Check out and pick up in store to avoid shipping fees
Here's my breakdown from receipt:
Order Summary
Product Subtotal: $22.99
Discounts: -$6.90
Shipping Charges: $0.00
Total: $16.09
Check out and pick up in store to avoid shipping fees
Here's my breakdown from receipt:
Order Summary
Product Subtotal: $22.99
Discounts: -$6.90
Shipping Charges: $0.00
Total: $16.09
Went to CT and all they had was Motorcycle Mobile 1 10w40 synthetic in the 1L bottles (I actually need 5w40). Unfortunately they didn't have anything else.
Do people use that Rotella engine oil in their bikes? I've always used Dino oil or semi synthetic for my other bikes and never had a problem, but the K1300R is in a different class than what I've owned before.....
I've seen it at CT for a decent price, during oil sales. Good prices on car oil as well. I've seen this oil for sale at marine shop across from the Brit MC dealer on Powell St.
Last year I scored a great deal on semi synth oil and a new helmet at Kreator in Kelowna. I bought 8 litres of Semi Synth Castrol 20/50 m/c oil and anew flip front helmet for roughly $88 taxes in. The lid was 75% off and they took and additional 75% off at the till! The oil was $5 litre.
I couldn't get out of there fast enough as I was sure they had f'ed up.
The lid was about $40 pre tax and regular price I think was $175? I even questioned her, as I fear karma. Nope, that was the price: 75% off and another 75% at the till.
The oil was a smoking deal. I cleaned him out. If he'd more than 8 I would've taken them all. The clutch in the Triumph can be picky too but so far it likes this oil.
You have to jump on these "calculating errors". I once showed up at a garage warehouse of a retiring ELF dealer in Vancouver. I bought 16- 12 litre cases of oil at his asking price of $3.90/litre, for ELF 15w-50 full synthetic JASO MA/APIspec SG bike oil. Sold 75% of it on Craig's for 10$/litre. Didn't have to buy any for 5 yrs.
Just ordered a case (4, 4 litre jugs) of my fave oil for $7.60 litre from my local PetroCan bulk dealer.
Duron E Synthetic 10/40. Classified as "suitable" for JasoMa.
Still a good bang for the buck, high spec 10/40
I've been using Duron oils for about 10 years in a variety of bikes. I think every bike I've owned called for 10/40.
With new oil threads being locked out so quickly, I figured there must be ones on here that are not locked. With the information people are looking for?
I just bought a 97 Kawasaki ZX9R and did my first oil change as well as changed the sparkplugs. I am an automotive mechanic and I get to use my shop discount to get oil. I used Lucas 20W50 Full Synthetic oil and Iridium Spark plugs. I got the oil for $10/Ltr. as opposed to $18/ltr at Canadian Tire. For $40 I'm gonna stick to Lucas Synthetic. Haven't noticed any difference in performance but it's not for me to notice, the oils for the engine.
So I just bought 4.4l of Mobil 1 0W20 Full synthetic. The oil seems to be more pricey than the rest $48. Then I checked the US Wallmart and its $24.97 for 5 quarts. Any thoughts. Am I missing something because I'm thinking I need to return this and make an early trip to Bellingham.
So I just bought 4.4l of Mobil 1 0W20 Full synthetic. The oil seems to be more pricey than the rest $48. Then I checked the US Wallmart and its $24.97 for 5 quarts. Any thoughts. Am I missing something because I'm thinking I need to return this and make an early trip to Bellingham.
Yeah, I hope this is for your car. 0W20 definitely has friction modifier additives, not good at all for wet clutches in bikes. And, IMO, 10W40 is the absolute minimum viscosity I'd ever put in a motorcycle engine.
Assuming you have a wet clutch, make sure the oil is rated for such and does NOT have the friction modifiers.
I just replaced a clutch recently and think that's exactly what caused it to burn out......car oil.
All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles that specify the JASO-MB specification. If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, We recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle.
I'm going to put this thread in the "BIG OIL THREAD", where it belongs, but if you wanted an inexpensive oil, synthetic,
which is available in the US Walmarts, but also on competitively when on sale at Canadian Tire, and extremely proven
in motorcycles, the Shell Rotella T6, 5/40 is around the same price:
Actually this refers to the BlacKBird but maybe all Hondas. The Brits swear by no full synthetic in the Bird. My closest friend rides a Bird and is blowing a bit of blue smoke. The local tech said its cause of full synthetic. I call BS. Have any Honda riders encountered an official bulletin from Honda re Synthetic Oil in their bike?
Actually this refers to the BlacKBird but maybe all Hondas. The Brits swear by no full synthetic in the Bird. My closest friend rides a Bird and is blowing a bit of blue smoke. The local tech said its cause of full synthetic. I call BS. Have any Honda riders encountered an official bulletin from Honda re Synthetic Oil in their bike?
my old man has run synthetic on his VTX1800, it should be mentioned he had an issue with the starter clutch go bad but it seems
to be pretty common on that model as i found similar threads online and most of them had not run anything but semi synth or oem oil..
i've got several friends who have owned different bikes from honda and yamaha and they always run T6 Rotella Shell Synthetic heavy duty 5w40, it is tested and certified JASOMA & JASOMA2..
i have used it all season on my R1 and im very happy with it... this winter oil change on both VTX1800 Trike & R1 will see Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic :coffee
i ran MOtul 5100 last year and i hated the gear-shifts, very clunky and far from smooth i did not like it one bit, specially considering what the bloody stuff costs..
i ran Amsoil synthetic b4 but its too damn expensive... i didnt have any negative experiences with it though...
not the case on the R1, heard the same thing from others who have tried it... smoothest shifting i get is with T6... not even Amsoil can touch that shite....
Im going to have tro give this a try ext season, My r6 shifts not too bad, but could be a bit nicer...
But its more likely to be worn out gearbox, Its an older R6
ditto for the CB1000R. however, I use Motul 5100: no issues, zero consumption, smooth shifts and light clutch...
the manual also specifies 12,000 km oil change intervals, but I just can't bring myself to run it that long, so I do 8000's.
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