[aznhonam]

Hey guys, I have a really newbie question about my bike. I'm a new rider and wanting to store my bike for the winter and was just wondering what kind of oil I should be using? I have an 05 Cbr RR with approx 2600 kms. I have the trickle charger, bike stand set up and the fuel stabilizer tasks completed thus far...

I went to Richmond Motorsport and their 10w-40 oil is like $7.50 for 1 litre vs like a Canadian Tire which is a lot cheaper.

My question is do I HAVE to have this oil rather than any other brand? Also is there a different type of oil for a motorcycle vs a car or are they pretty much the same?

Also when should I be using synth oil? Somebody told me when I got to the 6000 km range, is this accurate?

Thanks in advance for your help guys...

 

[lowlife]

DO NOT use car oil in your bike.... the additives in car oil can damage your clutch, stick to motorcycle oil, or if your really set on car oil since it's cheaper, do some research. Some car oils will work, stay away from anything that says "energy conserving". Or to be safe just buy the motorcycle oil... personally, I like the Motul semi-synthetic, yes it's more expensive, but I like to use good stuff... I think my bikes are worth it.

TeeTee or others will chime in with all the tech talk on specific oils, since I don't feel like typing it all out here, and someone else will tell you to do a search since this topic has been beaten to death, there is enough info out there on oil to keep you reading for days....

 

[5thgear]

Do it right and drop in Amsoil it's the best stuff going. Stop shopping at RMS there retarded expensive.

 

[REVELATIONS]

+1 for Amsoil (bike oil)

If it were my bike, id wait until abot 6000kms or so for the synthetic stuff however.

 

[adiabatic]

I'm a new rider and wanting to store my bike for the winter and was just wondering what kind of oil I should be using?

Since we're talking storage... I got the cheapest Cdn Tire oil I could find (something like $10 for 4L) that did not have additives/modifiers. It happened to be 10W-30. No biggie close enough... it's just so I can store the bike with clean oil.

In the spring I'll change it out with some better grade motorcycle oil after I burn through the tank of stabilized gas.

 

[aznhonam]

Hi guys thanks for your help. So with my bike at 2600 kms what kind of oil do you suggest me using (not synth). Where can I get it from and such?

Thanks again...

 

[SkydiveSonic]

I have deja vu ....

 

[gsxr_45]

Drop the crap oil in the spring , get some amsoil at the bike show full syn. for like 130 a case , i get mine there every year .how can you go wrong .

 

[Tigon]

the best thing to do is forget about putting cheap oil in and change it out when the season starts. use a good oil period!!!! i usually change the oil just before i decide to store the bike and leave it in there and do a complete oil and filter change when i bring the bike out. why go through the hassle of always changing from cheap crap to good stuff!! doesn't make sense and it is a real waste of money and time. do it right the first time!! rant over!!!

 

[5thgear]

Drop the crap oil in the spring , get some amsoil at the bike show full syn. for like 130 a case , i get mine there every year .how can you go wrong .

+There you go. We'll see you at the bike show AMSOIL is running out of our booth this year.

You can run synthetic right away. Your bike is completely broken in during the first few heat cycles. There is no such thing as break in I don't care what oil company literature you read.

Think about it piece by moving piece of a modern day engine:

PISTON , aluminum with carbon based rings that don't wear out

CYLINDERS : there plated now a days not cast iron like 50 years ago.

CON ROD BEARINGS : lubed at factory there precision built to micro tolerances . If they ever show sign of wear there fucked.

CRANK BEARINGS : There bearings for christ sakes perfectly round do not need break in.

VALVES : modern bikes are titanium or stainless with harden valve seats. The oil using has ZERO effect on valve face seating. The oil only lubricates the valve springs/ seals.


The only thing that wrecks engines is heat. So warm up the bike before you ride and run the best oil possible ( AMSOIL) and change it often. DIRT in Synthetic or regular oil is still dirt. So change often.

This message has been brought to you by guys who really build engines for a living and don't give a shit what your manufacturer is going to use as an excuse to void your warrenty.

 

[GSP]

the best thing to do is forget about putting cheap oil in and change it out when the season starts. use a good oil period!!!! i usually change the oil just before i decide to store the bike and leave it in there and do a complete oil and filter change when i bring the bike out. why go through the hassle of always changing from cheap crap to good stuff!! doesn't make sense and it is a real waste of money and time. do it right the first time!! rant over!!!

I'd change it before putting the bike away for the winter, but I wouldn't bother dumping it again in the spring--just a waste of $$.

 

[aznhonam]

Thanks for your help guys, really thinking about Amsoil. When is the bike show? =)

(Like I said, total newb Haha)

 

[gsxr_45]

Second or third weekend in jan. ,amsoil girls are HOT .

 

[mascu]

lol aznhonam, i'm roughly very similar to you

where is the bike show?=P

or even better, can you provide us with some sort of website that gives all the details on the bike show

thanks

 

[FiSh_Extreme]

i use oil from mohawk. lol it's true

 

[bradige]

LINK TO BIKE SHOW-->


http://www.sportshows.ca/VanCycle/visitor.htm

 

[Stewy]

+1 for Amsoil. Mine's stored with fresh oil, all ready for spring. Come on nice weather!

 

[Duck]

+There you go. We'll see you at the bike show AMSOIL is running out of our booth this year.

You can run synthetic right away. Your bike is completely broken in during the first few heat cycles. There is no such thing as break in I don't care what oil company literature you read.

Think about it piece by moving piece of a modern day engine:

PISTON , aluminum with carbon based rings that don't wear out

CYLINDERS : there plated now a days not cast iron like 50 years ago.

CON ROD BEARINGS : lubed at factory there precision built to micro tolerances . If they ever show sign of wear there fucked.

CRANK BEARINGS : There bearings for christ sakes perfectly round do not need break in.

VALVES : modern bikes are titanium or stainless with harden valve seats. The oil using has ZERO effect on valve face seating. The oil only lubricates the valve springs/ seals.


The only thing that wrecks engines is heat. So warm up the bike before you ride and run the best oil possible ( AMSOIL) and change it often. DIRT in Synthetic or regular oil is still dirt. So change often.

This message has been brought to you by guys who really build engines for a living and don't give a shit what your manufacturer is going to use as an excuse to void your warrenty.

IF that isn't a reason to stop going to RMS and go to 5th gear instead then you need your head examined. 5th gear knows their shit and actually takes the time to help educate. Awesome dudes awesome shop.

 

[newbster_rider]

Its awesome that there is so many ppl willing to help the newbs out. I Gotta appreciate everyone at BCSB and 5th gear for all their help.

 

[Machinist]

Oil Change !!!!

Change out your oil When you store the Bike , Leaveing used oil in your CrankCase all winter is not a good thing, Used oil has a lot of Combustibles in it that can cause corrosion and sludge build up , ** AMSOIL ** is Great oil .
I Have also used the MOTUL semi Synthetic it does a good job as well and is less expensive.I Also change My oil Filter at each oil Change , some say it's not Necessary, but for the Cost of a Filter I think it's good insurance for your High Preformance Sport Bike Engine .:flashy