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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike has a soft front brake it's been like that since i got it and i finally looked into fixing it. I bled the lines no bubbles and it's still soft. Then i took all the fluid out and filled the lines, bled them all the bubbles were gone in both the master cyl and the caliper it's still soft. The bike is an 86 with no metal lines. Could it be the line or the master cly that's ca:imwithstu using the squish.
 

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My bike has a soft front brake it's been like that since i got it and i finally looked into fixing it. I bled the lines no bubbles and it's still soft. Then i took all the fluid out and filled the lines, bled them all the bubbles were gone in both the master cyl and the caliper it's still soft. The bike is an 86 with no metal lines. Could it be the line or the master cly that's ca:imwithstu using the squish.
if it's that old the calipers could be gummed with dirt or old brake fluid, the master could be gummed up with old brake fluid or the edges of the rubber slider in the master could be nicked/worn.
try cleaning the master out, and at the same time check the edges of the rubber sliders, they should be sharp and without nicks.
If that doesn't work take a look at the caliper, might even just be the pads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
might want to look into changing the lines. if they are original, they are way past due changing. they will bulge when pressure is applied to them. new ones obviously don't have that problem.
 

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Yep, old lines. The OEM's are better these days but those old ones were only so-so even when new compared to the OEM's these days. While you've got it all apart you may want to invest in the cost of new seals for the whole setup. These tend to get old and hard from age and heat.

But a total rebuild and lines is a fair amount of money for an older bike. You planning on trading up any time in the near future? If so perhaps just save it. If you're in love with the machine and plan on keeping it for another season or two then spend the bucks.
 

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maybe you could get a set of OEM brake lines from someone who's upgraded to braided lines and find a master cylinder/ lever from ebay and then replace that portion.

But check into making sure your fittings will work and you'll be able to mount it to your handle bar.
 

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before you go running out for new lines though try putting one hand on the line while you squeeze the brake lever, if you can't feel it expand then it's not a big issue
i'd much rather check out the condition of the master and caliper before i went out spending money, doing proper maintenance is free
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yep the brake line expands that was one of the first things i checked. i priced it out at honda they want $260 for the line. any suggestions on making my own line. the pads are like new but i haven't torn down the cyls to look at the seals yet. thanks for the help any suggestions are appreciated
 

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We make lines , stop going to big dealers man you drive an old bike.

Try this tonight it's the best trick ever. Strap the brake lever with a zip strap right to the handle bar and let it sit over night. 99% of the time it works mint. If it doesn't work your leaking past the masters which is about $30 a rebuild kit.
 

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Had the same problem with an old Honda. Bled it, scrubbed the pads, replaced the pads, no noticeable change. Didn't replace the lines though. Didn't know Bill at that time either.
 

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Oh it works OK. The idea is that the pressure makes any airbubbles in the lines smaller through compression and being smaller they can float up to the master cylinder easier where they'll burp out the pickup hole and into the reservoir. It may happen right away or it may take a short bit of riding after you go back out.

Or it may just be the lines getting spongy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
borderline, you beat me to that trick.

my bikes old too, and i dropped 80 bucks on a set of hh pads, but my brakes are still to weak for my liking. they are braided lines though.

would it likely be seized calipers? or master cylinder? they are strong enough, but no initial braking. the lever goes really far before any reaction.
 
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