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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna take her out of storage soon so should I change the oil right away? is there anything else that needs to be done?

btw, I'm actually glad it's snowing since i don't have to envy people who already started riding heh:p
 

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Just Another Enthusiast
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If you are going to change the oil, just make sure you get the engine nice and hot first, this will help gather up all the gunk and then when you drain the oil while still hot, most of the crap will go with it. :)
 

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vrecksler said:
If you are going to change the oil, just make sure you get the engine nice and hot first, this will help gather up all the gunk and then when you drain the oil while still hot, most of the crap will go with it. :)
I not sure about that, the old oil is already in your crank case. You dont wanna use the old oil in your engine again. I am not 100% sure maybe phone a honda dealership, they would know
 

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Super Moderator
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aren't you suppose to drain the oil before you put you bike away in storage??
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Canadian_Gixxer said:
aren't you suppose to drain the oil before you put you bike away in storage??
yeah, there was a lot of crap i neglected to do before storage...didn't even remember to add the fuel stabilizer! i should really start treating her better...
 

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Dez said:


yeah, there was a lot of crap i neglected to do before storage...didn't even remember to add the fuel stabilizer! i should really start treating her better...
well, you could always do a double oil change, drain the oil, put new oil in, warm it up, and drain again and put new stuff in again.... but that might be a big inconvience.... but I would call the dealer and see what they recommend first.
 

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I would think if you were to warm her up real nice, let her cool down, then warm her up again, that should really get the grit flowing with the oil, and then drain her. I'd also say one oil change should do the trick. I too neglected to do any 'winter maintence', I did however start her up at least once every 2 weeks and run her for a while. And shuffle around her tires so they woudln't get hard spots on 'em.
 

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I second the "just drain it cold" philosophy. Just pull the plug and give it an hour or so while you do some other stuff or go watch a movie. It takes longer when it's cold because it's thick but it'll come out just fine and bring all the crud with it.
 

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Team Modern Racing
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Generally I change the oil before I put it away for winter, but this year I decided to leave it until the spring (whenever it gets here). I'm not going to warm it up though; it's been sitting in my apartment since November all the oil has collected in the bottom of the pan so what better time to change it. I'm also going to pour in about 1/4 liter with the drain plug out, just to get any residue left behind. That's my 2 cents worth.
 

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Premium Member
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spero probably has a good idea. Ages ago when I used to work for Mr. Lube, we used to dump oil through the engine sometimes to clean 'em out a bit.

And Bruce, I warmed up my engine to about 80, and shut her down and drainer her. And I drained it for about an hour and a half (had to go drop the wife off somewhere), came back and it was still coming out!! :eek
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the tips...i guess the consensus is to change the oil! Only problem is i don't know how to change the oil myself so would it be alright if i just ride it around for a bit and then take it to the shop? better yet, why don't we have a "oil changing meet". haha ;) :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dez said:
thanks for the tips...i guess the consensus is to change the oil! Only problem is i don't know how to change the oil myself so would it be alright if i just ride it around for a bit and then take it to the shop? better yet, why don't we have a "oil changing meet". haha ;) :D


Yup !!! we can bring some food and have a barbeque too !!!!!
hahahahahahaa !!!!!!!! thats so gay dez !! :laughing
 

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Weed smoker: if you're new to working on your bike, I strongly suggest you buy a shop manual - best $30-60 you'll spend on the bike, as it will save you in the future with various maintenance issues.
As for the oil and oil changing, if it's been sitting with dirty oil for a while, be aware that oil does become acidic with the contaminants it is designed to suspend, etc., you want to change it out as soon as possible, and if it is quite dirty, change it again soon after. Depending on your flavor, you may consider using a (relatively) cheaper oil such as Penzoil or Castrol 10w40 (motorcycle specific), then change it shortly after with either the same, or a pricier oil as per your preferences... but stick with a decent oil filter such as an OEM one, puralator, or ? DO NOT use Fram filters. - very poor construction. Next year, you may consider changing it with car oil before storage, then change it again after storage with bike stuff - it does react with the less than perfect conditions in your engine, and simply because you haven't put mileage on, it doesn't mean you can go for another 3-4000k with it. Good Luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cheaper oil such as Penzoil or Castrol 10w40
Highly recommend AGAINST Penzoil, .. its a paraphin (sp?) wax based oil,.. meaning it coats everything in a thin wax like layer which is why its so slippery,.. the downside is over time the wax layer builds up leaving a perminant brown tinge on everything and starts to collect material!, Would definatly recommend any other oil..

Just my .02
 

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The golden rule of oil changes: If you're thinking it may be time to change, IT IS! You can't change your oil too often. For the few bux that it costs, it's the best protection your enging can get. nd there aren't really any bad oils, just cheaper and less fashionable, as long as they're SAE recommended you'll be fine. Just remember to wait until about 6,000-8,000 before even starting to think about synthetic oil and start with a semi-synthetic
 

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Jackie Chan's stuntdouble
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Lugan said:
Weed smoker: if you're new to working on your bike, I strongly suggest you buy a shop manual - best $30-60 you'll spend on the bike,
I was going to get a shop manual for my bike. Until I found out they cost $190.
 

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Sorry to hear of Honda's method of helping their service departments. Try looking for a Clymer's shop manual- aftermarket, but sometimes better than the OEM ones.

Back to the oil debate though, what oils are people using? Any relatively cheap source for higher dollar oils?
 

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Lugan said:
what oils are people using?
Right now, I'm using the Penzoil 10/40 that RMS service the bikes with, but after 6,000km I'll switch to Honda Gold Label. It's 'spensive but it's good and gives me peace of mind. I'll wait a while to use full synth.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was going to get a shop manual for my bike. Until I found out they cost $190.
Who is quoting you that much? I can get my service manual direct from honda for $60 bux,.. just look in the back of your owners manual it should have an order form,.. and i have a new 2k1 i can't see yours costing more than that..
 
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