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Just ordered a case (4, 4 litre jugs) of my fave oil for $7.60 litre from my local PetroCan bulk dealer.
Duron E Synthetic 10/40. Classified as "suitable" for JasoMa.
Still a good bang for the buck, high spec 10/40
I've been using Duron oils for about 10 years in a variety of bikes. I think every bike I've owned called for 10/40.
 

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Just ordered a case (4, 4 litre jugs) of my fave oil for $7.60 litre from my local PetroCan bulk dealer.
Duron E Synthetic 10/40. Classified as "suitable" for JasoMa.
Still a good bang for the buck, high spec 10/40
I've been using Duron oils for about 10 years in a variety of bikes. I think every bike I've owned called for 10/40.
That price is loads cheaper than the royal purple I am burning.

You think there is enough advantage to burning less expensive oil?

Folks following receive less cancer causing agents perhaps?
 

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what the hells with all the oil threads getting dragged up out of the bottom of the BCSB ocean today?
With new oil threads being locked out so quickly, I figured there must be ones on here that are not locked. With the information people are looking for?
 

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I just bought a 97 Kawasaki ZX9R and did my first oil change as well as changed the sparkplugs. I am an automotive mechanic and I get to use my shop discount to get oil. I used Lucas 20W50 Full Synthetic oil and Iridium Spark plugs. I got the oil for $10/Ltr. as opposed to $18/ltr at Canadian Tire. For $40 I'm gonna stick to Lucas Synthetic. Haven't noticed any difference in performance but it's not for me to notice, the oils for the engine.
 

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Buying oil in the USA

So I just bought 4.4l of Mobil 1 0W20 Full synthetic. The oil seems to be more pricey than the rest $48. Then I checked the US Wallmart and its $24.97 for 5 quarts. Any thoughts. Am I missing something because I'm thinking I need to return this and make an early trip to Bellingham.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Assuming you have a wet clutch, make sure the oil is rated for such and does NOT have the friction modifiers.

I just replaced a clutch recently and think that's exactly what caused it to burn out......car oil.

All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles that specify the JASO-MB specification. If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, We recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle.
 

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So I just bought 4.4l of Mobil 1 0W20 Full synthetic. The oil seems to be more pricey than the rest $48. Then I checked the US Wallmart and its $24.97 for 5 quarts. Any thoughts. Am I missing something because I'm thinking I need to return this and make an early trip to Bellingham.
Yeah, I hope this is for your car. 0W20 definitely has friction modifier additives, not good at all for wet clutches in bikes. And, IMO, 10W40 is the absolute minimum viscosity I'd ever put in a motorcycle engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I'm going to put this thread in the "BIG OIL THREAD", where it belongs, but if you wanted an inexpensive oil, synthetic,
which is available in the US Walmarts, but also on competitively when on sale at Canadian Tire, and extremely proven
in motorcycles, the Shell Rotella T6, 5/40 is around the same price:

 

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Honda/Full Synthetic vers Semi or Dyno Oil

Actually this refers to the BlacKBird but maybe all Hondas. The Brits swear by no full synthetic in the Bird. My closest friend rides a Bird and is blowing a bit of blue smoke. The local tech said its cause of full synthetic. I call BS. Have any Honda riders encountered an official bulletin from Honda re Synthetic Oil in their bike? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414371354.319764.jpg
 

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my old man has run synthetic on his VTX1800, it should be mentioned he had an issue with the starter clutch go bad but it seems
to be pretty common on that model as i found similar threads online and most of them had not run anything but semi synth or oem oil..

i've got several friends who have owned different bikes from honda and yamaha and they always run T6 Rotella Shell Synthetic heavy duty 5w40, it is tested and certified JASOMA & JASOMA2..

i have used it all season on my R1 and im very happy with it... this winter oil change on both VTX1800 Trike & R1 will see Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic :coffee

i ran MOtul 5100 last year and i hated the gear-shifts, very clunky and far from smooth i did not like it one bit, specially considering what the bloody stuff costs..

i ran Amsoil synthetic b4 but its too damn expensive... i didnt have any negative experiences with it though...
 

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my old man has run synthetic on his VTX1800, it should be mentioned he had an issue with the starter clutch go bad but it seems
to be pretty common on that model as i found similar threads online and most of them had not run anything but semi synth or oem oil..

i've got several friends who have owned different bikes from honda and yamaha and they always run T6 Rotella Shell Synthetic heavy duty 5w40, it is tested and certified JASOMA & JASOMA2..

i have used it all season on my R1 and im very happy with it... this winter oil change on both VTX1800 Trike & R1 will see Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic :coffee

i ran MOtul 5100 last year and i hated the gear-shifts, very clunky and far from smooth i did not like it one bit, specially considering what the bloody stuff costs..

i ran Amsoil synthetic b4 but its too damn expensive... i didnt have any negative experiences with it though...
I use 5100 on my dizzer and it shifts a lot smoother than OEM Full synthetic Kawasaki oil.
 
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