical claims either. 1 Optima = 3 Kirkland batteries at Costco. At the moment, I running on the Kirkland battery. The yellow top Optima is a spare. Don't know if it'll ever be back in.

It failed *and* passed a battery load test with some Snap-On tool. But it still works fine.
I don't think it charges properly with "smart" chargers. Deltran. Sears. Motomaster.
Never really charges up to 100%. In my estimation.
In the winter time, with the 75 amp alternator in my car, the voltage gauge moves a lot and bottoms very low.

I'm thinking of upgrading to a 130 amp alternator too.


I think I'm on topic. If not, sorry.

 

[axle167]

Thanks TechyIam for your input.

It turns out that the YTZ10S is twice as much as YTX12BS, so I stayed with the YTX12BS.

After installing the new batt, I noticed that at idle my lights would flicker between dimmer and brighter just like before when I had the dying batt. I use to just think that was because my batt was weak, but if it's still doing this with the new batt; does it mean there something else wrong?