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Actually this refers to the BlacKBird but maybe all Hondas. The Brits swear by no full synthetic in the Bird. My closest friend rides a Bird and is blowing a bit of blue smoke. The local tech said its cause of full synthetic. I call BS. Have any Honda riders encountered an official bulletin from Honda re Synthetic Oil in their bike?
I noticed that semi-synthetic seemed to burn less than full synthetic or full dino on the vstrom. Ran Motul 5100 as the semi-synthetic.

As for the Rotella T6, I had very buttery smooth shifts on the GSX-R and the ZX10 and it also slightly lowered their running temps.
 

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For both the RC51 and the VFR1200 the service manuals stipulate GN4. That's a plain dino oil.
ditto for the CB1000R. however, I use Motul 5100: no issues, zero consumption, smooth shifts and light clutch...
the manual also specifies 12,000 km oil change intervals, but I just can't bring myself to run it that long, so I do 8000's.
 

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not the case on the R1, heard the same thing from others who have tried it... smoothest shifting i get is with T6... not even Amsoil can touch that shite....
Im going to have tro give this a try ext season, My r6 shifts not too bad, but could be a bit nicer...
But its more likely to be worn out gearbox, Its an older R6
 

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Im going to have tro give this a try ext season, My r6 shifts not too bad, but could be a bit nicer...
But its more likely to be worn out gearbox, Its an older R6
ohh i remember my 05 R6 had a crazy gearshift clunk to it... i think i ran motul back then cant really remember but it was a semi-synth...

As for the Rotella T6, I had very buttery smooth shifts on the GSX-R and the ZX10 and it also slightly lowered their running temps.
yup, i like it.. dunno if i've noticed that much reduced temps i can attribute to oil alone but i've messed with things so much this year its hard to know where it all comes from... but yeh my running temps on avg are lower

i stick with one type of oil/filter for a full year before i decide if i wanna continue running it.. i just picked up 3 more galons of the T6 slick stuff :D
i drop it every 6500 kms...

ditto for the CB1000R. however, I use Motul 5100: no issues, zero consumption, smooth shifts and light clutch...
the manual also specifies 12,000 km oil change intervals, but I just can't bring myself to run it that long, so I do 8000's.
when i was running 5100 (semi-synth) i dropped it every 4.5k to 5k kms or so... i cant imagine going 12k on that... i vary oil change times depending on if its semisynth or full synth... the latter lasting longer



on the cager we use this German full Synthetic oil my old man gets for the shop, i change it every 8k kms and its bloody awesome... always feel a kick in the pants difference in how it drives... smooth, love it..
 

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ohh i remember my 05 R6 had a crazy gearshift clunk to it... i think i ran motul back then cant really remember but it was a semi-synth...



yup, i like it.. dunno if i've noticed that much reduced temps i can attribute to oil alone but i've messed with things so much this year its hard to know where it all comes from... but yeh my running temps on avg are lower

i stick with one type of oil/filter for a full year before i decide if i wanna continue running it.. i just picked up 3 more galons of the T6 slick stuff :D
i drop it every 6500 kms...



when i was running 5100 (semi-synth) i dropped it every 4.5k to 5k kms or so... i cant imagine going 12k on that... i vary oil change times depending on if its semisynth or full synth... the latter lasting longer


.
,y r6 is an 04, im running motul 5100 in it right now.. Im going to use up the last bit i have left, store it, drop it next spring and use the t6 stuff.
 

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Step by step:
1)open owners manual
2)find maintenance page
3)check what it says there.

Honda engineers designes the engine with certain oil in mind, and they probably know more about it than anyone here.
 

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,y r6 is an 04, im running motul 5100 in it right now.. Im going to use up the last bit i have left, store it, drop it next spring and use the t6 stuff.
you would be better advised to swap oil before storing, been doing that for years... i wouldnt keep old oil sitting in there for 6 months.. yuck

Honda engineers designes the engine with certain oil in mind, .
ummhh, not quite; honda like most manufacturers purchase oil from whatever manufacturer offers 'em the best deal, n' they slap a sticker on it calling it theirs...

there are standards set forth on what oils are safe to run on a motorycle equipped with a wet clutch system, honda did not create these specifications
any more than Yammi or Kawi; as long as the oil you are using is JASO MA & JASO MA2 certified and tested, its safe to use on 4stroke motorcycle engines (wet clutch & catalytic converter equipped)

JASO MB being the exception as listed below (used on HD & BMW motorcycles)

oil manufacturers must pay a fee to have their oils tested in order to be able to carry the certification and have it listed on their labels, Shell has chosen not to create a separate product (cost saving on multiple labels, bottle packaging to market) specifically for motorcycles as their T6 synthetic oil already meets said requirements, it has always met JASO MA certification and afaik they submitted their Oil to JASO a few years back in order that they may also list its JASO MA2 certification on the bottle itself.... JASO carries a list of oils which have been tested as well

What does the JASO MA and JASO MA2 Motorcycle Oil Standard Mean?

In 1998 the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (or JASO for short) developed a grading system for motorcycle oils.

The grading system measured (amongst other things) an oils ability to resist clutch friction (or slippage), protection offered against engine wear and pitting in the gear box.

Up to 1998 car oils had been used as the base for many motorcycle oils. As car technology evolved over the years the oils that cars needed changed and additives were added that weren’t good for motorcycle engines (especially motorbike clutches and gearboxes, mainly due to the fact that, unlike most motorcycles, cars use a separate oil for the gearbox).

Car oils had been blended using more and more friction modifiers, which, although good for cars, wasn’t too good for motorcycles as these modifiers can cause clutches to slip at higher revs and gearbox pitting.

JASO introduced 2 ratings for 4 stroke motorcycle oils:

JASO MA – This was the standard for single unit engines where the wet clutch, gearbox and engine used the same oil. JASO-MA oils don’t contain friction modifiers.

JASO MB – This lower standard was for bikes that use separate oils for the engine, clutch and gearbox (e.g Harley Davidson’s and BMW’s).

Then in 2006 JASO introduced…..

JASO-MA2 – This specification was introduced in 2006 for modern motorcycle engines. As well as being a higher standard of oil the JASO-MA2 approval means the oil is suitable for use in bikes with catalytic converts in the exhaust system.
 

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I was thinking more oil weight and synth vs semi vs regular specific to the bike and internals.

For example, later years rsv4 have different oil requirements compared to the earlier models.
 

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I was thinking more oil weight and synth vs semi vs regular specific to the bike and internals.

For example, later years rsv4 have different oil requirements compared to the earlier models.
ahhh, okay yeh when it comes to weights of oil yes some bikes do tend to work best with what the manufacturer recommends...
 

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Thank you lads for the information. Should I drop the oil in my Bird for winter storage, it has only been ridden 1,000 kms this season b/c of my battle. My friend replaced the oil with Dyno and said he'll ride it for a season or so. He spends more time riding his KTM in the dirt and only does a couple to 3,000 kms a season on the Bird these days. It isn't a ton of blue smoke, just on start up. Although he tells me the tech said his compression is down. I suggested he find a tech he likes, ask for a winter rate, yes it's a bit cheap and cheeky, order parts from Partzilla and ship them to his summer cottage in Oroville and supply the shop. Or do it himself cause he likes that sort of thing. Is it top end or the whole engine. Regardless please don't shite on me because of my suggestion to him. I had a lot of work done by and very good tech in Dec/Jan and bought almost all of the parts from Partzilla. The Can. $ was almost par at that time. I will switch to Rottella into my Bird.
 

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I don't use Motul, too high ash count, too expensive for it's independent rating against other full ester synthetics. Buy the best. http://bestsynthetic-motorcycle-oil.com/amsoil_motocycle/amsoil_motocycle.html
I used to run Amsoil 10/40 but it's quite expensive. Now I feel I have a small dilemma, Amsoil or Rotella? I`ve never run Rotella in my Bird. The bike has 210,000 trouble free kms and I plan on much more riding next season. I`ve never had engine issues and the compression is fine. On the way to Starbucks anyone can pass me just not on the inside. Poor bike, has not been over 7,000 rpm for awhile.
 

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For anyone that's interested, Rotella T6 synth is on sale at Canadian Tire this week 'till Thursday. $42.00 per 5 litre jug.
 

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i dont get it. i really dont.

amsoil is 50 bux a gallon on their site. if it gives you trouble free bike, how much are you really going to save per oil change? 210000 km would have cost you 2100 in oil every 5k km. say if you buy oil that is now 30 bux per jug, over the same number of km it is 1260. saving 840 dollars vs having peace of mind over ... 12 years of ownership (assuming you were the first owner)... you'd spend more at squabux.

that is assuming the bike goes to 420000 with you on it.
 

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.... but Amsoil is appox $20 a liter when bought like most folks do... so that is twice the cost of something like Rotella...

Each person justifies where and how they spend their money in their own way.
 

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.... but Amsoil is appox $20 a liter when bought like most folks do... so that is twice the cost of something like Rotella...

Each person justifies where and how they spend their money in their own way.
Rotella T (dino/diesel) is about $24 for 5 litres, I just change it every 3000 km or so (once a season lol), makes for silky smooth shifting. Motul was not very good for a busa engine IMO, massive clunks 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I've never met a bad review for Rotella T, even by racers.

Each bike likes their own brand of oil in my opinion....
 
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