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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I recently bought a Shorai lithium ion battery for my 675 Street Triple: http://www.baysideperformance.ca/in...t_info&manufacturers_id=257&products_id=31301

It turns out my R/R was on recall and the battery died on me due to this.

I am trying to figure out if it is safe to put it on one of my battery tenders?

I have a 'Snap-on' tender that has STD AGM and GEL modes as well as 6v and 12v.

The other tender is just a basic one that I've used for my old Kawasaki 250.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah ok. I don't see that on the tender anywhere but i'll make sure to read the manual first just in case :)

-Thanks!
 

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You should use the Shoria tenders or they tend to fuck up the batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm sorry i have one more question as i am going to go forward with trying out my regular tender. It has the mode STD / AGM / GEL. Anyone know which mode would be correct to use since i am using it on a lithium ion type?

thanks in advance.
 

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Fixxa of 2-wheeled beasts
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to my knowledge, any standard 12V charger will work that doesnt have desulfation mode or an automatic cut off mode. Also, by nature of the Li batteries, you must balance the cells or at least monitor them every other time your charge. If one cell dips below the allowance, can ruin the batt. You can use the optimate 6 Li charger that auto balance without the use of the port, or, I use my R/C car Li charger that lets me select type of Li batt, # of cells, timer, charging amperage, blah blah.
 

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From N00bie to Wannabe
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Why not ask edmondsbattery?
 

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as one who has been through this a couple of times with two different bikes.. i will save you the trouble.. FORGET the battery tender (read on)

take it in to Edmondsbattery (keeping it overnight) and see if they can plug it into their SHORAI charger, they will be able to tell you based on beeps or flashing lights,
if it is toast.. yes it is possible to completely kill these batteries with a busted R/R.. just ask my dad..

now, if the shorai charger brings it back to life as it did mine (dead starter motor almost killed it, draining too much current for a while) then you have
nothing to worry about.... I would seriously consider a SHORAI charger for your own personal use... it can rectify the cells internally and add to
the years of service, as well as have the battery put into storage mode during winter which will bring its temperature down n' make it last longer.

if the charger does not bring it back to life then you can send it to Shorai and they will try to do so with their own gizmo... if they bring it back
to life, then it costs you nothing and they send it back.. if it doent they'll allow you to trade up to a new one, its a pro-rated charge.. well worth it :thumbup

DO NOT BOTHER WITH A BATTERY TENDER!! specially if you've killed it... IT IS NOT capable of bringing it back to ~14.3V which is what it needs!!

the battery tender will only charge it up to 13.25V where it idles (tender that is), that is not enough for these batteries, and is not considered a full charge... all you will do is heat it up for no reason

Why not ask edmondsbattery?
yup. i took mine in, and promptly bought a SHORAI charger, using my BCIT discount :laughing
 

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I ruined my first shorai by using my regular tender. I don't understand why you would ask a question then ignore the advice???
 

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actually i should clarify here, SHORAI does say the Battery Tender JR i have works for these batteries, it does not have a desulfation mode ..

now... the issue here is OP has drained it beyond 50% which is a complete NO NO! with these... so the tender will do absolutely nothing, it does charge
UP to 14.x Volts but it cannot idle up there so it comes back down to 13.x V which is where your battery is when you unplug it... NOT a complete charge.

ONLY a Shorai charger OR Shorai themselves can bring these puppies back to life... :happysq :fact!

I use my R/C car Li charger that lets me select type of Li batt, # of cells, timer, charging amperage, blah blah.
interesting.. i would hope there would be more of these chargers become available, i'm happy with the shorai version, i just put it back on from
storage mode, now full charge, a month or two before i go back on the road... just to be safe..
 

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Well, I'd chime in here, but it looks like everything has been perfectly covered! :thumbup

...except one thing. After we charge with the Shorai charger, we also have a special tester for Shorai batteries that will tell us any variances between cells, the total capacity, state of charge and health.

If you use an RC grade charger, make sure it's set to LiFePo4, and not LiPo.
 

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Picked up my new Li battery for the race bike , thanks Edmonds , figure I can brake 3-1/2 inches later due to the weight savings
 

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I ruined my first shorai by using my regular tender. I don't understand why you would ask a question then ignore the advice???
What do you expect?

The bike had an electrical problem that was diagnosed by placing a lithium ion battery in, which killed it too... and now why not ruin that with your battery tender to complete the cycle of full on "duh".
 

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We slapped a red lithium ion (can't remember brand was about $200 bucks) into buddy's 2010 BMW F650GS. Guess we got a dud. Didn't have any poop to start the bike and got all kinds of errors as charging system was over-volting. Prob series connection issue inside the battery.

Personally I just get the $40 delivered reg batteries on ebay. My oldest is 10yrs old and going strong. Every bike, atv, etc I own has a battery tender JR on it and plug in religiously after every ride. That's your ticket to battery survival. That and bring it inside over winter.

True lithium ions die when you drain them completely. They generally like about 3.7v per cell. Lower than 3.3 or so and permanent damage results. Same thing if you over-volt more than about 4.3-4.4 volts.

Lithium ion batteries need to have internal battery management circuitry otherwise you're playing russian roulette (ie fire/explosion).

My bro-in-law has a Scion xB converted to 100% electric in 2007. Has over 5000 lithium ion cells in it. Had the battery packs out a few times on that one. 400vdc at 400A packs some power. 150kw AC motor controller. Goes like hell.

Lithium iron are a different story, not sure about those. Better price point than lithium ion but much heavier.
 

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We slapped a red lithium ion (can't remember brand was about $200 bucks) into buddy's 2010 BMW F650GS. Guess we got a dud. Didn't have any poop to start the bike and got all kinds of errors as charging system was over-volting. Prob series connection issue inside the battery.

Personally I just get the $40 delivered reg batteries on ebay. My oldest is 10yrs old and going strong. Every bike, atv, etc I own has a battery tender JR on it and plug in religiously after every ride. That's your ticket to battery survival. That and bring it inside over winter.

True lithium ions die when you drain them completely. They generally like about 3.7v per cell. Lower than 3.3 or so and permanent damage results. Same thing if you over-volt more than about 4.3-4.4 volts.

Lithium ion batteries need to have internal battery management circuitry otherwise you're playing russian roulette (ie fire/explosion).

My bro-in-law has a Scion xB converted to 100% electric in 2007. Has over 5000 lithium ion cells in it. Had the battery packs out a few times on that one. 400vdc at 400A packs some power. 150kw AC motor controller. Goes like hell.

Lithium iron are a different story, not sure about those. Better price point than lithium ion but much heavier.
If your current battery is 10 years old, replace it. Its not "going strong" -it just isn't. What it IS, doing is over stressing your electrical system and burning out your stator. Between the tender and the stator, your battery is in a state of surface charge -that doesn't mean its good. As soon as that surface charge dissipates (wont take long on an old battery) you'll be calling a tow truck.
And lets all stop lumping Lithium Ion, and Lithium Iron Phosphate into the same category. They are completely different animals due to their different cathodes.
 

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Reviving a thread (I was looking specifically for information on the Shorai and found it!). Recently bought a bike with a Shorai battery and charger so had to read up on it. Found the battery charging cable was NFG and was causing error codes on the charger. Edmonds Batteries had the cable and all is working well.
The point? The Shorai battery is pretty impressive and does not work like the others. Read all the instructions and guides. And I highly recommend buying the charger... Also BIG thanks to Edmonds Batteries for being helpful.
 
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